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illustrent  la  mdthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

01 


Afloat  on  the  Pacific, 


OB 


NOTES  OF 


THREE  YEARS  LIFE  AT  SEA, 


rOMPHlSINU    SKKT(;ili;»    OK   I'KOl'LIO,    I'LACKS,    AND   THINGS 
''T.^N(/Tll..;..AC.K..COASTANI)AM0N0n.K^ 

1'0LYN!<:SIA.  VISITKD  DUIIINO  SKVKHAI,  V  OYAGLS 
OF  Tllli  U.  S.  8    LANCASTKB  AND  SABANAC. 


BY  W.  P.  MARSH  ALL, 


w 


•■  What   he\H  I  of  the    (lusty  lane! 

And  noisy  town  ? 
I  see  the  mighty  deep  expand 
From  its  white  line  of  glimmering  sand 

To  where  the  blue  of  heaven  on  bluer  waves  shuts  down. 

J.  G.  V'^     I'TIEH. 


ZANESVILLE,  0. 

3ULLIYJIJT   6-   CB^HUOJiS. 

1876. 


Entered  according  to  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1876, 
BY  THK   AIITIIUU, 
in  the  office  ol  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  nt  Washingto.i 


PREFATORY. 


|0R  those  wlio  delight  in  tales  of  the  marvelous, 
j  the  ocean  is  full  of  suggestion  ;  but  however  en- 
tertaining such  stories  may  be  for  those  whose 
niiufls  require  a  strictly  sensational  diet,  I  have  chosen 
to  write  for  that  class  who  prefer  facts  to  fiction,  and 
a  "plain  unvarnished  tale"  to  the  creations  of  im- 
agination.   The  sea  may  be  considered  a  trite  sub- 
ject by  some;  but  to  the  lover  of  nature  ils  sublimity 
never  becomes  commonplace.     Its  vastness  and  its 
vicissitudes,  its  solitary  grandeur  and  its  stern  reali- 
ties of  danger,  combine  to  invest  it  with  iutereat ;  and 
for  those  who  have  been  long  tossed  on  its  waves  and 
spent  their   years   in  familiarity   with    its   varying 
moods,  there  is  an  indescribable  charm  about  it  and 
its  incidents  which  will  amply  apologize  for  these 
sketches 

Keeping  in  view  the  excellence  of  truth  in  narra- 
tives of  this  kind,  I  have  endeavored  to  present  only 
facts,  and  make  my  pictures  true  to  nature. 

THE  AUTHOK. 


ii 


■t-i 


'<v: 


CONTENTS. 


la 


C'HAI'TKH  T. 

Voyage  to  Aspinwall— Kir8t  view  of  the  Ocean— Sea  sickness— Fellow 
Fussengers— Canary  Bird  Concerts— Landsmen  and  8ailors— a  Preach- 
er, Actor,  and  the  "Dejcctecl  Lover*'— Among  the  West  Indies.  Page,  9 

(;HAPTKKII. 

Aspinwall— Crossing  the  Isthmus— Former  population- Panama— Em- 
barking in  the  night , 18 

CHAPTER    HI. 

New  Surroundings— Old  Panama  and  Early  Days- Washing  Decks— The 
Crew— Spanish  Americans— A  Guacho— Rainy  Season ; 21 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Life  on  Board— The  St.  Mary's  and  Cyane— Look  out  for  Torpedoes— At- 
tempt to  Captures  Mail  Steamer,  by  Rebels— A  Porthole  Landscape.  31 

CHAPTER  V. 

Preparations  for  Departure-The  "Dejected  Lover"  again— "iff  to  the 
Southward— Island  of  Ouibo— A  retrospect  from  the  Bowspiit  at  Sea— 
ASoft-Warm  Rains— .V  Calm    near  the  "Line"— Payta— Incident  of 

Z    Anson's  •  Islt- Otf  again ; l 36 


■  I'- 


CHAPTKR  VI. 

The  Andes-Arrive  at  Callao— The  Bay— Peruvian,  English  and  French 
Ships  of  War— A  visit  from  the  Peruvian  Admiral— Visit  from  the 
Prenident  of  Pern— Arrival  of  the  Spanish  Fleet— Visit  from  Spanish 
Admiral  .\  Sprigof  Royalty— Fruits,  *c.,— Climate  —  Idling— Natives 
of  Peru  Midnight  Welcome  to  the  New  Year— Anchored  over  a  ('ity— 
Diving  in  an  Iron  Boat— A  Peruvian  Serenade- The  Sandwich  Island 
Minister— The  old  F.redonla  and  her  Fate l.l 


•vft 


m 


p 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


fUAI'TKIt  VII. 

Offforl'iinama    Hiii'iiilutSeA-  I'liiiaiiiii    Viiit  Doiid  Mnn's  Twluml    "Dad  " 
—Old    WuIIh    (IliiiibiiiK    th<>    Utu-kM     iKHHiiaH    Vi<'W    Iroin  l)i(i  tup 
Lonely  Graves- "Toboga  Bill"  and    SliarkH    A  Hpetdnien    itovolntion 
--<»IT  for  Acapiilco :>;t 

CHAI'TKR  VIII. 

Flying  IImIi,  >"liales,  TnrtlcM,  Ac.  -Boboa  -Hi>n  (JmIIh  Arrival  at  Acapiil- 
co Town  and  Harbor  Coniinerca  TrHnHlbrri'd  New  QnarlcrH  Viiiit 
ashore  Mexican  SoldinrH-IIonscH  CIiniclieH  Sliop8  Streets  Water 
(.'arriors  -  A  runtrast    News  or  tlio  I>eatli  of  Lincoln  ivj 

on  APT  Kit  IX. 

Trip  to  Itio  Diilce  An  Krtoape- Shore  and  People -Cat  KiHliIng  at  Sea  Red 
l""i»h  and  Moon  Kish -Shark  Kisliing  Shark's  Tenacity  of  Ijife  Kr- 
turn tlH 

C'UAI'TKIl  X. 
(.'omtnerce  of  the  Spanish  Oalleons 71 

CHAFTKB  XI. 

Sleeping— My  Oncnpations—Aniatenr  Theatricals— Actor  and  Artist -Ban- 
ditti ashore  -Two  Slight  Adventtireu T.* 

CIIAI'TKIl  XII. 

Off  on  a  Cruise  for  the  Shenandoah— Ofl"  I't.  (Conception— The  Golden  tJate 
-Mare  Island  -Old  Ships  ( >fl'  to  Sea  A  Storm  Ksqninialt,  V.  I.  -  Klat 
Uead  liniians -Coaling -A  Tragedy- OtV  for  the  .Sandwich  Islands 
— .V  Tempest  Kair  Weather  .\gain-  Visit  of  a  Blue  bird  in  Mid- 
Ocean  A  Floating  Spar-Water-Sponts -First  View  of  the  Sand- 
wiches    ■'<•'« 

ClIAl'TKR  XIII. 

Appearance  of  Oahii— News  of  the  Shenandoah,  -  Off  for  the  Mar(jnesas— 
Iloadwiods  and  Sfinalls— Fate  of  the  Levant  Crossing  the  "Line"  — 
Ocean  Scenes-  Nnkahiva  Bay,  ManmcHas  Islands  t'annllmls— Catho- 
lic Missiouaries-  Com.  Porter  and  the  Kssex  Scenery  of  Nnkahiva 
Bay I'.i 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Dp  AnchorandofT  for  Tahiti -Low  Arrhlpelago-  Appe>iranco  of  Tahiti- 
Its  Beanty-Papiete— Coral  Reef  and  Transparency  ol  ihe  Water- 
View  from  the  Anchorage— Fruits  and  Shells— Moonlight  Dances 
aboard— Barque  Glimpse— French  Soldiers  -  The  Deserted  Wife— Ma- 
tavia  Bay— Contrast  with  the  Past  The  day  of  <.'aptain  Wallis'  Arrival 
—To  Honolulu lOl 


CONTKNTS. 


Vll 


cn.M'TKU  XV.  ^ 

lliiiiolnlii  l''«li  l^rccipicf  —  A  Uiilciip  tli«  MoiiDliiin  -  Ktirnior  ('imtoiiinry 
.Xiiliitiitioii  Hoyiil  Itdiiil  A  Hnwi-ry— I'liiiiitivf  I, ivcry  Stable  l'luc«8 
ut  liiicrcHt  l''ii(iiru  of  lliiwitii  SiiKar  IVdiliictiuii  CliiricHc  UfHtaiir- 
uiit  Cliiti'iitUtsr  ol°  tliu  NiillVfri  KHiiiikii  MailurH  Kuw  FiHh  iiiiil  I'oi  — 
Kev.  S.  <),  DiiiiKiii  -MiHsioimry  KITortH -DtnTuuMe  of  I'opiiliitinn-  I)e- 
pai  tiiru    A  \Vliiilo  Ship  in  Di8tri'»» lO'.i 

fllAI'TKU    XVI. 

VojHKi' ili'wn  tlitf  CoHHt  li.i  I'll/,  I'l-url  I'lvoi'H -Turtle- liiidicruiiH  Inoi- 
iluiit  (liiayiiius -A  Nurrow  Khcuih'  Fruits.  KIhIi  Ac.,-  J'elicans  Mii/,- 
uIIhii     1)(i^'h  lli-i)(t  rriiuKiutiiry     Witter  SpciutM  at  Soa -AcitpulcoHKain 

-  i^liock  ut' Hii  KitrtliiiuakH  at  night  - 'I'lie  Kxileil  I'rcHidunt— An  Aitil- 
Icry  Kxt-rcine  Sailiir»'  ritiiitiiui'niM  to  nbtain  Spirits  An  old  Tar's 
MKlxid  ot  (iftting  Drunk  II.  It.  M .  TtilUmaii  Tlio  IMiosphoroHi-ent 
Sea-  Back  to  Ma/Htlan-off  for  (iuaynmH— Ship  a  Sea -Keturii  to  San 
KraiicUco lai 

(.'IIAI'TKR  XVII. 

A  Mutiny  (»tT  to  Sea  Sea-sick  In  a  Gale  -The  Mouth  ot  the  C'limul'ia 
llivor— I'ort  Angulos  A  Trauedy  at  SealtlH-Olyrnpia  l>riuk  of  Kero- 
sene t»il -Scenery  of  the  Sound    The  "Noble  Ued  Man"-  Matrimoniiil 

-  Naniiinio,  V.  I.- llellinghani  Itay     Solitude    Return 1,'il 

CHAl'TKB  XVI II. 

Cruise  Southward -Sea  Gull's  Power  of  Flight— Artillery  Fight— Terrific 
Stoi  hi  at  Night  A  Narrow  Kscapo  —  Mazatlan— In  Retlrenie,it— An 
Hceiin  llerniitago  December  Weather  in  the  Gulf— Return  to  Saa 
Francisco— Cyaiie  and  Yellow  Fever Ill 

(  HAI'TFR  XIX. 

Monterey-  Whale  Fishing  In  the  Hay— .\  Dance  on  the  Quarter-deck  — 
"IJreakdown"  at  Sea -French  Fleet  at  Mazatlan— (lur  Snarleyow— He 
greets  an  .Vdniirai— Visit  of  (ien.  Martii.o/.--Down  to  Acapulco 116 

<  IIAI'TKR  XX. 

Firnt  Lesson  in  Mexicin  Military  Discipline -Visit  to  the  Castillo  de  San- 
tiago—ReH-'Ctions— Second  Lessou  in  Military  Discipline I.'')2 


'i\ 


4)1 


\-  \t 


CHAl'TKR  XXI. 

Down  the  ('oH8t— Gulf  of  Foiiseca- Volcano  of  l^oseguina- La  I'nlon-Visit 
of  General  Alejandro  Cabreroand  Priests— San  Juan  del  Sur— Louis 
iind  his  Filllbu:<tering  with  Walker  -Punta  Arenas- Panama  again— 
Vellow  Fever  and  Cholera— dn  Shore— Various  places  in  the  Town  — 
"Dug  Out"  Voyagers  from  the  Southward- Old  Walls— Off  for  Roalejo 
lleturu  Voyage 137 


p: 


Viii  CONTENTS.  " 

CIIAI'TKIl  XXI f. 

RiJcl'llltliiK  -Till'  'I'wo  KiiuiiiIhh  TIio  Two  Tl'HtfoilittH  KilliiiK  Tliiiit  Mlko 
<'.--iliH  Ailvniliirc  Tliu  City  Msilor'ri  Attt-nipt  to  lOhruiH-  ltiirniiii{ 
of  tliti   Ship  Uliiukwull    A    NitrrHtlvu  of    t^utlciiiiK  uiiil   llnriur     Km- 

cn|K it>a 

CIIAI'TKK  XXill. 

'I'hc  Ii88t  <'niln«)  (Joud-liyo  to  richlliogiie  Buy -Hloriny  Vi :  ;'jo— IIoiiip- 
wurd  UuuuU  -111  a(  tliu  Goldt'ii  Uuiu 173 

ILLUSTRATIONS. 

A  CoKAii  Rekk, Frontispiece 

Mid-Ocean  Scene, Fating  Page  41 

First  Arrival  op  the  Dolphik, "        "      105 

Kamluameua, "     117 


AFLOAT  ON  THE  PACIFIC. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Toyage  to  Aspinwall.— First  view  of  tho  Ocean.-  Soa  sickness.— Follow 
Pusstngurs— Canary  Bird  Concerts— Landsmen  and  Sailors— a  I'reacli- 
er,  A,^tor,and  the  "Dejected  Lover"-Aniong  the  West  Indies. 

|N  October,  1864,  a  detachment  of  officers  and 
men,  including  the  writer,  .sailed  from  New 
York  to  join  the  Pacific  .squadron.  We  left  the 
wharf  at  one  o'clock  P.  M.,  aboard  the  Pacific  JNIail 
Steamship  Costa  Rica,  and  got  fairly  to  sea  before 
night. 

As  this  was  my  first  voyage,  and  indeed  my  first 
view  of  the  ocean,  I  felt  most  vividly  those  impres- 
sions of  its  {i^raud  sublimity  which  authors  have  so 
often  in  vain  aitempted  to  describe.  It  would  l)e  use- 
less to  try  to  convey,  by  any  attemi)t  at  exact  descrip- 
tion, the  miugled  sentiments  and  emotions  that  crowd 
upon  the  mind  at  such  a  time ;  and  I  could  not,  if 
I  wished,  recall  all  the  thoughts  that  came  and  went, 
as  our  steamer  plunged  along,  farther  and  farther 
from  the  land  that  gradually  faded  from  view  in  the 


m, 


10 


A   FIRST   VOYAGE. 


distance  and  the  gathering  gloom  of  night.  There 
are  often  experiences  in  our  lives,  which  for  their  ad- 
equate portrayal,  demand  a  more  perfect  language 
than  any  with  which,  in  this  life,  mortals  are  endow- 
ed ;  and  among  those  experiences  may  be  counted  a 
sudden  introduction  to  the  "vasty  deep,"  in  its  awful 
and  solitary  grandeur. 

A  first  voyage,  under  any  circumstances,  has  in  it 
much  that  is  indescribable.  You  may  read  voyages 
and  study  the  descriptions  given  by  travelers  of  their 
sensations  and  impressions,  as  much  as  you  will,  and 
after  all  you  will  form  but  an  indistinct  idea  of  the 
reality.  There  is  a  strange  novelty  in  the  transfer 
from  terra  firma  to  the  uncertainty  of  your  footing  on 
the  unstable  liquid  element,  that  makes  you  feel  as  if 
you  had,  body  and  soul,  entered  upon  a  new  state  of 
existence.  You  are  isolated,  not  only  from  friends 
and  familiar  places  and  scenes,  but  from  that  life-long 
unconscious  experience  of  solid  land,  which  has  almost 
become  a  part  of  yourself  The  ocean  reminds  you 
often  and  forcibly  of  Eternity.  The  conditions  of 
existence  are  different  from  those  on  land,  the  vast- 
ness  of  the  wide  expanse  of  waters  suggests  the  infin- 
itude of  the  future  beyond  life,  and  the  mind  in  eith- 
er case  is  bewildered  by  the  inconceivable. 

I  spent  the  first  hours  on  deck,  absorbed  in  the 
view.  Looking  out  over  the  white-capped  \  avelets 
gleaming  in  the  moonlight,  I  tried  to  take  into  con- 
ception the  vastness  of  my  new  acquaintance, — the 
grand  old  ocean.  In  my  imagination,  at  times,  it 
seemed  endowed  with  a  personality  of  might  and 


n 


ii 


SEASICK  NEyS. 


11 


grandeur,  so  over-powerin<r  iu  effect,  that  I  easily  un- 
derstood how  natural  it  has  been  for  the  unenli<rht- 
ened  mind  to  deify  the  elements.  At  times  swift 
fancy  carried  me  away  over  the  wide  waters  to  the 
strange  things — the  productions  and  the  people  of  the 
countries  beyond.  In  ray  school-days,  yet  fresh  in 
memory,  geography  and  books  of  travel  had  been 
a  never-failing  delight ;  and  now  I  felt  a  more  ab- 
sorbing interest  in  the  great  highway  of  waters,  that 
reached  to  every  land,  and  washed  the  shores  of  many 
nations. 

I  forgot  my  supper  in  the  contemplation,  and  in  the 
enjoyment  of  new  thoughts  and  feelings  might  have 
forgotten  my  own  existence,  had  I  not  been  reminded 
of  it  by  an  occasional  pitch  of  the  vessel  which  caused 
an  unpleasant  sensation.  Thus  warned  to  retire,  I 
sought  my  bunk,  and  after  long  lying  awake  and 
listening  to  the  measured  thump  of  the  engines  and 
the  splash  of  the  waves  against  the  sides,  I  fell 
asleep. 

In  the  morning  the  air  was  chilly  and  the  skies 
gloomy.  The  wind  blew  freshly,  an  I  there  was 
enough  sea  running  to  induce  a  pretty  general  attack 
of  seasickness  among  the  passengers.  I,  for  my  part, 
suffered  but  little,  and  only  from  nausea ;  enough, 
however,  to  make  me  sympathize  with  my  less  fortunate 
fellow  passengers.  The  pathology  of  seasickness  is  not 
I  believe,  yet  settled  beyond  dispute  among  physicians. 
The  feeling  seems  near  akin  to  the  narcotic  effects  of  cer- 
tain drugs — nicotine  more  especially.  Nearly  all  are 
effected  by  it  at  first,  but  by  habit  generally  become 


'ill 


i    ■! 


■  U 


! 

I 

;;; 

I 


12 


PASSENGERS. 


80  accustomed  to  the  conditions  thai  produce  it,  as  to 
suft^ir  little  or  no  inconvenience.  The  same  may  be 
said  of  the  use  of  tobacco.  Might  not  the  strange 
attachment  of  old  sailors  to  a  life  on  the  ocean,  and 
their  restlessness  when  on  shore,  be  due  to  physiolog- 
ical effects  of  the  ship's  motion,  so  long  continued  as 
to  resemble  the  effects  produced  by  a  habitual  use  of 
the  weed? 

We  had  eight  or  nine  hundred  passengers  on  board, 
the  majority  of  whom  were  emigrants  to  California, 
and  returning  Californians.  They  were  a  varied  and 
interesting  assemblage ;  and  as  we  gradually  got  into 
warmer  latitudes,  the  scene  from  day  to  day,  became 
more  and  more  animated,  as  the  crowds  recovering 
from  seasickness  came  on  deck.  There  were  groups  of 
families  and  friends  talking  of  their  prospects  in  the 
future,  or  adventures  in  the  past;  fathers  and  sons, 
matrons  and  daughters,  young  mothers  and  children, 
foreigners  and  adventurers,  people  of  varied  grades  of 
intelligence  and  refinement,  and  some  apparently  of  no 
grade,  all  mingling  in  a  chattering  confusion  of  voices 
tiud  nationalities.  There  was  a  New  England  lady 
with  her  three  pretty  daughters,  going  to  Oregon  to 
join  her  lmsl)aud,  whom  she  had  not  seen  for  thirteen 
years  ;  and  a  number  of  German  families  with  child- 
ren, seekiug  a  home  in  the  laud  of  gold.  Here  and 
there  you  might  see  a  young  man  whose  actions  and 
appearance  showed  that  he  had  left  the  simple  com- 
forts of  some  rural  home  to  struggle  with  an  unknown 
world  for  better  fortunes,  or  in  search  of  adventures. 


LANDSMEN. 


13 


A  little  German  had  several  hundred  canary  birds, 
which  hp  had  brought  from  Europe,  and  was  taking 
to  California  in  small  cages.  Their  concerts  were  de- 
lightful in  the  mornings  when  the  sun  shone  out,  and 
the  wind  and  spray  did  not  silence  their  cheery  music. 
The  voyage  was  very  severe  on  them  however,  and 
they  died  off  at  a  rapid  rate.  The  sick  and  down- 
cast birds  looked  very  melancholy  indeed,  but  the 
others  sang  merrily,  as  if  to  raise  the  drooping  spirits 
of  their  unfortunate  companions.  Their  owner,  a  ca- 
nary bird  importer,  said  that  a  large  proportion  of 
them  usually  died  on  the  long  voyage,  but  the  num- 
ber that  survived  made  the  trade  profitable.  They 
were  the  most  entertaining  company  on  board,  and  I 
was  sorry  to  part  company  with  them  at  the  Isth- 
mus. 

Among  the  men  of  the  detachment  many  were  odd 
and  original  characters.  During  the  war  a  large 
number  of  men  were  shipped  for  service  in  the  navy, 
of  whom  a  great  many  had  never  been  to  sea.  Such 
men  were  rated  as  "landsmen."  After  some  progress 
has  been  made  in  seamanship,  they  may  be  promoted 
to  the  rate  of  "ordinary  seamen,"  which  is  still  be- 
low the  rate  of  "seamen,"  to  which  they  can- 
not aspire  until  they  are  supposed  to  have  learned  the 
duties  of  a  sailor. 

Of  course  the  landsman  is  out  of  his  element,  and 
has  a  hard  time  of  it.  If  he  makes  mistakes,  as  he 
will  do,  he  is  jeered  and  jibed,  and  if  he  does  not 
readily  take  to  his  disagreeable  occupation,  he  is  made 
to  feel  his  degradation,  in  being  two  degrees  at  least, 


I  ■ 


:l 


I'  , 


14 


CHARACTERS. 


beneath  the  sailor  whom  he  perhaps  on  shore  has  al- 
ways been  accustomed  to  regard  as  a  poor  unfortunate 
creature,  fit  only  for  the  life  he  leads.  Our  detach- 
ment was  composed  mostly  of  landsmen. 

Among  others,  there  was  a  rural  preacher  from 
one  of  the  western  counties  of  New  York.  He  was 
a  middle-aged  man  of  very  moderate  attainments, 
such  a  man  as  you  might  find  in  any  of  the  sparsely 
settled  districts  of  the  Western  States.  In  his  sailor 
dress  and  cap,  awkwardly  worn  of  course,  he  present- 
ed no  very  imposing  appearance;  and,  though  gener- 
ally treated  with  some  respect,  he  was  nevertheless  the 
butt  of  maijy  a  rude  jest,  and  often  heard  very  discon- 
certing allusions  made  to  his  former  calling  and 
present  position.  He  made  several  attempts  to  preach 
but  gave  up  at  last  in  despair.  His  homely  phrase, 
and  cold,  stereotyped  manner  of  delivery  were  illy 
suited  to  this  new  sphere.  Doul)tless  he  was  a  very 
good  man,  but  he  seemed  lost  and  bewildered  hj  his 
strange  surroundings. 

Then  there  was  a  stage  struck  actor,  a  long,  light 
haired  and  moustached  individual,  who  never  under 
any  circumstances  spoke  in  a  natural  tone.  He  de- 
livered his  commonest  remarks  in  a  tragic  key.  His 
bearing  was  stitt'  and  formal,  and  he  seemed  to  l)e 
laboring  under  the  great  responsibility  of  his  high 
position  as  an  exponent  of  dramatic  dignity  and  maj- 
esty.    He  had  shipped  as  a  landsman. 

I  must  not  omit  our  "dejected  lover,"  or  the  process 
by  which  he  came  to  be  such.  A  young  man  named 
George  C ,  an  affected  fellow,  an  aggravated  case 


A   PROPOSAL. 


16 


•of  dime-novel  sentimentalism,  trained  to  an  idle  life, 
;and  well  read  in  "yellow-covered  literature,"  made 
himself  ridiculous  in  everything  he  did.  Among 
other  preposterous  things,  he  fell  in  love  with  one  of 
the  New  England  girls,  and  asked  her  mother  for 
her,  in  the  presence  of  several  other  persons.  He 
told  her  that  his  happiness  depended  upon  it ;  that  he 
worshiped  the  ground  she  walked  on;  and  finally,  he 
.  added  that  his  "own  mother  had  always  said  he  would 
make  a  good  husband,  because  he  Avas  so  fond  of 
children."  Such  an  argument  could  but  have  its 
Aveight  with  his  fondly-anticipated  mother-in-law,  and 
as  he  had  not  yet  "told  his  love"  to  the  girl  herself, 
the  amused  matron  gravely  referred  him  to  her. 
With  such  apparent  encouragement  from  such  a 
source,  he  repaired  at  once  to  where  she  was  standing, 
surrounded  by  several  other  less  enterprising  admir- 
ers, all  unsuspecting  the  honor  intended.  He  ap- 
proached with  eager  haste,  and  then  and  there  bespoke 
her  hand  and  heart,  adding,  in  order  as  he  thought, 
to  settle  any  slight  objections  that  her  maidenly  mod- 
esty might  interpose  to  such  a  festive  proceeding,  that 
"her  mother  herself  had  just  told  him  to  ask  her." 
Her  surprise  and  indignation  can  better  be  imagined 
.than  described.  "Wliat!  Marry  such  a  thing  as 
you !"  she  exclaimed,  and  then  went  below  crying  over 
the  vexation.  Her  discomposure  was  not  very  lasting 
however,  and  she  soon  recovered  gayety  and  spirits, 
but  it  was  a  long  time  before  C 's  notable  qualifi- 
cations as  a  husband  ceased  to  be  canvassed  and  dis- 
cussed by  his  jeering  and  relentless  comrades.     His 


16 


AMONG   THE  WEST   INDIES. 


younger  brother,  who  had  shipped  with  him,  gave  it. 
ae  his  opinion  that  "George  was  a  dog-goned  fool,  and 
hadn't  the  sense  he  was  born  with,"  which  sage  con- 
clusion placed  him  higher  in  the  estimation  of  his 
sailor  friend'j. 

We  had  several  intelligent  and  educated  young 
men  aboard,  who  were  agreeable  companions,  and 
helped  much  to  dissipate  the  tedium  of  many  a  leis- 
ure hour. 

On  the  sixth  day  out,  we  passed  Great  Inagua,  one 
of  the  Bahamas,  and  several  smaller  islands.  At 
one  of  these  noted  for  its  salt  manufacture,  we  left 
their  mail,  without  stopping,  by  throwing  it  overboard 
to  a  boat  that  came  off  to  get  it. 

The  weather,  instead  of  being  cold  and  disagreea- 
ble, as  when  we  left  New  York,  wrb  now  fine  and 
pleasant,  permitting  us  to  pass  much  of  the  time  on 
deck  with  the  awnings  spread. 

At  2  P.  M.,  we  ran  close  to  Cape  Maysi,  the  east 
end  of  Cuba,  on  our  way  through  the  Windward  Pas- 
sage. The  eastern  headlands  of  Cuba  appear  bluff 
and  precipitous,  but  still  beautiful  in  the  distance  over 
the  smooth  and  gently  swelliug  sea,  as  when  Colum- 
bus on  his  first  voyage  sailed  by  and  named  this  same 
point  of  land  Alpha  and  Omega,  supposing  it  the 
extreme  point  of  Asia.  Poor  Columbus!  How  pa- 
thetic is  his  whole  history  He  died  in  the  firm  con- 
viction that  this  Southern  Sea  was  the  Indian  Ocean,, 
and  that  the  land  he  had  visited  belonged  to  the  Eas- 
tern boundary  of  Asia.  It  is  sad  that  the  old  hero  when 
he  felt  age  creeping  on  him  with  poverty,  afflictions 


THE  CARIBBEAN. 


IT 


and  disappointments,  could  not  foresee,  as  our  classic- 
al Irving  says,  "the  splendid  empires  which  were  to- 
spread  over  the  beautiful  world  he  had  discovered  p 
and  the  nations,  and  tongues,  and  languages  which 
were  to  fill  its  lands  with  his  renown,  and  to  revere 
and  bless  his  name  to  the  lastest  posterity." 

Hayti,  the  Hispaniola  of  Columbus,  that  beautiful 
but  unhappy  island,  lay  in  sight  on  the  left.  Therfr 
in  his  time  the  great  discoverer  met  bravely  the  di- 
versified fortunes  that  fell  to  his  lot.  Now  the  suc- 
cessful and  triumphant  explorer,  now  the  sad  victim 
of  malice  and  perfidy,  what  lights  and  shadows  in* 
strong  contrast  marked  his  career,  like  the  flitting 
clouds  and  sunshine,  very  dark  or  very  bright,  that 
scowl  or  smile  over  the  waters  that  surround  these- 
shores. 

The  next  day  we  saw  Jamaica  far  to  the  westward,, 
an  eminence  rising  out  of  the  sea  in  the  dim  distance^ 
It  sank  and  faded  from  view  as  the  steamer  held  od 
her  steady  way  over  the  smooth  undulations  of  the 
Caribbean.  Floating  sea  weeds,  the  flying-fish,  cloud* 
and  their  shadows  playing  over  the  glassy  waters- 
now  diversified  the  scene.  Anon  came  warm  showers- 
from  heavy  dark  clouds,  which  soon  passing  by,  left, 
the  sea  calm  again  in  the  bright  sunlight. 


■  I 


I!! 

■n 


mi 


;ii 


CHAPTER  II. 


M 


JispiDwall— Crossing  tin  Isthmus  — Former   population  —  Panama— Em- 
barking in  the  niglit. 

|E  reached  Aspinwall  at  2  P.  M.  on  the  ninth 
.^_  day  from  New  York.  While  waiting  for  the 
^^^»  transfer  of  passengers  and  baggage  to  the 
train  that  was  to  take  u  3  to  Panama,  I  had  an  op- 
portunity to  explore  the  town. 

A  long  row  of  houses  and  shops,  disposed  along 
the  beach' with  porticoes  facing  the  harbor,  comprise 
the  principal  street.  As  I  passed  along  I  noticed  in- 
tervals, apparently  intended  for  cross  streets,  which 
were  closed  at  a  short  distance  by  the  swamp  and  jun- 
gle. The  great  feature  of  the  place  is  the  large  num- 
ber of  wine  shops,  and  the  profuse  supply  of  various 
kinds  of  liquors  of  villainous  quality,  intended  for 
bibulous  passengers  arriving  in  the  mail  steamers. 
Its  name  was  given  in  honor  of  Wm.  H.  Aspinwall, 
one  of  the  pioneers  in  the  great  enterprise  which  con- 
nected the  two  oceans  by  a  railroad. 
•  The  people  here  are  mostly  blacks,  many  of  them 
being  free  negroes  from  Jamaica,  who  have  a  pecul- 
iar manner  of  speaking  English.  The  natives  speak 
the  Spanish  language,  and  are  a  mixed  race,  being 
descendants  of  Spaniards,  Portuguese,  Italians,  and 
other  Europeans,  and  the  aboriginal  Indians,  They 
engage  in  fruit  selling  and  trade,  when  passengers  are 


NATIVES   AND   SCENERY. 


If 


here,  but  after  they  are  gone,  and  while  waiting  for 
the  arrival  of  another  steamer,  their  principal  occu- 
pation is,  I  presume,  the  dolce  far  niente  of  tropical 
loafers. 

Toward  evening  the  train  started  for  Panama  with 
passengers,  mails,  and  fast  freight.  The  trip  across 
the  Isthmus  was  partly  by  day  and  partly  by  night. 
The  crowded  and  heavy  laden  train  ran  slowly,  and 
gave  us  a  good  opportunity  to  observe  the  scenery 
along  the  route.  Our  way  for  several  miles  lay 
through  the  miasma-breeding  swamps  and  marshes, 
which  hem  in  the  town  and  render  it  a  dank  and 
dreary  place  in  which  to  live.  Aquatic  plants,  palm, 
eedro  and  espabe  trees  covered  with  thick  vines  and 
parasitic  growths  abounded  in  great  profusion ;  and 
the  air  was  heavy  with  the  mingled  perfume  of  flow- 
ers and  the  miasma  of  the  raoras'*. 

Great  indeed  must  have  been  the  difficulties  to  be 
surmounted  in  the  construction  of  this  short  railway. 
The  climate,  always  inimical  to  the  unacclimated  un- 
der any  circumstances,  was  so  deadly  to  the  imported 
laborers  that  they  died  by  hundreds ;  yet  finally 
Yankee  energy  and  enterprise  triumphed  over  the 
obstacles  of  nature,  and  were  rewarded  with  success. 

Passing  Gatuu,  we  had  glimpses  of  the  stealthy 
Rio  Chagres,  creeping  silently,  serpent-like,  through 
vistas  of  tangled  vegetation.  It  is  a  small  stream, 
and  unworthy  to  be  called  a  river  at  this  season  of 
the  year.  That  dignity,  I  suppose  was  conferred  up- 
on it  by  the  lively  imagination  of  some  explorer  of 
the  Latin  race.     Had  an  Anglo-Saxon  chanced  first 


\ 


tl:i 


-nlU 


PW 


20 


THE  JUNGLES. 


lii 
III 


to  notice  and  deacribe  it,  we  should  have  heard  of  a. 
creek,  instead  of  a  flowing  river. 

As  we  emerged  from  the  swamp  lands,  the  tropical 
forests,  rich  with  verdure  and  flowers,  became  more 
interesting.  We  feasted  on  the  scenery  with  eager 
eyes.  To  us  it  was  glorious  because  it  was  tropical, 
and  in  a  laud  of  the  palm  tree.  Impenetrable  thick- 
ets or  jungles  hedged  the  way,  and  crowded  close  up- 
o"^  the  track.  From  these  masses  of  foliage  arose 
trees  overgrown  by  climbing  and  parasitic  plants, 
that  hung  and  swayed  from  the  upper  branches. 
The  swinging  festoons  suggested  boa-constrictors  and 
anacondas,  and  the  recesses  of  the  jungle  seemed  re- 
dolent of  the  terrors  of  fierce  reptiles  and  unknown 
creeping  things.  In  such  haunts  as  these  live  the 
jaguar  and  the  puma.  Amid  such  jungles  toiled 
and  trudged  Vasco  Nunez  de  Balboa,  to  discover  an 
ocean,  write  his  name  in  history,  and  die  a  cruel  and 
ignominious  death.  Here  Pizarro  marched  and 
suffered,  fought  and  prepared  himself  by  murderous 
practice  for  those  performances,  by  which  he  gained 
wealth  and  eternal  infamy  in  Peru.  But  the  day* 
for  such  deeds  are  happily  passed,  and  now  an  invoice 
of  sailors,  like  ourselves,  may  be  conveyed  front 
ocean  to  ocean  with  such  speed  and  comfort  as  Bal- 
boa and  Pizarro  never  dreamed  of,  to  have  their 
names  inscribed  on  no  higher  roll  of  fame  than  the 
ship's  books,  or  the  watch  bill. 

Though  this  country  is  low  very  sparsely  inhabited 
it  was  once  most  populous.  The  annals  of  the  Span- 
ish conquerers  and  the  early  colonists,  show  this  con- 


FORMER  POPULATION.  M 

clusively  ;  and  the  remains  of  great  empires  bear 
indubitable  testimony  to  the  fact  that  all  tropical 
America  was  once  teeming  with  myriads  of  human 
beings,  who,  in  the  unknown  past,  Riled  up  the  meas- 
ure of  their  lives  with  the  circumstances  of  a  great 
civilization.  The  historian  Arthur  Helps  estimates 
that  2,000,000  of  the  natives  of  this  same  isthmus 
perished  under  the  tyrannous  rule*  ot  one  Spanish 
governor  alone  ;  and  in  Central  America  and  Yuca- 
tan are  still  to  be  seen  the  crumbling  ruins  of  cities, 
temples  and  palaces  which  indicate  the  former  exist- 
ence of  powerful  empires  whose  lost  history  would  be 
more  intensely  interesting  to  us  than  all  records  of 
Greece  and  Rome. 

After  passing  Bujio  Soldauo  we  came  to  Buena 
Vlstita,  a  collection  of  rude  palm  thatched  huts  oc- 
cupied by  native  laborers.  The  dark,  half  Indian 
women  in  muslin  dresses,  and  naked  children,  stared 
at  us  as  we  passed.  Crossing  the  Rio  Chagres  at 
Barbacoa  by  a  splendid  wrought-iron  bridge,  over 
six  hundred  feet  long,  we  rattled  along  past  Gorgo- 
na,  San  Pablo,  Matachin,  and  other  stations,  without 
stopping.  Night  descended  upon  us  in  a  fine  luxuri- 
ant woodland  long  before  we  reached  the  vicinity  of 
Monument  Hill,  which  loomed  up  abruptly  against 
the  night-dimmed  sky. 

After  darkness  came  on,  there  was  little  to  be  seen. 
We  passed  several  hamlets  of  thatched  huts,  half 
hidden  in  the  thickets.  At  these  places  the  open 
sheds  where  liquors  were  dispensed  to  natives  or  pas- 
sengers, were  the  most  conspicuous  objects.    Their 


ill 


I 


,1 . 1 


§ 


mi 

.i 


i 


ilul' 


22 


ARRIVE    AT   PANAMA, 


li.   I 


glaring  torches  casta  lurid  li^^ht  that  made  the  dark- 
ness seem  still  darker,  and  revealed  in  bold  relief  the 
barbarous  looking  black  among  hisbottles,  ready  and 
eager,  like  some  genius  of  the  shades,  to  deal  out  the 
deadly  potions  of  the  Father  of  Darkness. 

About  nine  or  ten  o'clock  we  ran  into  the  depot  ad- 
joining the  Pacific  Mail  S.  8.  Company's  wharf  at 
Panama.  To  the  west,  and  on  our  right,  the  lii  its 
of  the  city  showed  its  position.  We  were  surround- 
ed in  the  spacious  building  by  a  motley  crowd  of  the 
natives,  and  a  guard  of  native  soldiers  who  were  on 
duty. 

Here  we  bade  adieu  to  our  friends  and  acquaint- 
ances of  the  voyage,  among  the  passengers.  As  large 
vessels  have  to  lie  at  a  considerable  distance  from 
shore,  on  account  of  shallow  water,  they  were  taken 
on  board  their  vessel  by  a  small  steamer  kept  here 
for  embarking  and  landing  freight  and  passengers. 

Preparations  were  at  once  made  to  take  our  detach- 
ment aboard  the  steam  frigate  Lancaster,  which,  ow- 
ing to  her  great  size,  lay  at  anchor  at  a  distance  of 
two  or  three  miles  om  the  city.  After  considerable 
delay,  we  were  conducted  out  of  the  building,  and  in 
darkness  were  embarked  on  a  lighter,  in  order  to  be 
towed  along-side.  Soon  the  puf^ng  of  an  engine 
ahead  and  the  motion  of  our  craft  convinced  us  that 
we  were  really  afloat  on  the  waters  of  the  Pacific, 
which  the  darkness  prevented  our  seeing.  It  was  so 
dark,  that  for  any  purpose  our  eyes  served  us,  we 
might  as  well  have  been  blindfolded,  until  we  drew 
near  the  ship.    We  were  crossing  the  fabled  Styx  to 


■ 


GETTING    ABOARD. 


m 


begin  a  new  and  unknown  life,  and  our  Charon,  a 
modern  tug-boat,  led  the  way,  torehless  and  unseen. 
As  Vie  approached  thu  majestic  vessel,  her  huge 
proportions  loomed  up  in  listiuctly  in  the  deep  obscu- 
rity of  the  night.  The  lights  shining  through  her 
numerous  ports  n(  /  gleamed  cheerily  over  the  water; 
the  shrill  calls  of  boatswains'  whistles,  and  their  or- 
ders passed  along  the  decks  in  peculiar  tones,  fell  ou 
our  ears  as  we  dropped  along  side;  lights  came  down 
the  gangway,  and  we  hurried  aboard  with  our  light 
baggage,  impatient  to  bo  on  the  decks  which  hence- 
forth for  a  time  we  were  to  consider  our  home. 


i 


1    <V:b 


i 


m 


mw 


CHAPTER  III. 

INew  Surroundings— Old  Panama  and  Early  Days— Washing  Decks— The 
Crew— Spanish  Americans— A  Guacho— Rainy  Season. 

|T  was  near  midnight  when  we  laid  down,  tired 
and  weary,  to  sleep  about  the  decks.  I  slept 
well  considering  the  novelty  and  strangeness  of 
everything  around,  and  ray  eagerness  to  inspect  our 
new  quarters.  Early  in  the  morning,  at  the  first 
break  of  day,  I  was  up,  and  being  already  dressed, 
went  on  deck. 

The  ship  was  a  large  screw  steamer,  ship  rigged, 
carrying  a  heavy  armament,  and  when  fully  manned, 
a  crew  of  four  or  five  hundred  men.  On  the  gun 
deck  were  twenty -six  heavy  guns,  mostly  of  eight 
inches  calibre,  and  on  the  spar-deck  were  two  eleven- 
inch  pivot  guns,  of  seven  and  a  half  tons  each.  One 
of  the.se  was  forward  of  the  foremast,  and  tlie  other 
abaft  the  raizzeu. 

Day  dUwned  at  length,  slowly  it  seemed  to  me,  and 
revealed  historic  surroundings,  the  scenes  of  famous 
exploits  of  the  conc^uerers,  of  buccaneers  and  bloody 
pirates.  The  city  in  the  distance,  the  wide  bay,  Dead- 
man's  Island  close  by,  and  a  few  vessels  at  anchor, 
comprised  the  principal  objects. 

The  theaters  where  great  events  have  been  per- 
formed are  not  always  remarkable  in  themselves,  and 


m 


OLD   PANAMA. 


25 


this  is  one  which  has  nothing  very  beautiful  or  strik- 
ing to  attract  the  beholder. 

Far  to  the  eastward,  along  the  shore,  appeared  a 
ruined  tower  of  some  description,  marking  the  site  of 
the  remains  of  the  old  city  of  Panama.  It  has  been 
deserted,  ever  since  the  days  of  the  buccaneers,  and 
long  given  up  to  the  solitude  of  the  jungle,  and  the 
society  of  reptiles, — a  fit  endiug  for  the  seat  of  so 
much  cruelty,  avarice  and  crime.  It  was  founded  in 
1515,  by  Pedrarias  Davila,  who  in  this  obscure  corner 
of  the  world  destroyed  more  men  than  Napoleon  in 
all  his  wars  destroyed  of  his  enemies.  Thence  Pi- 
zarro  sailed,  carrying  death  and  destruction  to  mil- 
lions of  unsuspecting  victims,  who,  heathen  as  they 
w'erc,  had  not  all  the  vices  of  those  conquerors  who 
came  to  them  with  perfidy  and  cruelty,  carrying  the 
emblems  of  Christ. 

The  warm  tr  pical  air  tempered  by  night,  and  the 
sea,  bathed  me  in  delicious  languor,  and  the  low  sound 
of  distant  waves  breaking  on  the  rocky  island,  the 
gentle,  almost  imperceptible  motion  of  the  ship  from 
the  swell,  the  quiet  which  reigned  aboard,  and  the 
many  new  and  strange  accessories  of  my  surrounding 
made  that  early  dawning  seem  like  the  breaking  of  a 
new  state  of  existence. 

My  sentimental  cogitations  were  soon  dispelled  by 
the  shrill  boatswains'  wdiittles,  calling  "up  all  hands," 
and  the  decks  put  on  an  appearance  of  bustle  and 
animation,  as  the  men  tumbled  up  from  below,  each 
carrying  his  hammock  "lashed"  in  regulation  style, 
to  be  stowed  away  for  the  day.     This  done,  pumps 


I 


:ilii 


■\'i\ 


I      :,l 


;l    H 


>    i 


i::i 


[•:i; 


26 


WASHING   DECKS. 


were  rigged,  buckets,  swabs,  and  mops  were  brought 
into  requisition,  and  the  decks  scrubbed  fore  and  aft, 
the  boats  cleaned  up,  and  the  brass  work  in  innumer- 
able places  and  shapes,  polished.  During  this  house- 
wife proceeding  so  unpleasant  to  the  landsman,  the 
old  sailors  paddled  about  in  the  warm  sea  water  which 
deluged  the  decks,  bare-footed,  and  with  trowsers  roll- 
ed up.  Many  of  the  newly  arrived  landsmen,  unused 
to  this  daily  scrubbing  and  polishing,  kept  their  shoes 
on,  and  dodged  hither  and  thither  to  avoid  the  water. 
To  the  great  .musemeut  of  the  old  salts,  they  depre- 
cated so  much  unnecessary  trouble  about  the  "floors" 
on  their  account,  when  they  were  already  so  clean. 
They  soon  learned  to  their  surprise  that  this  is  done 
every  day  before  breakfast,  which  is  always  at  eight 
o'clock. 

The  crew  was  composed  of  men  of  many  diflerent 
nationalities.  There  were  Irish,  English,  Scotch, 
German,  Portuguese,  South  Americans,  ^Mexicans, 
Sandwich  Islanders,  Kegroes,  and  others,  besides  that 
part  of  the  crew  which  belonged  to  the  United 
States.  A  number  of  the  latter  whose  time  had  expired 
departed  in  a  few  days  for  Xew  York,  leaving  us  to 
take  up  the  routine  of  duties,  which  to  them  had  been 
long  monotonous,  with  weary  waiting  for  tlie  end. 
Some  had  served  for  years  on  the  station,  and  for  them 
■  came  now  the  near  prospect  of  home  and  friends,  and 
those  associations  of  former  years  which  iiave  for 
all  alike,  high  or  low,  rich  or  poor,  such  irresistible 
attractions.  Our  arrival  filled  them  with  such  joy 
that  they  almost  overwhelmed  us  with  kind  attejutiwns. 


^ 


THE    CREW. 


27 


1| 


and  gave  some  of  us  au  exalted  opiDiou  of  the  amia- 
bility of  Jack  Tar.  Others  of  the  crev  had  beeu 
collected  at  different  poiuts  ol  the  coast,  from  San 
Francisco  to  Peru,  and  consequently  the  United 
States  was,  to  them,  a  foreign,  and  to  the  more  igno- 
rant,  an  unknown  country.  When  off  duty,  the  men 
to  some  extent,  grouped  themselves  according  to  their 
nationalities.  At  the  fore  hatch  on  the  upper  deck, 
just  forward  of  the  launches  which  were  on  board, 
you  could  hear  nothing  but  Spanish,  and  there 
one  might  easily  imagine  himself  on  board  a 
Spanish  ship  of  war.  These  men  from  different  parts 
of  Mexico,  Central  and  South  America,  were  called 
"Dagoes"  by  the  other  sailors,  and  very  much  despis- 
ed l)y  them.  Their  characters  were  various.  There 
■were  individuals  among  them  who  exhibited  in  their 
faces  and  features  all  the  evil  and  blood-thirsty  dis- 
positions that  animated  the  villianj,  wlio  under  Pi- 
zarro,  Davila,  and  their  compeers,  reveled  in  rapine 
and  murder.  Others  had  a  mild  banditti  look;  and 
some  few,  when  not  engrossed  in  gambling,  were  so- 
cial, polite  and  agreeable. 

.  To  me,  these  men  were  an  attraction.  I  knew  noth- 
ing then  of  their  language,  but  ardently  desired  to 
learn  it.  I  only  knew  that  they  wore  a  product  of 
those  countries,  and  tliat  their  habits  and  sentimejits 
would  illustrate  phases  of  life  and  social  conditions 
new  and  strange  to  me.  Accordingly,  I  cultivated  tlie 
acquaintance  of  the  least  repulsive  among  them,  and 
conciliated  all. 

Among  quite  a  number  who  had  shipped  at  Aca- 


''^{ 


l! 

i! 


» 


,  m 


tvw 


28 


CHARACTERS. 


Wi 


pulco,to  escape  the  conscription,  was  Ramon  Ayala,a 
slender  youth  who  seemed  to  have  had  some  educa- 
tion, and  claimed  to  have  been  a  custom-house  clerk. 
He  wrote  a  good  hand,  and  spoke  his  own  language 
apparently  after  the  manner  of  the  better  class,  but 
could  not  make  much  progress  in  English,  though  he 
tried  with  persfeverance.  He  undertook  to  teach  me 
Spanish  in  return  for  instruction  in  English,  and  I 
have  no  doubt  I  tortured  the  pure  Castilian  as  badly 
as  he  did  Webster's  vernacular.  Though  mutually 
instructed,  our  proficiency  in  the  study  of  languages 
was  in  no  wise  remarkable,  unless  it  was  for  slowness 
of  progress.  He,  for  his  part  was  cordially  opposed  to 
over  mental  exertion,  as  well  as  too  much  physical 
exercise.  Another  from  the  same  place  was  INlanuel 
Gordo,  or  fat  Manuel,  a  swarthy  descendent  of  Aztec 
and  Spanish  parentage.  He  was  always  jolly,  while 
the  slender  Ramon  seemed  to  be  continually  in  hot 
water,  growling  and  complaining  incessantly.  jNIan- 
uel  was  noted  principally  for  his  fondness  for  bad 
whisky  and  other  intoxicating  mixtures.  Francisco 
Vega,  a  native  of  Sousouate,  in  Central  America, 
was  a  calm,  quiet  and  lazy  individual,  much  addict, 
ed  to  gambling,  but  not  to  drink.  He  was  polite  and 
gentlemanly,  and  ardently  attached  to  his  native  coun- 
try. Though  large  and  muscular,  he  looked  the  pic- 
ture of  indolence. 

There  was  one  peculiar  character,  whose  name  I 
do  not  remember.  He  had  a  large  head,  square, 
heavy,  massive  jaws,  and  a  trunk  of  such  robust  frame 
as  to  indicate  unusual  and  very  great  physical  power. 


SOUTH   AMERICANS. 


29 


His  chest  was  full  and  very  large,  but  his  legs  small 
and  iusignificaut.  His  face  Avas  that  of  a  "Guacho" 
of  the  Pampas,  which  I  believe  he  was.  It  had  the 
stolid  and  wild  expressioQ  peculiar  to  that  class,  and 
was  remarkable  for  the  absence  of  any  sign  of  human, 
sympathy  or  feeling. 

There  was,  from  Peru,  a  large,  tall, fat,  swarthy  and 
savage  looking  wretch.  Sprung  in  all  probability  from 
debauchery,  nourished  in  filth,  and  brought  up  in  un- 
restrained indulgence  in  vice,  he  was  yet  implacable, 
revengeful,  proud,  and  easily  insulted.  He  was  of 
Indian  descent,  with  just  enough  Spanish  blood  to 
give  him  all  the  vices,  with  none  of  the  virtues,  of 
that  nationality.  He  afterwards  became  the  victim 
of  a  fatal  brawl,  during  our  visit  to  Pugets  Sound. 
There  were  several  others  of  a  similar  cast  of  char- 
acter, to  whom  the  excitement  of  murder  would  have 
been  an  agreeable  pastime.  If  individual  characters 
illustrate  the  conditions  of  their  production,  what 
barbarism  must  exist  in  some  parts  of  these  revolu- 
tionary countries. 

The  rainy  season  soon  set  in  and  we  had  tropical 
showers — rains,  in  the  fullest  and  freest  sense  of  the 
word.  There  seemed  to  be  r.o  cessation,  for  several 
■days  at  a  time,  in  the  steady  torrents.  Day  after  day 
and  week  after  week,  the  same  thing  over,  until  a  peep 
of  sunshine  became  really  a  delightful  occurrence. 
On  the  upper  deck  the  awnings  were  housed  all  day 
long,  and  but  little  could  be  done.  Books  were 
scarce,  and  social  amusements  flagged.  Even  the 
practical  jokers  neglected  their  tricks,  and  growled 


I  , 'I 
i 


f 


!  I 


flll^ 


>>'!    ! 


.11 


Iljlf 


80 


MONOTONY. 


•I 


:^^!il!ii 


and  complained  ;  the  actor,  who  had  become  master- 
at-arms,  waxed  more  tragic  and  savage  on  the  berth 
deck  ;  the  rural  preacher  read  his  Bible  and  groaned 
more  dolorously;  and  the  "dejected  lover"  was  plung- 
ed into  deeper  depths  of  dejection. 

It  was  indeed  a  wearisome  time,  but  when  I  thought 
of  our  gallant  and  accomplished  Dr.  Kane,  locked 
for  long  dreary  months  in  the  cold  and  cheerless  re- 
gions of  ice,  to  struggle  against  the  awful  severities  of 
the  Polar  night,  I  was  indeed  thankful  that  a  merci- 
ful Providence  had  directed  the  wanderings  of  my 
youth  to  the  clime  of  peaceful  seas,  the  land  of  palms 
and  bright  plumaged  birds,  of  odorous  woods  and  of 
brilliant  flowers. 


MP      ' 

hill:  , 


11 


mm 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Life  on  Board— The  St.  Mary's  rihI  Cyane— Look  out  for  Torpedoes— At- 
tempt to  Capture  a  Mail  Steamer,  by  Kebels— A  I'ortliole  Landscape. 

rflFE  on  ship  board  is  perhaps  a  trite  subject, 
^_^  ^  yet  those  whose  avocations  keep  them  afar 
^ic^39'  from  the  ocean  are  seldom  much  acquainted 
with  its  many  phases.  On  laud  neighborhoods  join 
and  commingle  in  the  infinite  ramifications  of  human 
intercourse,  from  sea  to  sea,  but  at  the  shore  the  chang- 
ing waters  know  no  locality,  and  acknowledge  no 
permanent  vicinage.  Hence  it  is,  that  the  handful  of 
men  confined  in  close  community  aboard  ship,  form  a 
little  world  of  their  own,  with  habits  and  customs  pe- 
culiar to  their  circumstances. 

As  the  weeks  passed  by,  we  became  more  familiar 
with  the  routine  life  we  were  to  lead,  and  habit,  by  de- 
grees inseusil)ly  divested  it  of  many  seemiug  hard- 
ships. The  regulations  of  strict  discipline  and  the 
enforced  uniformity  of  action  are  very  irksome  to  the 
landsman  at  first,  but  become  so  incorporated  with 
the  life  of  the  old  sailor,  as  to  be  almost  a  necessary 
part  of  his  existence.  Like  other  animals,  man  is  to 
a  great  extent  the  creature  of  habits;  and  when  the 
landsman  ventures  afioat  to  pry  into  the  mysteries  of 
^Neptune,  he  meets  with  circumstances  which  outrage 
all  his  i)revious  experience.     He  has  probably  been 


? ! 

li 


I! 

n 


11 

;  if- 

fijil:! 

lit  !»• 


jiii 


»'f^ 


32 


UP   AI.L   HANDS. 


■k 


accustomed  to  eat  at  his  convenience;  but  now  the 
bell  calls  him  to  his  food  with  the  regularity  and  pre- 
cision of  clockwork.  He  has  ]irobal)lv  often  slept 
away  the  morning  hours.  Now  in  the  gray  light  of 
dawn  the  boatswain's  mates  range  themselves  around 
the  hatchway  with  their  calls,  or  whistles.  Taking  a 
deep  inspiration,one  commences  the  peculiar,quavering 
call.  The  others  join  in  and  increase  the  volume  of 
penetrating  sound,  until  the  fierce,  shrill  scream  of 
their  united  efforts  might  bo  lieard  above  the  loud  din 
of  battle,  or  roar  of  tempest.  Three  times  the  metal- 
ic  crescendo  tingles  the  sleeper's  drowsy  and  unwilling 
ear,  and  then  their  hoarse,  bass  voices  mingle  in  an 
unintelligible  cry  wbif*!;  resounds  throughout  the  ship. 
This  being  inter})reted  to  the  novice,-  means  "Up  all 
hands."  The  call,  so  peculiarly  harsh  and  discordant, 
as  to  ha.ve  required  successive  generations  for  its 
elaboration,  banishes  from  every  eye,  "tired  nature's 
sweet  restorer,  balmy  sleep."  So  numy  minutes  are 
then  allowed  in  whicli  to  dress  and  get  on  deck  with 
hammock  lashed  in  regulation  style,  in  obedience  to 
the  order.  An  individual  who  can  adapt  himself  to 
all  circumstances,  however,  soon  gets  used  to  the  rules 
and  regulations,  and  conforms  to  them,  as  a  matter  of 
course. 

The  Cyane  and  St.  Mary's  lay  at  anchor  near  us 
part  of  the  time  we  were  here.  They  were  both  old- 
fashioned  sailing  ships  of  good  models  and  fine  sailing 
qualities.  Their  appearance  at  anchor,  or  under  sail, 
was  graceful  and  swanlike,  and  recalled  the  days  of 
Baiabridge  and  Porter,  of  "Old  Ironsides"  and  the 
Essex. 


CYANE    AND   TORPEDOES. 


33 


One  day  I  went  Jiboarfl  the  Cyiine  to  look  around 
and  have  a  chat  with  her  erew.  They  seemed  well 
satisfied,  with  both  shij)  and  captain.  They  related 
exploits  of  eacli.  highly  romantic.  Captain  Colvo- 
€oresses  appeared  to  be  in  his  proper  sphere,  in  com- 
mand of  such  a  ship.  There  is  a  tradition  among 
old  sailors  that  the  Cyane  was  captured  from  the 
French  lonu-  ago  by  the  English.  Half  a  century 
ago,  Captain  t^tewart  in  the  "Old  Ironsides,"  took 
this  same  Cyane,  together  with  the  Levant,  then  a  new 
ship,  from  the  English.  The  particulars  of  that  gal- 
lant affair  are  set  forth  in  Cooper's  Naval  History, 
together  with  the  doings  or  many  others  of  our  early 
naval  heroes. 

While  we  lay  here  at  anchor,  it  was  whispered  that 
agents  of  the  rebel  authorities  were  in  Panama,  and 
meditated  trying  the  effect  of  a  torpedo  on  our  ships. 
It  was  supposed  that  one  might  be  towed  out  at  night 
and  floated  against  us  with  the  tide.  Whether  such 
was  the  case  or  not,  the  Admiral  deemed  great  pre- 
caution necessary;  and  accordingly,  spare  spars  were 
rigged  ouu  c-i  the  water,  to  ffoat  and  form  a  torpedo 
fend'ir,  thirty  or  forty  feet  from  the  ship's  sides,  and. 
forward  of  the  bows. 

Whether  or  not  such  an  enteri)rise  was  ever  under- 
taken, I,  of  course,  could  not  know.  But  another 
more  daring  was,  which,  if  it  had  been  successful, 
would  have  been  followed  by  greater  results  of  disas- 
ter to  our  cause,  than  if  torpedoes  had  sent  us  to  the 
bottom  of  Pananui  Bay.  This  was  an  attempt  to 
capture  one  of  the  largest  and  finest  of  the  Baeific 


34 


GRKAT    CONSPIRACY. 


Mail  Stcanii^hips,  on  its  wfiy  from  Panama  to  Sail 
Francisco.  It  was  })ro})osotl  afterward  to  secure  gun» 
from  some  sailiiig  vessel  sent  for  the  i)uri)ose,  and  then 
connnence  a  career  of  devastation  among  the  Ameri- 
can merchant  vessels  in  the  Pacific,  similar  to  that  of 
the  Shenandoah  among  the  whaling  vessels,  not  long- 
afterwards.  A  certain  Mr.  Hogg,  formerly  a  United 
States  Naval  officer,  was  sent  out  to  operate.  He  ar- 
rived at  Panama  with  a  number  of  others  who  were 
to  act  as  his  officers  aboard  the  proposed  prize,  and 
they  proceeded  to  carry  out  their  design.  Passage 
was  engaged  for  Hogg  and  his  associates,  on  the  steam- 
er selected  for  capture,  which  was  to  leave  Panama 
for  San  Francisco.  It  was  their  intention  to  embark 
as  citizen  passengers,  and  as  soon  as  they  got  to  sea,  to 
seize  the  unarmed  officers,  take  charge  of  the  vesselr 
hoist  the  confederate  fiag,  enlist  part  of  the  passen- 
gers and  crew,  land  the  rest  somewhere,  and  then  with 
a  full  supply  of  coal,  stores,  and  funds,  proceed  to 
farther  depredations.  By  some  means  the  Admiral 
received  an  imimation  of  the  affiiir  before  the  sailing 
of  the  steamer,  and  made  i)reparatious  accordingly. 
As  soon  as  all  the  passengers  were  aboard  and  every- 
thing ready  for  departure,  a  force  of  marines  were 
sent  on  board  the  Mail  Steamer,  and  w'e  got  up  steam 
and  i)ut  to  sea  in  company  with  her.  It  having  beeii 
previously  ascertained  that  the  conspirators  were 
aboard,  their  game  was  ended.  At  early  dawn  next 
morning,  being  far  enough  from  Venezuelan  territory 
to  satisfy  the  re(|uiremcnts  of  maritime  law,  we  hove 
to,and  after  some  search  arrested  and  transferred  Hogg 
and  his  party,  to  the  Lancaster. 


NIITED    IN    THE    BUD. 


35. 


Leaving  the  mail  fiteamer  to  proceed  on  her  way,, 
we  returned  to  our  anchorage. 

Upon  opening  the  baggage  belonging  to  the  prison- 
ers, sufficient  evidence  in  the  shape  of  revolvers  and 
other  small  arms,  iron  hand-cufts,  confederate  iiags^ 
and  papers,  were  found  to  convict  them. 

This  ended  a  bold  undertaking,  and  no  doubt  pre- 
vented what  otherwise  would  most  undoubtedly  have 
been  a  wh<»lesale  destruction  of  American  shipi)ing, 
in  Pacific  waters. 

The  captured  party  were  subsecpiently  condenuied,. 
and  imprisoned  at  San  Francisco  in  one  of  the  forts 
of  the  harbor. 

This  scheme  being  frustrated  in  this  manner,  we 
resumed  our  former  monotonous  employment  of  swing- 
ing at  anchor  back  and  forth  with  the  tide,  oft' Dead 
Man's  Island,  and  waiting  for  something  else  to  turn 
up.  The  green  hills  ashore  appeared  most  inviting 
as  we  looked  out  upon  them  through  the  open  ports 
and  wondered  whether  monkeys  or  macaws  were  most 
numerous  in  their  shady  recesses.  The  sleepy  old 
fortress  walls  before  the  town,  wore  an  air  of  mystery 
about  their  knowledge  of  the  past  since  the  days  of 
the  buccaneers.  The  Indian  "dug-outs" sailed  past  us 
to  the  town,  laden  with  oranges,  bananas,  pine  apples, 
and  other  produce  of  the  southward  shore.  But  it 
was  our  mission,  as  sailors,  to  sleep,  eat,  nuister  at 
quarters,  and  answer  the  boatswains'  calls;  for  beyond 
our  routine  duties  we  had  no  recognized  business  witbi 
thought  or  iutelligeace,  past,  present,  or  future. 


I  '  -i 


m 


Ifiii 


. 


t       i 


1-4: 


:!i'' 


CHAPTER  V. 

Trppnrntions  for  Dcpnrture— The  "Dejected  Lover"  lualn-  Off  to  the 
Soutliwiiril—ldlaiKl  of  Ouil)o— A  retrospect  from  the  Bowsprit  at  Si-a— 
Aloft— Warin  llaiiiH  -A  Calm  near  the  "Line'"— I'ayta— Incident  of 
Anson's  visit— <^>tf  Hgaiu. 


"T  the  middle  of  December,  active  prepa- 
rations were  made  for  a  cruise  southward  to 
the  coast  of  Peru. 
The  two  large  luauches  Avhich  were  usually  stowed 
.amid.5bips^just  forward  of  the  eugiiie-room  hatch,  had 
previously  been  hoisted  into  the  water,  and  were  em- 
])i<)y.id  in  coaling  ship.     The  coal  was  brought  along- 
.side  in  sacks,  and  these  were  hoisted  aboard   with 
whips,  rove  through  blocks  at  the  yard-arms.     The 
watches  relieved  each  other  in  this  duty,  some  hook- 
ing on  the  sacks  in  the  boats,  and  others  manning  the 
whips  on  deck. 

The  dejected  lover  had  a  decided  aversion  to  this 
kind  of  employment,  on  account  of  the  dust,  and  the 
monotony  of  pulling  on  the  rope  every  time  the  boat- 
swain's mate  piped  to  hoist  away.  He  expressed  his 
•disgust  by  scarcely  touching  the  rope,  and  by  walk- 
ing when  the  men  ran.  Admonitions  were  of  no  avail; 
;S0  in  order  to  interest  him  in  the  business,  the  officer 
in  charge  had  him  tied  to  the  rope.     He  was  thus 


compelled 
Tne  sailor: 
arrangemc 
run   well 
and  then 
fortunate 
with  the   II 
whip  went 
long.     Ev( 
his  la/.y  iui 

Having 
completed 
steam,  on  1 

We  pti,- 
and  in  sigl 
the  shore  t 
Lord  Ans( 
and  waterc 
rian  of  thn 
esting  desc 

"Whilst 
commodor( 
a  boat  to  e 
and  they  a 
of  the  islai 
shore,  in  ti 
ly  found  tli 
great  plent 
the  N.  E.  ] 
ural  casca 
everything 


OFF   TO   C!ALLAO. 


sr 


eoiiipellcd  to  keep  pace  with  the  rest,  or  be  dragged.. 
Tne  sailor?,  who  always  despise  a  loafer,  enjoyed  the 
arran<;emeut  very  much,  for  they  would  sometiinea 
run  well  aft,  hoisting  the  sacks  an  high  as  possible,, 
and  then  let  go  "by  the  run."  By  this  means  the  un- 
fortunate lover  was  compelled,  not  only  to  keep  up 
with  the  men,  but  besides,  to  run  his  best  svhen  the 
whip  went  back,  to  keep  from  being  dragged  head- 
long. Even  this  severe  discipline  did  not  cure  him  of 
his  la/.y  indolence. 

Having  coaled,  hoisted  the  launches  aboard,  and 
completed  all  our   preparations,  avc  put  to  sea  under- 
steam,  on  the  17th. 

We  passed  several  islands  in  the  Bay  of  Panama,, 
and  in  sight  of  different  points  of  the  mainland.  Off 
the  shore  to  our  right  lay  the  island  of  Quibo,  where 
Lord  Anson,  on  his  voyage  into  these  seas,  wooded 
and  watered  his  squadron.  Relating  this,  the  histo- 
rian of  that  expedition  gives  us  the  following  inter- 
esting description  ; 

"Whilst  the  ship  coutiuucu  here  at  anchor,  the 
commodore,  attended  by  some  of  his  officers,  went  ia 
a  boat  to  examine  a  bay  w'hich  lay  to  the  northward  ;: 
and  they  afterwards  ranged  all  along  the  eastern  side 
of  the  island.  And  in  the  places  where  they  put  on 
shore,  in  the  course  of  this  expedition,  they  general- 
ly found  the  soil  to  be  extremely  rich,  and  met  ith 
great  plenty  of  excellent  water.  In  particular,  near 
the  N.  E.  point  of  the  island,  they  discovered  a  nat- 
ural cascade,  which  surpassed,  as  they  conceived,, 
everything  of  this  kind  which  human  art  or  industry 


I 


:38 


QUIBO. 


■hath  hitherto  produced.  It  was  a  river  of  trauspar- 
•ent  water,  about  forty  yards  wide,  which  rolled  down 
va  declivity  of  near  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length. 
The  channel  it  fell  into  was  very  irregular ;  for  it  was 
entirely  composed  of  rci"k,  both  its  sides  and  bottom 
being  r.iade  up  of  large  detached  blocks;  and  by 
these  the  course  of  the  water  was  frequently  inter- 
rupted :  for  in  some  parts  it  ran  sloping  with  a  rapid 
but  uniform  motion,  while  in  others  it  tumbled  over 
the  ledges  of  the  rocks  with  a  particular  descent. 
All  the  neighborhood  of  this  stream  was  a  fine  wood; 
\aud  even  the  huge  masses  of  rock,  which  overhung 
the  water,  and  which,  by  their  various  projections, 
formed  the  inequalities  of  the  channel,  were  covered 
"with  lofty  forest  trees.  Whilst  tlie  commodore,  with 
those  accompanying  him  were  attentively  reviewing 
this  place,  and  were  remarking  the  ditferent  blend- 
ings  of  the  water,  the  rocks,  and  the  wood,  there 
came  in  sight  (as  it  were  still  to  heighten  and  ani- 
mate the  prospect,)  a  prodigious  fiight  of  macaws, 
^vhich  hovering  over  this  spot,  and  often  wheeling  and 
playiug  on  the  wing  about  it,  afforded  a  most  brilliant 
appearance,  by  the  glittering  of  the  sun  on  their  va- 
riegated plumage:  so  that  some  .f  the  spectators  oan- 
not  refrain  from  a  kind  of  trans  ])ort,  when  they  re- 
count the  complicated  beauties  which  occurred  in  this 
extraordinary  waterfall." 

Under  the  pressure  of  steam  and  sails  we  soon  left 
Panama  I^ay  in  the  distance.  The  days  were  fine, 
-and  the  nigiiL^  beautifirl.  We  had  gentle  breezes, 
«nd  all   sail  being  made,  our  ship  moved  over  the 


VIEW    FUOM    THE    BOWSPRIT. 


39 


calm,  blue  waters,  with  majestic  bearing,  her  great 
extent  of  canvas,  like  a  cloud,  obscuring  by  day  a 
brilliant  sky,  and  by  night,  the  glories  of  the  star-lit 
heavens. 

To  get  the  best  view  of  the  ship  that  carries  you, 
when  she  is  under  sail  at  sea,  you  must  take  a  position 
out  on  the  bowsprit.  Thither  I  was  wont  to  i)etake 
myself  of  evenings,  creeping  with  care,  lest  incau- 
tious steps  might  lead  nie  to  l)econie  food  for  the  den- 
izens of  the  deep  below ;  and,  having  reached  a  se- 
cure place  far  out  between  the  forestays,  it  was 
delightful  to  look  back,  from  that  airy  perch,  upon 
the  huge  vessel,  with  her  gracefully  outlined  hull  and 
towering  masts  in  perspective.  To  an  imaginative 
person,  in  the  twilight,  she  would  seem  like  a  great 
winged  creature,  hovering  over  "the  vasty  deep." 
Sometimes  I  went  aloft  in  the  fore  top  mast  rig  iUg, 
where  the  gentle,  swaying  motion  of  the  mast,  from 
side  to  side  with  the  roll  of  the  ship,  gave  me,  alter 
the  first  sense  of  insecurity  passed  away,  a  singular, 
though  not  unpleasant  sensation. 

With  the  exception  of  one  or  two  heavy  rains  at 
night,  we  experienced  no  unpleasant  weather  during 
the  voyage  ;  and  ( veu.  the  rains  could  hardly  be 
called  disagreeable,  for  they  were  not  C(jld.  The 
men  on  duty  walked  l)ack  and  forth  barefooted  in 
the  water  that  washed  from  side  to  side,  before  it  ran 
off  through  the  scuppers  into  the  sea.  We  were  in  a 
latitude  which  the  power  and  influence  of  the  frost 
king  seldom  reaches. 

We  approached  and  crossed  the  equator  in  a  dead 


■>  ' 


1 


m 


40 


CALMS. 


Ill 


calm.     The  day  was  bright  with  tropical  sunshine, 
and  the  ocean  smooth  as  a  mirror. 

"The  blue  sky 
Leaned  silently  above;  and  t-i'  i  -   *''-'' 
And  azure  circled  roof  benean    Lhc  wave 
Was  imaged  back  and  seenned  the  deep  to  pave 
With  its  transparent  beauty." 

These  calms  are  common  in  these  parts,  and  I 
should  think,  that  with  all  their  attractions,  they 
would  sorely  try  the  patience  of  voyagers  in  a  sailing 
vessel.     But  on  board  a  steamship  it  is  otherwise. 

It  seems  that  even  the  restless  ocean  is  not  proof 
against  tropical  influences ;  for  he  sleeps  in  these 
sunny  regions  for  weeks  at  a  time.  The  ocean  in 
repose  is  grnnd.  I  have  often  seen  the  wjii  r  so 
glassy  smooth  and  still,  and  reflecting  in  t!,-  .  '  '  cr 
sunlight  so  perfectly  the  unclouded  br'uphtn.  -r  .f"  .\^ 
skv,  that  the  reality  above  and  the  reflection  beu  'ih 
seemed  blended  in  the  same  unfathomable  depths  oi' 
ethereal  space,  extending  in  every  direction  around, 
above  and  below.  Under  such  conditions  the  effect 
is  wonderful.  The  invisible  sea  has  vanished  from 
under  you.  You  feel  the  isolation  of  inter  phmetary 
and  endless  space;  for  your  vessel,  as  it  '■■■''y  floats, 
seems  the  only  object  in  the  glowing  imvr*  ity.  I 
believe  such  calms  are  only  seen  in  the  tro["";  j,  anc'. 
perhaps  most  frequently  upon  the  Pacific. 

On  Christmas  day  w"  rua  into  the  fine  harbor  of 
Payta,  a  small  towi   not  far  : '   m  Cape  Blanco. 

This  dreary  looking  little  place,  surrounded  by 
barrenness  and  desolation,  far  less  inviting  than  the 


SKL—LiiiL 

K'        J 

B' 

if 't 


•M 


•J 


(    ' 


!■ 


1 

f     1 . 

J 

^li 

iKi'i 


1 

'■'■}  '■■ 

i 

i 

MID-OCEAN  SCENE, 


PAYTA. 


41 


l/J 


wastes  of  the  ocean,  is  the  port  of  entry  for  the  large 
and  fertile  province  of  Piiira,  the  capital  of  which, 
of  the  same  name,  is  a  flourishing  city,  forty-five 
miles  inland.  Just  back  of  the  collection  of  thatched 
roof  houses  composliig  the  town,  there  is  a  low  rauge 
of  naked  sand  hills  which  add  to  the  bleak  and  des- 
olate appearance  of  the  place.  Payta  depends  upon 
the  distant  parts  of  the  province  for  all  the  necessa- 
ries of  life;  and  even  the  drinking  water  has  to  be 
brought  from  a  river  twelve  miles  away,  that  being 
the  nearest  source  of  supply.  The  water  is  brought 
by  mules  every  morning,  and  the  yearly  supply  of  a 
large  family  must  be  a  very  exi)ensive  item  in  the 
household  economy.  Sometimes  there  is  no  rain 
here  for  ten  years,  but  usually  they  have  it  every 
three  or  four  years.  I  presume  a  sprinkle  once  a  year 
would  be  considered  a  very  wet  time.  -" 

Payta  is  noted  in  history  as  the  scene  of  one  of 
Lord  Anson's  exploits,  all  of  which  is  most  minutely 
described  in  the  history  of  his  expadition.  This  old 
book  describes  the  robbing  and  burning  of  the  town 
as  a  most  commendable  and  heroic  act.  Every  ves- 
sel in  the  harbor  was  either  ca})tured  or  burnt,  and 
the  treasure  here,  amounting  to  an  immense  sum,  tell 
into  the  hands  of  the  English. 

Speaking  of  one  of  the  pilots  forced  into  service  as 
a  guide  in  tlieir  attack,  the  writer  says  : 

"On  this  occasion,  I  cannot  but  remark  a  singular 
circumstance  of  one  of  the  pilots  employed  by  us  in  this 
business.  It  seems  (as  we  afterwards  learned)  he  had 
been  taken  by  Captain  Clipporton  above  twenty  years 


'•<3 


I  I.I  i| 


!*i, 


'  ;'   ! 


42 


EARLY   PRIVATEERfNO. 


before,  aud  had  been  obliged  to  lead  Clipperton  aud 
his  people  to  the  surprise  of  Truxillo,  a  t<twii  withiu 
land,  to  the  southward  of  Payta,  where,  however,  he 
contrived  to  alarm  his  countrymen,  and  to  save  thcru, 
though  the  place  was  carried  and  pillaged.  Now, 
that  the  only  two  attemi)ts  on  shore,  Avliich  were  made 
at  so  long  an  interval  from  each  other,  should  be 
guided  by  the  same  person,  and  he  too  a  prisoner 
both  times,  and  forced  upon  the  employ  contrary  to 
his  inclination,  is  an  incident  so  very  extraordiuary, 
that  I  could  not  help  mentioning  it." 

Peru  at  the  time  of  Anson's  visit  was  a  province 
of  Spain,  and  every  Spaniard,  with  all  his  worldly 
goods,  was  considered  lawful  prize  by  the  English  ; 
provided  only  that  tl  ey  could  make  the  captute. 
Payta  has  been  repeatedly  sacked  aud  destroyed  since 
the  days  of  Pizarro,  but  still  there  is  something  left, 
of  it,  though  not  enough  now  perhaps  to  tempt  ad- 
venturers to  its  capture. 

AVe  only  sto])ped  long  enough  to  take  on  l)oard 
some  fresh  jjrovisious,  and  then  put  to  sea  again, 
keeping  near  the  C(jast. 


II 


CHAPTER  VI. 

The  Andes— Arrive  at  Callao— The  Bay— IVruvian,  Kiiglish  anrt  French 
Ships  of  War— A  visit  from  the  I'eniviau  AdniiriU— Visit  from  the 
I'reriident  of  I'eru— Arrival  of  tlie  Spanish  Kleet— Visit  from  Spanish 
Admiral— A  Sprig  of  Royalty -I'ruits,  i<.c..—(Jlimate  —  Idling— Natives 
of  I'eru— Midnight  Welcome  to  the  New  Year— A"rliored  over  a  City- 
Divine  in  !<n  Iron  Roat— A  I'eruvian  Serenade— The  Sindwich  Island 
Jlinister— The  old  Fredonia  and  lier  Fate. 

IS^RS  we  stood  on  our  way  southward  to  Callao. 
(^1^  we  were  a  good  part  of  the  time  in  sight  of 
%^W  "  those  vast  hills  called  the  Andes."  In  the 
mornings  their  snowy  crests  delayed  our  sunrise,  and 
in  the  evenings,  when  the  sun  had  disajipeared  from 
us  in  the  western  waters,  they,  in  his  full  light,  still 
■  mingled  gold  jind  crimson  in  endless  and  most  mag- 
nificent combinations. 

The  second  day  after  leaving  Payta  we  arrived  at 
Callao,  after  dark.  The  picture  that  presented  itself, 
as  we  dropped  anchor,  was  one  of  glimmering  lights 
in  the  darkness,  reflected  in  the  still  -»\ater.  In  the 
distant  background  were  luminous  clouds  overhang- 
ing Lima  ;  for  the  glare  of  the  city  light  lit  up  the 
heavens,  though  they  were  hidden  from  our  view  by 
intervening  objects. 

The  next  morning  revealed  a  great  number  of  ves- 
sels, of  every  description,  at  anchor  all  around  us, 
the  extensive  fortifications  of  Callao,  and  the  bsrreu, 
rugged,  San  Lorenzo  looming  up  .out  of  the  ocean  be- 
hind us.     Close  in  shore  lay  the  Peruvian   fleet,  anx- 


\i  ii 


i  ,1 

al 

■   |i    1 

j| 

44 


THE    FLEETS. 


m 

iously  expecting  the  arrival  of  the  Spanish  fleet  froia 
Chili.  The  frigate  Amazon,  flagship  of  the  Peruvian 
Admiral,  lay  farthest  out  and  nearest  to  us.  Safe  in- 
shore we  could  see  the  famous  ironclad  built  here  :  it 
was  noted  for  going  straight  to  the  bottom  as  soon  as 
it  got  into  the  water,  thus  affording  its  wise  builders 
the  pleasure  and  profit  of  raising  and  remodeling  it- 
Near  us  lay  the  Leander,  flagship  of  the  English  Ad- 
miral, with  others  of  his  fleet ;  and  also  the  "  Vic- 
toire"  French  frigate,  like  all  the  rest,  bristling  with 
guns  and  decked  with  pennants  and  flag.  Besides 
these,  scores  of  sedate  and  unpretending  merchant 
vessels,  bearing  the  produce  and  flags  of  various 
nations,  were  scattered  here  and  there  all  over  this 
wide  bay.  They  were  continually  coming  and  going,. 
at  all  hours,  notwithstanding  the  buzz  of  preparation 
for  war.  While  some  spread  their  white  wings  for 
distant  regions,  others,  continually  arriving,  dropped) 
anchor  in  their  places,  and  thus  kept  pojHilous  this 
ocean  hive. 

Everybody  was  hourly  expecting  the  arrival  of  the' 
Spanish  fleet ;  and  often  our  eyes  were  turned  sea- 
ward to  search  the  horizon  for  the  smoke  and  sails  of 
the  coming  frigates.  A  grand  naval  battle,  and 
nothing  less,  Avas  counted  on,  seeing  the  warlike 
bearing  of  the  Peruvians,  and  hearing  their  views  of 
things  in  general,  and  themselves  in  particular. 

In  a  few  days  the  Peruvian  Admiral  came  on 
board  from  his  flagship,  the  Amazon  frigate,  and  was 
received  with  the  usual  f-"^,^ute  and  ceremonies.  He 
■vvas  an  old,  bald-headeu  man,   fat   and  coarse  fea.- 


>.'  ■ 


THE   PRESIDENTS    VISIT. 


45 


tured,  with  a  downcast  look  and  most  unprepossess- 
ing expression  of  countenance.  He  was  accom- 
panied by  a  number  of  his  officers.  Poor  okl  fellow  ! 
Though  now  gold-laced  and  epauletted,  received 
with  "  pomp  and  circumstance,"  and  doubtless  en- 
vied his  rank  and  power,  y(?t,  a  few  months  after,  in 
the  next  revolution,  he  was  hung  at  his  own  yard- 
arm  and  by  his  own  crew. 

During  our  visit  General  Perez  was  President,  and 
his  deposed  enemy,  General  Castillo,  a  fugitive.  One 
day  he  came  down  from  Lima  with  a  numerous  suite 
of  officers  to  pay  us  a  visit.  This  honor  called  for 
all  the  agony  of  naval  and  military  etiquette.  The 
President's  barge  was  large  and  handsome.  As  he 
stepped  on  deck  our  eight  inch  guns  thundered  forth 
a  national  salute  and  the  yards  were  manned.  Perez 
was  a  tall,  fine  looking  man,  with  a  good  head,  as 
the  phrenologists  say,  and  an  intellectual  cast  of 
countenance.  His  presence  was  dignified,  command- 
ing and  noble.  The  officers  of  his  staff  were,  many 
of  them,  foppish  young  men,  and  dressed  "  within  an 
inch  of  their  lives,"  in  gaudy  uniforms.  It  was  al- 
most distressing  to  see  how  they  tortured  their  waists 
and  feet,  to  make  them  conform  to  their  ideas  of  ele- 
gance and  fashion. 

After  an  interview  with  the  Admiral,  in  the  cabin, 
the  President  inspected  the  vessel,  the  guns  and  the 
engine.  He  admired  most  the  eleven  inch  fore  and 
aft  pivot  guns.  This  ceremony  over,  he  took  his  de- 
parture. 

The  English  Admiral,  as  well  as  the  others,  ex- 


: 


I  > 


46 


THi:    NEW    YEARS    WELCOME. 


M 


changed  visits  and  courtesies  with  our  Admiral,  and 
tlie  inferior  officers  frequently  did  the  same. 

I  was  on  duty,  on  deck,  in  the  first  watch  of  the 
last  night  of  the  year,  and  as  midnight  drew  on,  all 
the  bells  of  the  Callao  churches  tolled  solemnly  for 
the  dying  year.  The  night  was  still,  and  the  heavy  mist 
dimmed  the  city  lights,  and  modified  the  mournful 
sounds  to  nuiffled  moans,  that  told  their  sad  tale  ta 
the  mountains  and  the  sea.  All  at  once,  exactly  at 
twelve  o'clock,  the  bells  rang  out  merrily  from  the 
many  churches  in  most  clamorous  peals  of  joyous 
welcome  to  the  New  Year.  The  cheerful  ringing 
bell  tones  of  "brazen  melody,"  that  burst  forth  so  sud- 
denly after  the  solemn  stillness  of  the  dark  hours, 
broken  only  at  intervals  by  the  heavy  sounds  which 
came  sadly  over  the  mist-covered  and  night-clouded 
waters,  produced  an  impressive  effect  not  easily  de- 
scribed. '         . 

The  engrossing  topic,  just  at  this  time,  was  the 
"unpleasantness"  with  Spain.  Chili  and  Peru  were 
partially  blockaded  by  the  Spanish  fleet,  but  the  en- 
terprising young  republics  managed  so  well  as  to  get 
some  of  her  most  Catholic  Majesty's  ships  into  sev- 
eral bad  predicaments. 

When  we  arrived,  the  Spanish  squadron  was  daily 
expected  from  the  southward;  and  before  many  days 
elapsed  the  looked  for  visitors  came.  One  by  one 
they  appeared,  with  sail  and  steam,  coming  around 
the  north  end  of  San  Lorenzo.  Trim  built  and  tall,, 
the  stately  frigates  approaching  in  order,  presented, 
to  us  a  fine  spectacle,  and   a   threatening  aspect   ta 


mw'i 


1 


THE   Sl'ANISH    FLEET. 


47 


tlie  more  interested  Peruvian.^.  The  Belhi  Miulrid, 
flagship,  anchored  close  to  our  position,  and  the  oth- 
ers at  })roper  distances  from  each  other.  Still  nearer 
than  the  Bella  Madrid,  the  fast  gunhoat,  Covadonga, 
drop])ed  her  anchor.  This  little  vessel  was  a  pet  of 
the  Spaniards;  and  when  it  was  eaptuied  by  the  Chil- 
ians some  time  after,  the  Admiral  took  it  so  much  to 
heart  that  he  committed  suicide  in  his  cabin.  Doubt- 
less his  lack  of  success  in  his  expedition,  all  along, 
contributed  to  the  same  result. 

We  were  anchored  between  the  hostile  fleets,  and 
we  kept  our  position.  The  expected  bombardment 
did  not  take  place  during  our  stay,  on  account  of 
some  negotiations  that  were  entered  into  with  the 
government. 

The  Sjjanish  Admiral  came  aboard  us,  and  was 
received  with  the  usual  salute  and  other  honors.  A 
mild,  pleasant,  and  gray  haired  old  gentleman,  of 
medium  size — a  striking  contrast  to  the  Peruvian  Ad- 
miral in  every  way — he  iravieN-ed  one  most  favor- 
ably. He  went  through  the  usual  routine  of  cere- 
monies, and  inspected  the  guns  and  machinery. 

The  ofiicers  who  accompanied  him  were  apparently 
gentlemen  of  education  and  refinement.  One  of 
them,  a  slender,  sallow  fellow,  was  said  to  ))e  a  near 
relative  of  Queen  Isabella.  He  had  a  downcast  and 
dejected  look.  Such  a  doleful  eypression,  as  he  wore, 
would  have  been  nmre  becoming  if  all  his  relations 
had  been  dead,  which  is  probably  not  the  case,  as 
royal  personages  are  still  numerous  in  Spain.  He 
was  also  verv  absent-minded.     He  stood   aft,  on  the 


11    !••- 


ai 


ii 


48 


FRlirS — CLIMATE. 


quartor  deck,  in  conversation  witli  an  officer,  when 
the  admiral  came  up  from  the  cal)in  to  <^o  in  his 
boat;  and  he  remained  f^tanding  there  until  the  Ad- 
miral reached  the  gany:way,  when,  according  to  na- 
val etiquette,  hv  should  have  been  in  the  boat.  The 
Admiral  halted  a  moment,  to  give  him  a  chance  to 
gain  his  proper  place,  and  by  making  ♦'un  for  it  he 
succeeded. 

Although  we  arrived  at  Callao*  in  me  latter  part 
of  December,  we  found  fruits  and  vegetable.^  '>f  every 
kind  cheap  and  abundant,  this  being  the  summer  of 
the  Southern  hemisphere.  Grapes  especially,  fresh 
and  of  excellent  (puility,  wore  in  season,  We  in- 
dulged freely  ii  the  fruits  that  abounded  so  plenti- 
fully, and  varied  jur  fare  with  vegetables  fresh  from 
the  gardens  or  fields. 

The  weather  vas  warm  and  pleasant,  though  the 
jiiornings  wero  foggy.  They  say  it  has  never  been 
known  to  rain  atCallao;  and  even  if  this  were  strictly 
true,  it  is  not  necessary ;  for  every  morning  the  fall- 
ing mist  or  dew  was  so  heavy  as  to  completely  wet 
the  clothing  of  any  one  exposed  for  a  short  time 
during  the  latter  part  of  night,  or  early  morning 
hours.  From  this  vicinity  southward  the  climate  is 
very  fine.  More  than  a  century  ago,  Richard  Wal- 
ter, speaking  of  a  cruise  off  the  southern  coast,  de- 
clared, "that  in  this  climate  every  circumstance  con- 
curred ihat  could  make  the  open  air  and  the  daylight 
desirable.  For,  in  other  countries,  the  scorching 
heat  of  the  sun  in  summer  renders  the  greater  part 
of  the  day  unfit,  either  for  labor  or  amusement,  and 


■^^ 


IDLINO. 


49 


the  frequent  rains  are  not  les3  troublesome  in  the 
more  temperate  parts  of  the  year,  lint  in  this  hai)py 
climate  the  sun  rarely  appears  ;  not  that  the  heavens 
have  a  dark  and  gloomy  look,  for  there  is  constantly 
a  cheerful,  gi'ay  sky,  just  sufficient  to  sereen  the  sun, 
and  mitigate  the  vn)lence  of  its  perpendicular  rays, 
without  obscuring  the  air,  or  tinging  the  daylight 
with  an  unpleasant  or  melancholy  hue." 

Our  duties  were  light,  and  many  a  leisure  hour 
was  passed  by  the  crew  in  idle  amusement.  Old 
.sailors  criticised  the  rigging  of  the  vai  ions  ships,  and 
speculated  upon  their  cargoes  and  destination  ;  young 
ones  canvassed  and  discussed  the  probabilities  of  a 
bombardment,  or  listened  to  the  chattering  natives 
along  side,  who  tortured  the  j)ure  Castilian  with  va- 
rious degrees  of  recklessness.  Sometimes  a  swinging 
boom  was  lowered,  and  those  who  could  swim  tum- 
bled about  in  the  water,  as  regardless  of  the  many 
fathoms  beneath  them,  as  so  many  mermen  might  be. 

The  population  of  Peru  is  com[)osed  of  different 
races  and  mixed  breeds.  The  whites,  (n-  descendants 
of  the  Spaniards,  are  still  the  aristocratic  class, 
though  few  in  uumbor  and  mostly  collected  in  the 
cities.  There  are  some  negroes  and  a  considerable 
number  of  Chinese,  many  of  whom  are  said  to  be  in- 
voluntary emigrants.  The  remnant  of  the  ancient 
population,  the  descendants  <jf  the  subjects  of  the 
Incas,  still  stamp  their  characteristics  on  Peruvian 
society  among  the  lower  classes,  and  even  many 
among  the  rich  and  powerful  bear  traces  of  the  fea- 
tures of  the  children  of  the  Sun.     It  is  said  that  in 


ill 


60 


GENEALOGY. 


some  of  the  provinces  they  hr.ve  preserved  their  au- 
oieut  Quichua  language,  and  that  east  of  the  Andes 
there  exist  independent  and  warlike  tribes,  still  sub- 
ject to  caciques,  or  chiefs,  who  claiju  descent  from  the 
Incas,  or  ancient  kings  of  the  land. 

The  mixed  breed,  descended  from  the  indigenous 
Peruvians,  are  called  cholos.  Among  these  we  often 
saw  individuals  whose  faces  bore  the  lineaments  of 
the  features  of  that  race  which  ruled  before  T-*izarro 
landod  ;  and  I  have  often  mused  over  a  dusky  speci- 
men who  came  along  side  and  wished  that  it  mitrht 
be  permitted  me  to  read  the  book  of  liis  genealogy 
from  the  days  of  the  good  Manco  Capac  down^ 
through  all  the  years  of  the  Incas,  through  all  the 
dark  days  of  Pizarro's  rule,  and  of  the  viceroyalty. 
and  through  the  changed  timoi;  of  the  republic.  Per- 
haps some  ancestor  of  my  idle  fruit  seller,  with  mild 
and  gentle  features  like  his,  may  have  been  the 
prime  minister,  or  a  high  dignitary,  under  a  peaceful 
sovereign,  in  an  age  before  the  coming  of  the  con- 
querors. Perhaps  some  one  ot  them  may  have  been 
one  of  the  messengers  sent  by  the  imprisoned  Atahu- 
alpa,  to  collect  the  treasures  of  Peru  to  give  for  his 
life  ;  mayhap  a  priest,  or  a  keeper  of  the  great  silver 
image  of  the  ^un,  or  of  the  golden  treasures  of  the 
tem[)le  ci  Cuzco.  Yes,  perhaps,  but  more  [)robably 
the  lazy  fellow  in  whose  descent  so  much  lost  and 
forgotten  historv  might  be  coadenscd,  could  not  take 
the  fa-st,  or  second  step,  backward,  in  a  genealogical 
line,  without  becoming  involved  in  doubt  and  uncer- 
tainty. 


A    IJUKIED   CITY. 


51 


The  (lays  slipped  by  quite  pleasantly,  cousideriiijc 
the  disaji:reeal)le  situation  of  being  in  sight  of  such 
historic  places  as  Lima  and  Callao,  without  being 
able  to  visit  and  explore  them  thoroughly.  Seldom 
did  the  routine  duties  which  demanded  by  presence 
on  board  seem  mora  distasteful.  I  regretted  that  I 
could  not  see  more  of  this  interesting  country,  that  I 
had  not  the  privilege  of  seeking  for  the  truces  of  the 
fabulous  '.'.^e  of  Peruvi.^n  history,  or  mei\ientoes  of 
its  near  antiquity. 

We  were  anchored  in  deep  water,  and  our  anchor 
iay  on  ground  which  was  said  to  have  been  once  occu- 
pied by  a  city  before  one  of  their  tremendous  earth- 
quakes buried  it  deep  in  the  waters.  Nature  ha;^ 
here,  ir.  the  past,  suffered  great  convulsions,  and 
the  subterraneous  powers  have  at  times,  held  high 
carnival  araid  the  foundations  of  the  land  and  the 
sea.  We  are  told  that  ';he  lofty,  rugged,  and  rocky 
island  of  San  Lorenzo  was,  in  one  day,  raised  from 
the  dei)ths  of  the    cean  to  its  present  position. 

Some  time  before  our  visit,  an  adventurous  genius 
had  taken  a  fancy  to  go  down  and  explore  the  buried 
city.  He  invented  i\  large  air-tight,  iron  div'.ng  boat 
of  great  size  and  weigiit,  and  when  all  was  I'cady, 
had  it  towed  out  to  this  place.  Here  he  arranged  the 
apparatus,  and  with  his  son  and  five  or  six  friends, 
got  into  it  to  go  to  the  bottom.  It  went  down  beau- 
tifully, but  when,  after  staying  some  time,  they  tried 
to  come  up,  they  found  that  it  would  not  work  in  that 
direction.  As  they  could  do  nothing  with  thtir  un- 
wieldy machine,  they  were  compelled  to  remain  there, 
shut  up  as    helpless     prisoners.     Divers    were  .sent 


I! 

;! 
'1 1 


52 


INCIDENTS. 


down,  but  were  unable  to  effect  their  release,  or  to 
afford  them  the  slightest  assistance,  and  could  only 
give  them  a  sad  satisfaction  by  roeeiving  their  last 
messages  to  their  friends.  There,  according  to  the 
veracious  chronicler  of  this  melancholy  affair,  they 
all  perished  ;  and,  within  that  iron  boat  for  a  com- 
mon coffin,  they  yet  repose  in  their  wide  grave,  the 
Bay  of  Callao,  awaiting  their  chances  between  some 
future  earthquake  and  the  angel  Gabriel. 

A  pleasant  incident  of  our  story  was  a  serenade  by 
the  Peruvian  flagship's  band.  Their  performance 
was  opood,  and  the  stillness  of  the  night  enhanced  the 
fine  effect  of  their  music.  After  rowing  around  us 
at  a  distance  in  the  darkness,  they  ceased.  We 
cheered  them,  and  with  "Vivos  los  Americanos,"  they 
departed  as  they  came. 

A  few  davs  after,  the  Sandwich  Island  minister 
came  on  board,  and  interviewed  the  Admiral.  He  was 
an  American  or  an  Englishman,  and  not  a  native 
Kanaka  as  I  had  expected. 

The  old  FiL'iionia  storeshin  lay  here,  dismantled 
and  housed  over.  Doubtless  she  had  met  many  a 
storm  and  gale  in  many  a  sea;  but  now  she  rested 
from  her  labors  in  the  unassuming  capacity  of  a 
storeship  for  the  squadron.  Since  our  visit,  her  career 
has  closed  forever,  in  one  of  the  grandest  earthquakes 
that  has  ever  happ3ned  in  this  region  of  earth- 
quakes, since  the  first  days  of  its  authentic  history. 
In  the  same  great  convulsion  of  n.'iture,  the  man-of- 
war  AN'^ateree  was  carried  a  considerable  distance  in- 
land by  the  great  tidal  wave  wnich  swept  everything 
before  it  to  destruction. 


^VP 


\\  *l 


CHArTER  YII. 

Off  for  Panama— Hiirial  utSea— ''iinama— Vi^it  Dead  Man's  Island— "Darl"' 
— OUi  Walls -Clim' 'iig  tlic  Itocks— I^imiias- Viuw  fr"!r.  the  top- 
Lonely  (}rav«s—"T(il)oga  Bill"  and  the  Sharks— A  Specimen  Revolu- 
tion—utl' lor  Acapiilco.  , 

In  March,  after  more  than  two  months  stay,  we 
I  ii,ot  up  anchor  to  return  lo  Panama.  Our  trip 
^^'i  down,  account  of  adverse  currents,  and  de- 
tention at  Payta,  occupied  ten  days,  but  'U  return 
was  accomplished  in  nii  The  weather  was  some- 
what boisterous,  and  the  wind  uufav  >rable  for  part 
of  the  distance,  but  in  this  latitude  bad  weather  doe* 
not  last  long,  and  all  was  soon  serene  again. 

The  only  occurrence  of  note  wns  the  burial  at  sea 
of  a  Sandwich  Islander,  who  died  a  few  days  after 
leaving  Callao.  He  had  been  ailing  f>r  some  time, 
and  his  death  was  not  unexpected 

It  is  customary  during  a  burial  ai  sea,  for  the  ves- 
sel to  lay  to.  The  body  having  been  brought  to  the 
lee  gangway,  and  the  crew  collected  by  the  boat- 
swain's mates,  the  chaplain  proceeded  to  read  the 
burial  service. 

This  was  the  first  time  I  had  ever  been  present  ju 
such  an  occasion,  and  the  unfamiliar  ceremony  made 
a  deep  and  lasting  impression  on  my  mind.  The 
crew  were  assembled  with  uncovered  heads,  and  the 
mournful  silence  was  unbroken,  save  by  the  soughing 


'Ml 


'HI 


imv 


54 


BURIAL   AT   SEA. 


of  the  blue  deep,  so  soon  to  receive  the  cold  clay  of 
another  mortal,  and  the  clear,  soft  voice  of  the  chap- 
lain, as  he  intoned  the  solemn  and  beiAitiful  service 
for  the  dead.  At  the  words  **Ave  commit  his  body  to 
the  deep,"  the  body  was  slid  from  the  board  on  which 
it  lay,  feet  foremost  into  the  water.  As  usurl  it  was 
.sewed  up  in  strong  canvass,  with  heavy,  iron  shot  at 
the  feet,  so  that  the. plunge  and  disappeui'?aice  were 
almost  instantaneous.  To  me  it  seemed  horril)le, — 
this  sudden  sinking  into  the  fathomless,  trackless 
ocean,  —  and  after  the  ship  resumed  her  course, 
I  could  not  help  gazing  long  astern,  at  ine  place,  to 
mark,  if  ])ossible,  the  spot  where  the  body  of  a  human 
being  had  disappeared  forever. 

Arriving  at  I'anama  on  the  16th,  we  resumed  our 
former  anchorage,  and  continued  our  former  routine 
of  duties.  There  was  a  "revolution"  brewing  on 
shore  among  the  native  ofHcials  and  would-be-ofHci'ils. 
Events  here  were  however  on  a  much  smaller  scale 
than  at  Callao, 

Formerly  the  time  was,  when  Panama  was  the 
m3tropolis  of  the  Caucasian  race  on  the  shores  of 
the  Pacific.  Thence  went  forth  the  adventurous 
bands  which  pei  trated  to  the  unknown  shores  of 
Peru  and  Chili  southward,  and  to  the  tribes  and  na- 
tions along  the  jNlexican  coasts  northwestward.  Now 
it  is  an  insignilicant  way-station  on  the  journey  to 
the  populous  and  powerful  nations,  once  its  outposts. 
Such  ar(i  the  changes  wrought  by  time. 

An  incident  of  our  stay  was  an  excursion  to  Dead 
Man's  Isk  nd,  a  steep,   rocky  eminence,  rising  several 


AN    EXCURSION. 


55 


hundred  feet  out  of  the  water,  aud  almost  porpeudic- 
iilar  ou  the  side  fociug  the  oceau.  Thirty  or  forty  of 
us  pulled  iu  two  of  the  cutters,  to  a  cove  on  the 
land  side.  As  we  ueared  the  heach,  several  of  the 
sailors,  and  a  messenger  boy,  nicknamed  "  Dad." 
jumped  overboard  to  swim  ashore.  At  the  same  mo- 
ment, one  of  the  men  in  the  boat  observed  the  knife- 
like  fin  of  a  shark,  cutting  through  the  water  with 
great  velocity,  directly  toward  the  diminutive  boy, 
who  was  eagerly  enjoying  the  sport.  Instantly  he 
gave  the  alarm,  and  all  commenced  yelling  and 
splashing  the  water,  while  the  boy,  with  great  cool- 
ness aud  presence  of  mind,  turned  round  to  face  the 
danger.  The  shark  came  closi'  uj)  to  him,  when  we 
perceived  that  :i  fish  fiying  for  its  life  through  the 
transparent  water  was  the  ol)ject  of  his  sharkship's 
immediate  nttention.  It  took  refuge  among  the 
bathers,  aud  die  shark,  frightened  by  the  noise, 
wheeled  suddenly  by  the  right  Hank  and  disappeared 
in  deep  water. 

Dad  was  a  character,  our  "little  old  man  of  the 
sea."  Although  the  shark  came  so  suddenly,  and  so 
close  that  we  could  have  reached  him  with  an  oar. 
Dad  never  lost  his  cool  presenc(!  of  mind.  He  was  as 
nonchalant  and  fearless  in  danger,  as  an  old  hero. 
Though  not  larger  than  a  boy  of  seven  or  eight 
years,  he  was  nearly  twice  that  age.  His  face  had 
the  expression  of  an  old  salt,  and  a  large  quid  of  to- 
bacco, constantly  bulgins-  out  his  cheek,  kept  up  the 
comi(.'al  similarity  of  appearance  which  had  suggested 
to  the  sailors  his  nickname.     He   was  a  good  swim- 


% 


%' 


56 


"  DAD." 


if 


mer  and  active  as  a  cat.  When  sent  aloft  to  clear 
the  pennant,  or  sij^nal  halliards,  he  would  do  it 
quickly,  and  then  slide  down  the  top  gallant  back 
stay  with  a  velocity  astonishing  to  even  the  most  ex- 
perienced sailors.  I  have  seen  hira,  at  sea,  go  upon 
the  main  yard  arm,  and  lie  down  beyond  the  lifts 
and  braces  on  the  bare  end  of  the  yard,  and  wait 
until  a  bobo,  not  perceiving  his  diminutive  form^ 
would  alight  upon  him,  as  they  often  did  on  the 
yards.  Dad  would  seize  the  legs  of  the  huge  sea 
bird,  and  descend  iu  triumph  to  the  decks  with  his 
captive,  almost  as  lavge  as  himself. 

After  the  intruder  had  left  us,  we  went  ashore, 
satisfied  that  not  even  the  shallow  water  on  the  beach 
was  ^'afe  from  sharks. 

On  the  side  on  which  we  landed  there  were  several 
rods  of  comparatively  level  ground  between  the  water 
and  the  steep  ascent.  Here  were  a  number  of  beau- 
tiful cocoa-palms,  several  graves  of  unfortunate 
"  strangers  in  a  strange  land,"  and  the  remains  of  old 
fortifications,  built  perha})s  in  the  days  when  the 
buccaneers  infested  the  Spanish  main.  The  old 
walls,  moss-covered  and  gray  with  age,  were  full  of 
suggestions  of  the  past,  but  I  had  no  ineans  of  find- 
ing out  their  history,  and  I  reluctantly  left  them  to 
make  the  ascent  with  my  companions. 

The  side  of  the  hill  was  steep,  rocky,  and  in  places 
overgrown  with  brushwood.  In  the  scramble  to  be 
first  at  the  top,  and  when  about  half-way  up,  I  came 
suddenly  upon  what  I  at  first  thought  a  young  alli- 
gator, or  a    monstrous  lizard.     It  glided  away  from. 


i 


7^1 


DEAD   man's   island. 


57 


my  feet,  leaving  me  startled  and  surprised  at  such  an 
unexpected  object.  I  shortly  after  learned  that  this 
was  an  iguana,  a  harmless  kind  of  lizard,  which  is 
highly  esteemed  by  some  natives  and  sailors,  and 
eaten  by  them  whenever  they  are  so  fortunate  as  to 
secure  this  saurian  game.  One  of  the  sailors  caught 
one,  nearly  three  feet  long,  and  took  it  aboard  alive 
for  his  dinner  the  next  day. 

The  view  from  the  top  of  the  rock  was  fine,  and 
amply  repaid  the  exertion  of  climbing  up.  The 
south  side,  exposed  to  the  sea,  is  so  steep  that  i(.  seems 
as  if  a  step  only  was  required  to  plunge  the  adven- 
turer from  the  summit  to  the  rocks  and  brea,kers  at 
the  bottom. 

Among  the  graves  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  was  one 
of  an  American  officer,  with  a  headstone  which  had 
but  recently  been  put  up.  After  the  name  and  dates, 
was  inscribed  the  line  from  Horace,  importing,  that 
"  it  is  sweet  and  proper  to  die  for  one's  country." 
Taking  into  consideration  the  prevalence  of  lizards 
and  other  creeping  things,  the  solitude  of  the  sur- 
roundings, and  the  encroaching  jungle,  w^  cmcluded 
that,  notwithstandijig  the  old  Roman  poet's  opinion, 
it  was  sweeter  to  live  for  one's  country. 

There  are  no  houses  or  human  inhabitants  on  this 
island.  There  are  said  to  be  goats,  but  we  did  not 
see  any.  The  isolated  graves  among  the  bushes,  the 
walls  moldy  and  old  on  the  beach,  the  solitary  cocoa 
palms,  cut  off  from  the  main  land,  and  the  roar  of 
the  breakers  on  the  seaworn  side,  are  the  principal 
features  of  this  sea-girt  solitude  with  the  sombre 
name. 


'':  II 


^  ? 

n 

■i^ 

i 

•i 

1 

.>• 

1 

B 

1 

i 

■% 

M 

1  h 

P  1 

,:( 

1' 

-t 

H 

t 

v 

t 

& 

i 

1 

68 


SHAKKS. 


m^\  N! 


I 


We  returned  aboani  at  dusk,  tired  and  hungry. 
As  we  pulled  to  the  ship,  quite  a  number  of  sharks, 
mostly  small  ones,  were  cutting  the  water  hither  and 
thither,  with  their  back  fios  just  above  the  surface. 
While  trailing  my  hand  carelessly  in  the  water  one 
of  them  made  for  it,  but  I  disappointed  him  and  did 
not  repeat  such  carelessness. 

Panama  Bay  is  a  favorite  resort  for  sharks.  The 
largest  I  ever  saw  were  here,  and  the  uncouth  mons- 
ters, of  great  size,  were  very  numerous.  They  fre- 
quented the  bows  of  the  ship,  where  the  cooks  threw 
overboard  meat  bones,  and  refuse  fragments  of  food  ; 
and  numbers  might  be  seen,  after  meal  times,  vorac- 
ious and  insatiable,  fighting  for,  and  devouring  the 
pieces  that  fell  among  them. 

One  of  the  most  noted  celebrities  of  the  Pacific 
coast  is  an  immense  monster  of  the  species,  known 
by  every  sailor  on  these  seas  as  "  TobogaBill."  They 
tell  anecdotes  of  his  huge  size  and  invulnerability, 
and  believe  that  he  has  digested  more  sailors  than  all  ^ 
the  cannibals  of  the  Feejees.  I  was  at  first  inclined 
to  believe  that  he  was  only  a  creation  of  the  imagina- 
tion ;  but  some  of  the  gentlemen  belonging  to  the 
Hassler  Scientific  Expedition,  have  since  had  an  op- 
portunity of  seeing  him  under  favorable  circum- 
stances, and  bear  witness  to  his  immense  size  and 
proportions.  According  to  their  account,  three  or 
four  men  would  make  him  but  a  meager  repast.  At 
night,  as  he  flashes  through  the  phosphorescent  water 
in  the  darkness,he  is  often  mistaken  for  an  approaching 
or  passing  boat.     One  night  on   watch  I  hailed  what 


"toboga  bill." 


I  suppo.^cd  to  be  a  boat  coming  along  .side,  but  on  a 
nearer  approach  I  could  hear  no  sound  of  oars  nor 
get  any  answer.  I  was  familiar  with  the  luminous 
appearance  of  the  water  when  disturbed  at  night, 
and  could  generally  judge  from  the  extent  of  the 
phosphorescent  trail,  whether  it  was  caused  by  boat, 
shark,  or  small  fish  ;  but  the  large  trail  of  light  dis- 
appeared suddenly,  close  by,  and  a  sailor  told  me  it 
was  only  Toboga  Bill.  He  lives  principally  here 
and  over  at  Toboga,  an  island  three  or  four  leagues 
off,  held  by  the  British  government.  He  makes  fre- 
quent visits  to  the  neighboring  coasts  and  islands, 
perhaps  to  collect  his  revenues  as  monarch  of  all  the 
sharks.  His  majesty's  age  is  not  set  down,  that  be- 
ing a  matter  difficult  to  investigate,  as  those  who 
have  had  the  fortune  to  examine  his  teeth,  always 
thereafter  remain  silent  on  the  subject. 

The  disturbances  among  the  politicians  in  Pana- 
ma, which  were  brewing  when  we  came,  finally  cul- 
minated in  a  "  revolution,"  as  it  is  called  here,  but 
more  properly  a  row  among  the  peo})le.  These  rev- 
olutions are  chronic  aflfairs  in  these  parts.  Instead 
of  marking  an  epoch  in  their  history,  they  are  al- 
most of  yearly  occurrence.  Home  jefe  politico  gets 
control  of  a  battalion  of  soldiers  and  some  public 
money,  and  forthwith  there  arc  proclamations,  little 
battles  and  sieges,  followed  by  all  the  disorders  of 
war  on  a  small  scale,  and  ending  in  courts-martial, 
military  executions,  and  more  proclamations.  Then 
affairs  subside  into  a  precarious  quiet,  to  await  the 
next  emeute,  which  may  he  expected  to  occur  before 
many  months  have  passed. 


M 


t 


I'll 


il 


60 


REVOLUTION. 


Such  a  one  was  that  which  broke  out  in  April. 
On  the  6th  I  went  ashore  with  a  party  to  protect 
the  American  consulate.  The  buildings  under  our 
flag  were  pretty  well  crowded  with  the  families  of 
some  of  the  principal  inhabitants,  placed  here  for  se- 
curity. The  streets  were  barricaded  in  places,  and 
what  little  fighting  there  was,  occurred  in  the  streets 
and  suburbs.  Both  parties  talked  pompously  of  lib- 
erty, and  such  things,  but  took  good  care  to  keep  as 
much  as  possible  out  of  range  of  each  others  guns. 
Stray  bullets  were  flying  about,  rendering  it  unsafe 
to  promenade  the  streets.  Our  duty  was  to  stand  by 
the  consul,  and  see  that  while  the  bellicose  native* 
were  big  with  their  own  dignity,  they  did  not  forget 
the  dignity  of  Uncle  Sam,  or  the  respect  due  him. 
The  pretty  senoritas  at  the  consulate  seemed  well  sat- 
isfied to  be  safe  under  the  stars  and  stripes,  while 
their  relatives,  with  blunderbusses,  argued  the  mo- 
mentous question  as  to  who  should  hold  the  reins  of 
unstable  power  in  this  out  of  the  way  part  of  the 
world. 

The  fighting,  however,  was  not  very  sanguinary. 
Two  or  three  of  us  reconnoitered  cautiously,  but 
found  the  streets  deserted  and  the  houses  shut  up. 
Out  near  the  old  walls  the  troops  were  stationed,  to 
defend  a  road  giving  the  best  chance  of  assault. 
The  city  walls  are,  in  places,  broken  down  to  make 
roads,  but  the  portions  remaining,  with  the  deep 
ditch,  or  moat,  outside,  make  this  a  place  easy  to 
hold  and  defend.  The  walls  were  well  built  when 
first  constructed,  and  surmounted  with  towers,  or  sea- 


i 


OFF    TO   SEA. 


61 


try  stations,  at  intervals.  Tiie  black  cormorants,  or 
buzzards,  that  are  very  numerous  here,  usually  stand 
^uard  upon  them  now 

The  night  came  on  but  was  comparatively  quiet. 
We  slept  on  our  arms,  expecting  at  any  time  to  ;jee 
the  fray  begin,  as  was  anticipated  in  case  of  assault 
and  capture  ;  but  nothing  of  the  kind  occurred.  The 
sentinels  passed  their  calls  every  half  hour,  and 
doubtless  kept  a  vigilant  lookout,  in  order  to  get  a 
good  start,  and  lose  uo  time  on  the  run,  if  the  enemy 
appeared. 

The  next  day  we  were  ordered  aboard,  as  the  Ad- 
miral was  on  the  point  of  leaving.  We  turned  over 
our  duty  of  watching  the  mimic  war,  to  a  party 
from  another  ship  in  the  harbor  ;  and  going  (m  board 
put  to  sea  immediately.  After  doubling  the  head- 
lands of  the  bay  we  shaped  our  course  up  the  coast. 


I  ■  rl 


ll 


i^ 


fit    i 


fii 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Jt'lylng  rtsh,  Wlialcs,  Tuitkw,  Ac-Bobos— Sea  Gulls -Arrival  at  Acapul- 
co— Town  and  llarlior— Commerce— TranHt'urred— Now  Quarforn-Visit 
BBliore— Mexican  SoldierH—lIonseB—ChnrclicH— Shops—  Si  re.' 1 1— Water 
(-'arrlers— A  contrast— News  of  tlie  Deatli  of  Lincoln, 

^0|URING  the  voyage  of  nine  days  to  Acapulco, 
*  nothing  occurred  worthy  of  especial  note. 
i^l^"  We  had  fine  weather,  a  quiet  sea,  and  all  the 
conditions  of  a  pleasant  trip.  The  sea  gulls,  bobos, 
porpoises  and  flying  fish,  with  other  denizens  of  the 
deep,  lent  variety  to  the  voyage.  Whales  were  fre- 
quently seen  at  a  distance,  but  as  we  were  not  blubber 
hunters,  we  did  not  call  on  them.  Several  times  we 
woke  up  immense  turtles  that  were  sleeping  comfort- 
ably on  the  water  in  our  track,  oblivious  to  all  things 
around  and  beneath  them. 

The  bobos  were  amusing.  They  would  often  alight 
upon  the  yards,  most  frequently  about  dusk,  and  were 
easily  caught.  They  do  not  fly  away  when  ap- 
proached, but  stand  staring  at  you  with  a  silly  ex- 
pression of  apprehension  that  is  most  ludicrous.  They 
evidently  fea]',  but  do  not  seem  to  have  the  instinct 
of  self  presoi'vation  greatly  developed.  The  boy& 
climbed  after  them  in  the  rigging,  and  Dad,  whom 
I  have  mentioned  before,  was  very  expert  in  catching^ 
them.  When  brought  on  deck  the  bobo  looked  and 
acted  silly  enough  to  deserve  his  Spanish  name,  (i.  c 


f 


AHHIVE   AT   ACArULCO. 


63 


bobo,  fool.)  Not  being  able  to  vise  in  the  air  from  a 
hard  flat  surface  like  the  deck,  and  unused  to  the  sit- 
uation, it  would  throw  itself  forward  on  its  breast,  in 
vain  and  awkward  efforts  to  swim  and  escape. 

I  was  surprised  ai  the  powers  of  flight  possessed  by  . 
the  sea  gulls.  They  never  seemed  to  weary  or  need 
rest;  and  seldom  were  they  seen  in  the  water.  Oa 
such  restless  wings,  with  such  exuberant  powers,  it 
would  seem  a  small  matter  to  explore  every  nook  and 
corner  of  the  globe,  from  pole  to  pole,  wherever  the 
waters  reach. 

We  reached  Acapulco  on  the  16th,  and  ran  inta 
one  of  the  finest  harbors  in  the  world.  Our  gun-fire 
was  answered  by  one  or  two  other  ships  of  war  at  an- 
chor, and  a  salute  to  the  Castillo  de  Santiago  was 
returned.  This  old  fort  is  one  of  the  first  objects 
that  attract  attention  on  entering  the  harbor.  It  is 
built  on  an  eminence  projecting  into  the  bay,  and  the 
high  walls  are  surrounded  by  a  deep  ditch.  It  re- 
minds one  very  much  of  a  castle  of  the  Middle  Ages, 
and  indeed  it  is  quite  old.  Next  appear  the  white- 
washed adobe  houses,  glaring  in  the  sunlight  to  the 
left  of  the  fort.  Beyond,  green  hills,  rising  into 
mountains  in  the  interior,  with  groves  of  cocoa  trees 
to  the  right  of  the  fort,  complete  the  picture. 

The  harbor  of  Acapulco  is  land  locked,  and  the 
ocean  being  entirely  shut  out  from  "view  at  the  an- 
chorage, it  has  the  appearance  of  a  quiet  and  beauti- 
ful lake,  sleeping  in  seclusion  among  rocky  hills  and 
wooded  mountains,  safe  from  every  storm  and  gale. 

Though  blessed  with  so  good  a  harbor,  Acapulco 


■I 


l.S 


I  m 


\r 


!     I 


■    ''I 


|5  ' 


m 


64 


NEW   QUARTERS. 


has  very  little  commerce  or  trade  at  the  best.  For- 
merly, in  her  palmy  clays,  the  Manilla  treasure  ships 
arrived  and  departed  annually,  and  fabulous  wealth 
of  gold,  silver  and  useful  commodities,  passed  through 
this  port,  to  and  from  the  Phillipines;  but  hostile 
powers,  and  the  changes  wrought  by  time  in  the  af- 
fairs of  nations,  put  an  end  to  the  traffic.  At  pres- 
ent, instead  of  being  the  depot  of  a  rich  commerce, 
the  port  is  used  as  a  coaling  station  by  the  steamships 
which  carry  past  it  the  gold«;u  freight  of  a  region,  as 
little  regarded  formerly,  as  Acapulco  is  now.     ' 

A  few  days  after  our  arrival,  a  number  of  us  were 
transferred  i'rom  the  flagship  to  the  Saranac.  I  made 
the  change  without  regret,  for  six  months  aboard  the 
flagship  was  long  and  monotonous  enough.  I  wanted 
to  stay  longer  on  the  Mexican  coast,  partly  to  learn 
the  language,  and  partly,  because  I  preferred  a  for- 
eign station  to  going  at  once  to  San  Francisco,  which 
I  would  visit  anyway,  sooner  or  later.  Though  our 
new  home  was  a  smaller  ship,  almost  by  half,  I  found 
the  service  much  preferable,  and  the  novelty  of  change 
was  an  agreeable  episode  which  dissipated  for  a  time 
the  ennui  of  a  monotonous  life.  Our  new  quarters 
were  pleasanter  than  the  old,  and  I  was  at  once  among 
a  diflerent  crew,  with  faces,  features,  and  experiences 
new  to  me.  The  forming  of  new  acquaintances  was 
a  pleasure,  and  marked  an  era  in  a  humdrum  life  of 
sameness.     Only  those  who  have  lived  for  months  or 

years 

"In  the  rank  and  narrow  ship, 

Housed  on  the  wild  sea  with  wild  usages," 

know  how  to  appreciate  any  change  that  gives  variety. 


.jfi, 


m 

as  f-il 


NATIVES — CHURCHES. 


65 


In  a  few  days  the  flagship  proceeded  to  San  Francisco, 
while  we  remained  at  anchor. 

I  went  ashore  to  take  a  look  at  the  place.  Aca- 
pulco  at  this  time  was  occupied  l)y  the  military  under 
command  of  General  Alvaredo,  who  is  also  the  Gov- 
ernor. The  power  of  Maximillian  had  not  yet 
reached  thus  far.  The  soldiers  were  numerous  enough, 
but  not  well  disciplined  or  organized.  The  Mexicans 
of  these  parts  have  much  of  the  aboriginal  blood,  and 
are  small  of  stature.  Enervated  by  a  tropical  cli- 
mate, or  lacking  the  stamina  of  purer  European  ex- 
traction, their  prowess  as  warriors  is  not  equal  to  the 
average  Mexican.  A  vast  horde  from  these  regions, 
under  another  Alvaredo  of  the  ruling  family  here, 
were,  during  the  Mexican  war,  engaged  in  the  defence 
of  the  city  of  Mexico,  against  our  army. 

The  houses  were  mostly  of  adobe,  some  of  thc:ii 
very  old,  and  all  built  after  patterns  unknown  to  our 
northern  builders. 

I  visited  the  ruins  of  an  old  church,  of  which  only 
the  tower  is  standing,  a  conspicuous  object  from  the 
bay.  The  old,  old  Spansh  bells  were  in  the  same 
place  w'nere  they  rang  out  their  joyful  peals,  or  sol- 
^.•mn  notes  of  sorrow  for  the  ears  that  heard  in  a  by- 
gone century. 

I  visited  also  the  church  on  the  Plaza,  a  barn-like 
structure,  with  earthen  floor  and  bare  rafters,  orna- 
mented with  a  wax  figure  of  the  Virgin,  and  a  few 
colored  prints.  Two  devotas,  or  pious  females,  were 
kneeling  at  the  altar,  and  rattling  off  their  prayers 
like  children  reciting  verses  in  a  backwoods  Sunday 


i      \ 


,i-— ^i 


11 


66  ' 


STREET  8CENE8. 


1!,;  ' 


I     r 

( 

! 

fc; 

L .  ' 

\    S' 

:  1 

1    !-■  ■ 

! 

school.  They  turned  to  scrutinize  us  without  inter- 
rupting; their  devotion?,  and  while  so  employed,  I  do 
not  know  how  many  ave  marias  or  pater  noster's 
may  have  been  wasted  upon  Uf^. 

I  called  also  at  numerous  tiendas,  or  shops,  to  look 
at  the  merchandise,  and  see  what  manner  of  men  the 
shopkeepers  were.  Their  stock  in  trade  consisted 
principally  of  prints,  light  muslins  and  cheap  novions. 
The  saleiimen  were  brisk  and  foppish  miilattoes,  or 
the  half  Spanish  natives. 

We  promenaded  the  streets,  sometimes  in  the  mid- 
dle and  .-iometimes  on  the  sidewalks,  where  there  were 
anv,  and  at  every  turn  were  reminded  that  we  were 
in  a  strange  laud.  The  sidewalks  in  places  were 
lined  with  men,  women  and  girls,  who  sold  simple 
notions,  adapted  to  the  wants  and  tastes  of  the  rural 
population,  which,  on  market  and  holidays,  thronged 
the  streets.  Donkeys  loaded  with  every  kind  of 
country  produce  were  wending  their  way  to  the  mar- 
ket place  on  the  Plaza,  or  returning  with  empty 
panniers  to  their  rural  retreats.  The  mule-mounted 
watermen  were  crying  the  qualities  of  their  commo- 
dity, which  they  carried  in  huge  jars,  slung  pannier 
wise  on  their  docile  and  patient  animals.  As  evening 
drew  on,  a  large  crowd  collected  on  the  Plaza,  with 
eggs,  fowls,  fruits,  and  other  things  from  the  country, 
to  be  on  hand  at  market  early  next  morning. 

Th(  streets  piesented  an  animated  appearance,  and 
everywhere  were  the  signs  of  plenty  and  comfort.  At 
this  time  the  })opulation  was  estimated  at  about  ten 
thousand  inhabitants ;  and  Acapulco,  for  a  Mexican 


^^n 


LINCOLN  S   DEATH. 


67 


city,  was  prosperous  and  flourishing.  The  life  and 
activity  presented  by  the  throngs  of  well-fed  natives 
from  the  country,  and  the  better  dressed,  but  not  more 
civilized  denizens  of  the  town,  made  a  great  contrast 
with  the  deserted  and  dreary  appearance  of  the  place, 
after  the  war  of  the  empire,  with  devastating  battles 
and  seiges,  had  here,  as  elsewhere,  preyed  upon  the 
life-blood  of  Mexico. 

We  returned  on  board  in  the  evening,  well  pleased 
with  our  day  of  new  sights  and  experiences. 

On  the  29th,  by  the  arrival  of  the  mail  steamer,, 
we  heard  of  the  assassination  of  President  Lincoln. 
The  intelligence  shocked  and  overwhelmed  us  with 
grief,  and  spread  a  visible  sadness  and  gloom  on  every 
face.  Even  the  roughest  and  least  intelligent  of  the 
sailors  expressed  in  some  way  their  sorrow.  Lincoln 
was  venerated  by  ev  on  the  lowly  and  obscure.  Rough 
and  hardy  sailors,  seemingly  destitute  of  all  social 
ties,  and  cut  off'  from  home-life  influences,  bore  a 
tender  regard  for  the  good  and  honest  man  they  had 
never  seen.  Our  flag  was  half-masted,  and  the  next 
day  from  sunrise  to  sunset  we  fired  minute  guns.  The 
officers  put  on  mourning,  which  was  worn  for  thirty 
days. 


•    -I  !  'ffl 


ti!i 


II 


%:  ^ 


til 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Trip  to  Rio  Dulce— Au  Escape— Shore  and  People— Cat  Fishing  at  Sea— Red 
Fish  and  Moon  Fish— Shark  Fishing— Shark's  Tenacity  of  Life— Re- 
turn > 


^EX  days  after  coming  ou  board,  ray  new  routine 


of  duties  aud  amusements  were  varied  by  an 
expedition  to  the  month  of  the  Rio  Dulce,  a 
small  Stream  emptying  into  the  ocean,  thirty  or  forty 
leagues  southeast  of  Acapulco.  Our  object  was  to 
take  soundings  and  examine  the  coast,  which  is  lit- 
tle known. 

The  weather,  as  we  got  to  sea,  was  very  warm,  and 
a  heavy  swell  reminded  some  of  us  that  sea  sickness 
might  exist  even  on  the  Pacific.  The  trip  was  a 
fihort  one,  but  our  progress^,  as  we  approached  the 
vicinity  of  the  Rio  Dulce,  was  slow,  on  account  of 
the  necessity  of  feeling  our  way  with  the  lead  amid 
the  unknown  dangers  of  this  part  of  the  coast. 

Three  or  four  miles  from  shore,  off  the  mouth  of 
the  river,  we  came  near  getting  on  some  rocks.  We 
were  going  along  with  plenty  of  water,  and  the  men 
on  the  wheel  houses  were  calling  out  the  depth  with 
sailor's  monotonous  drawl,  when  all  at  >j  ee  the  lead 
at  the  port  wheel  house  suddenly  indicated  about  five 
fathoms,  while  that  on  the  starboard  gave  deep  water, 
phowing  our  close  and  unpleasant  proximity  to  hid- 
den rocks.     For  a  moment  there  was  some  confusion. 


1 


THE   ElO    DULCE. 


69 


but  orders  were  giveu  with  promptness  and  executed 
with  dispatch,  so  that  our  vessel  was  saved  from  the 
danger,  drew  off  into  deeper  water,  and  dropped  an- 
chor. 

The  shore  and  mouth  of  the  river  were  about  a 
league  distant.  The  country  appeared  low  and 
marshy  for  some  distance  inland,  and  then  rising  in- 
to forest-covered  hills.  Along  the  shore  and  river  a 
thick  growth  of  tropical  trees,  interspersed  with  co- 
coa palms,  flourished  luxuriantly. 

Toward  evening  some  of  the  natives  came  off  ta 
us,  in  canoes,  with  yams,  cocoanuts,  and  other  fruits 
to  sell.  Their  prices  indicated  that  their  commerce 
with  the  rest  of  the  world  was  limited  ;  for  quartillos 
and  medios  would  buy  as  much  here  as  reales  at  Aca- 
pulco.  The  people  are  nearly  Indians,  having  a 
small  admixture  of  Spanish  blood. 

As  soon  as  we  had  anchored,  some  of  the  sailors 
hung  out  their  fish  lines,  and  with  such  success,  that 
soon  every  one,  who  could  muster  hook  and  line,  was 
on  the  side  and  hauling  in  fine  cat-fish  in  high  glee. 
Buckets  were  filled  and  carried  below.  The  cook 
had  his  hands  full,  and  the  galley  looked  like  a  stall 
in  a  well-stocked  fish  market.  Long  after  enough 
had  been  caught  to  supply  us  as  long  as  they  would 
keep,  the  men  fished  for  the  mere  pleasure  of  the 
thing.  These  catfish  were  of  a  nearly  uniform  size 
— being  eight  to  ten  inches  long — and  were  caught 
near  the  surface  of  the  water.  I  was  surprised  ta 
see  them  caught  at  sea,  as  I  had  never  seen  the  like 
before,  but  accounted  for  it,  by  supposing  that  we  had 


"i    '    I 


'^^m 


: !  i!t 


I 


1  ?. 


?5    a 


70 


FISH. 


happened  on  a  shoal  that  got  out  of  the  river ;  and 
this  idea  "vvas  suj^ported  by  their  seeming  preference 
of  the  stratum  of  river  water  wliich,  being  fresh, 
flowed  on  the  surface.  There  must  have  been  im- 
mense numbers  of  them,  judging  from  tlie  quantity 
caught  with  hook  and  line  in  so  short  a  time.  The 
next  day  they  had  nearly  all  gone,  and  we  only 
caught  now  and  then  a  straggler  from  the  main  body 
of  the  shoal.  As  the  sharks  were  numerous,  I  doubt 
not  but  that  they  and  other  fish  of  prey,  committed 
sad  havoc  in  the  adventurous  band  that  had  better 
have  remained  in  their  native  mud,  in  the  palm- 
shaded  waters  of  the  Rio  Dulce,  than  have  wandered 
in  search  of  adventures,  out  into  the  wide  world  of 
waters  to  such  a  sad  end. 

Beautiful  red  fish  were  as  plentiful  here  as  in  Aca- 
pulco  Bay;  and  also  a  singular  fish,  (Tetraodon 
inola,)  called  by  the  saik)rs  the  toad  fish,  and  by  oth- 
ers the  mooD,  or  globe  fish.  It  has  a  globular  form, 
and  is  thickly  covered  with  little  triangular  prickles. 
Its  little  mouth  is  circular,  and  has  four  white,  sharp 
teeth.  It  has  the  appearance  of  a  collapsed  toad 
generally,  when  first  caught.  If  irritated,  it  will 
swell,  or  inflate  itself,  by  swallowing  air,  almost  to 
burstin"-.  It  then  looks  like  a  tiuv  balloon,  with 
protruding  eyes  and  open  mouth,  on  the  top,  and 
lacking  only  a  little  basket  car  to  make  the  resemb- 
lance complete.  We  frequently  caught  them,  and 
might  have  been  tempted  to  use  them  as  a  substitute 
for  elastic  foot-balls,  had  not  the  sailors  had  a  fancy 
that  the  spines  and  flesh   were  venomous.     Though 


SHARK    FI8IIIXG. 


71 


i; 

ii: 


this  fish  showed  a  cai)ability  of  beiug  stretched,  and 
has  beeu  represented  as  being  of  great  size,  I  cau 
only  vouch  for  a  greatest  diameter  of  five  or  six 
inches. 

Sharks  were   very   numerous  and    easily  caught, 
and  all  kinds  of  experiments  were  practiced  by  the 
sailors   to  test  their  tenacity  of  life.     A  sailor  has 
about  as  much  mercy  on  a   shark   that  falls  into  his 
power,  as  the  shark  has  on  the  sailor  when  the  tables 
are  turned.     Shark  fishing  may  be  cruel  and   unnec- 
essary, but  it  is  grand   sport,  not  entirely  devoid  of 
danger,  and  may   be  obtained  all  along  this  coast. 
We  most  frequently   caught  them   when  fishing  for 
other  game.     It  is  generally   practiced  with  a  large, 
strong  hook,  attached  to  a   piece  of  wire,  to  prevent 
its  being  severed  by  the  sharp,  shearing  teeth  of  his 
sharkship  ;  and  this  wire  is  fastened  to  a  stout  line. 
If  you  have  about  sixty  fathoms  of  line,  or  more,  so 
much  the  better.     A  piece  of  meat,  or  anything  in 
the  shape  of  fish,  or  flesh,  will  do  for  bait,  as  sharks 
are  not   fastidious  about  diet.     Let  your  line   out 
slowly;   and    if  the  sharks  are  as   numerous   as  we 
found  them  at  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Dulce,  you  will 
not  have  to  wait  long  for  a  bite,  which  in  shark  fish- 
ing means  a   swallow.     Pull  gently,  and   the  shark 
will  find  it  more  comfortable  to  come  up  gradually. 
When  he  finds   what  is  above    him  he   will  dive,  or 
start  off  at  high  speed.     Give    him  line  when  he  is 
furious,  but  keep  it  taut  with  a  good,  strong,  steady 
pull,  until  he  lies   (piietly  along  side,  as  generally  he 
will  do  after  he  has  wearied  himself  with  fruitless  ef- 


•il;- 


Jl.il 


»■ 


11^.^^ 


i 


II 


72 


SHARK    FISHING. 


forts  and  the   pain  from    the    hook.     When  he  first 
comes  up  and  takes  in  the  situation,he  struggles  most 
furiously  ;  and  it  is  a  long  time  doubtful  which  indi- 
vidual, the  one  in  the  water,  or  the  one  on  board,  will 
retain  possession  of  the  line.     Sometimes  he   darts 
down  ten,  twenty,  or  thirty  feet,  and  it  may  be  comes 
up  on  the  other  side  of  the  vessel.  When  tired  out  he 
moves  slowly  in  the  water,  or  perhaps  lies  quietly. 
But  you  have  not  got  him  yet,  and  he  is  soon  rested 
enough    for    renewed  struggles.     As  he   cannot   be 
hoisted  out  of  the  water  with  the  line,  get  a  rope 
through  a  block,  or  a  watch  tackle,  with  a  running 
noose  on  the  end.     Put  your  line   through  the  noose^ 
and  let  the  noose  down  over  his  head.     This  will  re- 
quire careful  management ;  but  when  effected,  draw  it 
tight  just  behind  the  forward  fins,  and  then  hoist  him 
up,  A  better  way,  but  more  difficult,  is  to  harpoon  him,, 
and  then  haul  up  harpoon  and  shark  together.     The 
harpoon  must  be  sharp  and  well  aimed,  or  you  will 
not  penetrate  his  tough  skin  ;  and  he  will  then  prob- 
ably get  indignant  at  your  awkwardness,  and  go  off 
with  your  line  in  spite  of  you.     When  you  get  him 
on  deck,  give  him  plenty  of  room  to  use  his  tail.     If 
he  gets  a  fair  stroke  at  you  with  it,  you  will  propably 
be  surprised,  and  likely  hurt.     Get  a  noose  over  it> 
and  cut  it  off  with  an  ax  or  hatchet.     This  literally 
curtails  his  power  to  a  great  degree,  but  keep  out  of 
the  way  of  his  stump.     Don't  put  your  hands  or  feet 
in   his  mouth.     This   advice  has  been  neglected  by 
some  who  would  afterwards  have  reconsidered  the 
matter  and  acted  otherwise,  if  the  shark  had  aot  beea 
in  such  a  hurry. 


SHARKS   TENACITY   OF    LIFE. 


78 


The  sharks  tenacity  of  life  is  wonderful.  I  have 
seen  them  swim  away,  after  being  thrown  overboard, 
disemboweled  and  tailless. 

We  spent  a  week  sounding  and  examining  the 
coast  with  boats,  and  on  the  8th  of  May  returned  to 
Acapulco,  after  an  absence  of  eight  days. 


:i  ii 


iina-yT     i 


CHAPTER  X. 


Oommei-co  of  the  !?paiiish  Galluous. 


,  I  'Mi' 


i? 


ill?  t'  i 


IHILE  swinging  at  auchor  at  Acaimlco  over 
the  very  ground  occupied  by  the  Spanish 
galleons  centuries  ago,  the  reader  will  par- 
don a  short  digression  to  speak  briefly  of  their  cele- 
brated commerce.  For  a  more  particular  description 
we  refer  to  the  garrulous  old  writer  who  narrated  the 
memorable  voyage  of  Lord  Anson. 

This  trade,  as  is  well  known,  was  carried  on  be- 
tween the  city  of  Manilla  in  the  Philippine  Islands, 
and  the  coast  of  America,  across  the  whole. extent  of 
the  Pacific  Ocean.  Very  large  ships  were  used,  which 
made  an  annual  voyage.  In  its  infancy,  the  port  of 
Callao,  in  Peru,  was  made  the  depot  for  the  Spanish 
dominions  in  America,  and  from  thence  for  a  time, 
the  galleons  sailed.  From  Callao  to  Manilla,  between 
three  and  four  thousand  leagues,  the  voyage  was  often 
made  in  little  over  two  months,  on  account  of  the  fa- 
voring influence  of  the  trade  winds  in  that  latitude ; 
but  the  return  from" Manilla  was  always  tedious  and, 
on  account  of  haviug  to  beat  up  against  those  same 
winds,  is  said  to  have  sometimes  taken  more  than 
twelve  months.  In  consequence  of  this,  the  return 
route  was  subsequently  changed  to  the  high  northern 
latitudes,  whence  after  crossing  the  Pacific  they  fol- 


1 


COMMKHLE   OF   TIIK   GALLEONS. 


75 


lowed  the  coast  of  the  contiiient  down  to  Calhio.  lu 
order  to  shorten  this  h)U<x  and  dan;i'erous  v()ya<j;e  for 
the  treasure  ships,  the  trade  was  subse(|Uontly  trans- 
ferred to  Aeapuk'o,  where  it  remained  fixed. 

Manilla;  well  situated  for  the  India  and  Chinese 
trade,  in  a  fertile  and  fruitful  country,  collected  from 
all  those  regions, silks,  goldsmiths'  work,  and  maifu- 
factures,  particularly  silk  stockings,  of  which  it  is 
said  that  fifty  thousa  d  pairs  were  usually  shipped  in 
each  cargo;  vast  quantities  of "  calicoes  and  chintzes" 
and  many  other  articles  of  use  and  luxury,  wrought 
by  the  skillful  artificers  of  the  East. 

These  goods  were  embarked  in  one,  or,  at  most,  two 
annual  ships,  which  were  armed,  manned,  and  fitted 
out  at  the  expense  of  the  King  of  Spain.     The  ton- 
nage was  divided  into  a  certain  number  of  bales,  or 
equal  parts,  and  proportioned  among  the  convents  of 
Manilla,  principally  those  of  the  Jesuits,  as  a  dona- 
tion for  the  support  of  their  missions  in  propagation 
of  their  faith.     The  Convents,  or  others  who  bought 
these  freight  privileges  from  them,  shipped  such  (juau- 
tities  of  goods  as  the  tonnage  of  their  shares  amounted 
to.     The  trade  was  also  limited  to  a  certain  value  by 
royal  decrees.     This  value,  which  no  cargo  was  sup- 
posed to  exceed,  was  generally  six  hundred  thousand 
dollars ;  but  avarice  in  this  distant  part  of  the  world 
was  a  power  greater  than  the  will  of  kings  ;  and  the 
royal  arrangement  being  disregarded,  the  value   of 
the  annual  cargo  often  verged  upon  three  millions  of 
dollars,  and  was  seldom  less  than  one  million. 

The  ship,  when  fully  armed  and  manned,  carried  a 


m 

if:'. 


'■■:;H 


..^ 


HI 


76 


COMMERCE  OF  THE  (4ALLE0NS. 


force  of  fifty  gunss,  and  from  350  to  600  men,  though 
some  were  capable  of  cruising  witli  1200  men  aboard. 
When  freighted,  .she  sailed  from  Cubite,  the  port  of 
Manilla,  about  the  middle  of  July  ur<ually,  and  ar- 
rived at  Acapulco  in  the  December,  January,  or  Feb- 
ruary following.  '  The  usual  course  was  to  the  north- 
wfird  of  the  oOth  parallel  of  latitude,  then  across  the 
ocean  until  signs  of  land  were  found  in  the  floating 
seaweed,  when  a  southward  course  was  taken  to 
makejhe  land  at  Cape  San  Lucas.  After  discharg- 
ing cargo  at  Acapulco,  the  return  was  commenced 
some  time  in  March  ;  they  sailed  along  about  the  13th 
or  14th  parallel,  and  reached  Manilla  generally  in 
June.  Nearly  a  whole  year  being  thus  occupied,  it 
was  necessary  to  keep  several  ships  at  Manilla,  suita- 
ble for  the  service,  in  order  that,  in  case  of  delay, 
accident,  or  capture,  the  trade  might  not  be  suspended 
and  a  whole  continent  thrown  into  a  flurry  of  disap- 
pointn^'^nt,  by  a  non-arrival. 

On  the  long  voyages  from  Manilla  to  the  American 
coast,  which  were  seldom  of  less  than  six  month's 
duration,  their  anchor  was  never  down,  for  the  reason 
that  in  those  days  there  was  not  a  safe  harbor,  or 
roadstead  known  anywhere  near  their  route.  The 
Sandwich  Islands  were  yet  undiscovered,  the  course 
of  the  galleons  being  north  of  them,  going  east,  and 
to  the  south,  returning  to  Manilla.  In  so  long  a  voy- 
age, in  a  ship  crowded  with  people,  a  sufficient  sup- 
ply of  water  was  a  matter  of  the  first  consequence. 
The  heavy  lading  of  the  ship  left  little  space  for  that 
necessary  article;  but  the  default  was  remedied  by 


COMMEIlCi:   or    the   (iALLEONS. 


77 


recruitiiiu'  their  water  from  the  rains  at  sea  in  tlie  lat- 
itudes al)ove  30°  n(jrtli.  Tliis  (U'j)eu(leuee,  seemingly 
so  precarious,  never  failed  them,  and  they  always 
had  a  full  supply.  It  was  procured  by  spreadinjj 
mats  all  over  the  ship,  in  sueh  a  manner  that  they 
sloped  to  split  bamboo  troughs,  or  spouts,  which  car- 
ried the  water  into  jars  })lace(l  for  its  reception, 

AVhen  the  galleon  arrived  at  Acapulco,  she  was 
generally  moored  on  the  western  side  of  the  bay,  and 
her  valuable  freight  discharged  with  all  possible  ex- 
pedition. At  these  times  the  old  city  between  the 
hills  was  thronged  with  merchants  and  strangers  from 
all  parts  of  Mexico  and  Spanish  America,  and  doubt- 
less presented  a  scene  of  unusual  l)ustle  and  activity. 
The  cargo  having  been  landed  and  dis}>osed  of,  the 
silver  and  goods  consigned  to  Manilla  were  taken  on 
board  as  quickly  as  possible,  in  order  to  get  to  sea  on 
the  return,  before  the  first  of  April,  in  compliance 
with  express  orders  to  that  effect.  The  principal  re- 
turn freight,  being  silver,  occupied  so  much  less  space 
in  stowage,  that  it  was  customarv  to  mount  another 
lower  tier  of  guns,  increase  the  numl)er  of  hands, 
and  carry  out  a  company  or  two  of  soldiers  for  gar- 
rison duty  at  Manilla. 

Thus  year  after  year  for  centuries,  did  this  stream 
of  traffic  continue  to  pour  wealth  into  the  treasuries 
of  the  convents,  and  build  up  the  p(jwer  of  the  Jesuits 
in  America  and  the  East,  until  the  naval  enterprise 
of  England  and  vther  countries,  prying  into  the  se- 
crets of  the  Pacific,  pushed  into  these  wide  and 
unknown  waters.     Many   captures  were  made,  and 


I       f 


78 


COMMKRCE    OF   THE   (iALLEONS 


■.«!l. 


the  voyages  reiulei'cd  haztirdous.  New  channels  of 
trade  were  opened,  and  new  marts  were  found,  until 
in  time  the  commerce  of  the  galleons  ceased. 

It  is  remarkable  thai;  these  many  long  voyages 
across  the  Pacific  should  have  led  to  the  discovery  of 
so  few  islands,  in  a  sea  so  thickly  studded  with  them. 
It  is  strange  that  shijjs  should  continue  almost  for 
centuries  to  sail  past  the  Sandwich  Islands,  in  such 
close  proximity,  and  yet  never  sight  the  lofty  moun- 
tains, or  th<-  smoke  from  the  great  volcano  of  Hawaii, 
in  all  those  years.  It  is  a  comment  on  the  routine 
character  of  man,  even  in  his  grandest  achievements. 


If  ■ ': 


CHAPTER    XL 


Sleeping— My  Ocfupatio'is— Auifitcnr  Tliratricals— Actor  and  Arlist-Uaik- 
ditti  ashure— Tw.i  Slight  Adventurt'S. 


fS'OR  nearly  three  months  wc  swung  idly  at  anchor 
'^M-.  iii  the  beautiful  bay  of  Aeapuleo,  under  the  tiery 
<fi^^  tropical  sun.  Our  anchorage  was  exactly  the 
place  where  the  Manilla  galleon  rode  in  security  near 
a  century  and  a  half  ago,  while  Lord  Anson  kept  up 
his  long  and  wearisome  blockade  out  at  sea.  He 
waited  patiently,  but  in  vain,  foi-  the  rich  treasure 
ship  to  come  out  and  fall  into  his  hands  an  easy  prey, 
Disa})pointed  in  this,  he  sailed  away  to  meet  disasters 
paralleled  only  by  those  through  which  he  had  al- 
ready passed  ;  yet  in  the  end  lie  was  successful,  for 
he  captured  one  of  them  among  the  Philipiues,  and 
returned  enriched  to  England. 

We  kept  the  awnings  s})read,  and,  as  there  was 
little  to  be  done,  our  days  dragged  slowly  along  in  a 
monotonous  round.  We  ate  and  slept  with  wonder- 
ful regularity.  A  spirit  of  lassitude  and  indolence 
cast  a  somnolent  s[)cllupon  us,  and  many  of  the  men, 
yielding  to  the  so})orific  heat,  spent  tiie  greater  part  of 
the  day  in  sleep  on  deck,  in  the  cool  sea  breeze  which 
yeached  us  through  a  notch  in  the  hills  to  the  left  of 
the  town.  I  never  before  saw  so  ranch  sleeping  ac- 
complish'jd  in  the  same  length  of  time.  Stout,  strong 


OCCUPATIONS. 


nieu,  indiiliicdiu  fcom  one  to  two  hoi 
ibrenooD,  and  t'rcni  two  to  four  in 
The  warm  tropical  air  was  so  somu 
most  all  gave  way  to  its  suothing  inl! 
decks  at  times  were  covered  fore  an 
sleeping  crew  so  thickly  strewn  tha^ 
chance  for  a  pronieuader  A  fewindi 
so  addicted  to  sleep  that  it  was  oft 
wake  them  when  they  were  wanted  ; 
ially,  a  thick-headed,  stout-built  mech 
adelphia,  was  noted  for  dropping  ai- 
and  in  all  positions,  the  moment  he 
by  meals  or  the  ship's  duty.  Those  fe 
self,  could  not  sleep  in  daytime,  felt 
guor  and  drowsiness  which  made  li: 
like.  I  do  not  wonder  at  the  indoh 
tives  of  tropical  countries.  ' 

My  chief  occupation  when  our  lig 
done  was  the  study  of  the  .Spanish, 
which  required  much  mental  effort,  we 
mind,  as  well  as  the  body,  objects  to 
in  the  hot,  enervating  atmosphere  o 
I  read  all  the  l)ooks  I  could  get,  \s 
and  diligently  practiced  my  Spani 
such  unfortunate  natives  as  fell  in  m 

There  was  a  vcntrihxpiist  on  boar 
an  artist  and  an  actor.  He  orgai 
theatrical  company,  which  gaveoccu) 
uumber,  and  amusement  to  all.  Ht 
•scenery,  wrote  out  all  the  parts  for 
(as  there  was  only  one  copy  of  the 


i  ..  V*,,"' 


«..\q:, 


OCCUPATION'S. 


AMATEUR    THEATEK  ALS. 


81 


fcom  one  to  two  hours   sleep  in  the 

('in   two   to  four  in  the  afternoon. 

al  air  was  so  somniferous  that  al- 

y  to  its  soothing   inHuenee,  and  the 

ere  covered  fore  and  aft  with  the 

thickly  strewn  tha'    li.'ve  was  no 

nenader      A  fcwinilivi-iuals  l)eca)ue 

'ep  that    it   was   (jftcn  necessary  to 

they  were  wanted  ;  and   one  espec- 

ded,  stout-built  mechanic  from  Phil- 

)ted  for  dropping  asleep  anywhere, 

ns,  the   moment   he  was  unoccupied 

liip's  duty.     Those  few  who,  like  my- 

ep  in    daytime,  felt    at  times  a  lan- 

less    which   made   life   seem  dreani- 

ouder  at    the   indolence  of  the  na- 

countries. 

I)ation  when  our  light  duties  were 
dy  of  the  .Spanish.  I  found  studies 
luch  mental  eSort,  weari  jome,  for  the 
the  l)ody,  objects  to  severe  exercise 
atiug  atmosphere  of  these  regions, 
ooks  I  could  get,  which  were  few, 
practiced  my  Spanish  exercises  ou 
I  natives  as  fell  in  my  way. 
entrilocpust  ou  board,  wlio  wa^^  also 
actor.  He  organized  an  amateur 
ny,  which  gave  occupation  to  quite  a 
usemcnt  to  all.  He  painted  all  the 
it  all  the  parts  for  the  performers, 
y  one  copy  of  the  plays,")  gave  di- 


Tectious  and  instructions  at  rehearsals,  and  played 
the  heavy  parts  himself.  Besides  all  this,  he  added 
to  the  entertainment  by  giving  ventrihxpiial  [)erform- 
auces,  and  by  illustrating  in  original  and  extempo-, 
raneous  farces  the  California  Chinaman.  His  pow- 
ers of  ventriloquism  were  wo'.iderful.  He  could  also 
imitate  the  songs  of  birds,  and  give  the  sounds  and 
notes  so  perfectly  that  it  seemed  little  less  than  mi- 
raculous. He  wrote  a  good  hand  and  sketched  well, 
using  his  left  hand  at  everything.  A  sketch  of  Hon- 
olulu, which  I  sav;  him  make  with  his  left  hand,  was 
published  in  an  Iliusirated  weekly  paper.  The  ama- 
teur theatricals  were  very  successful  and  a  credit  to 
his  enterprise.  His  representation  of  the  Chinese 
washerman  was  excellent  and  exactly  in  character. 
This  salt-water  genius  was  a  small  and  spare  young 
man,  named  Livingston,  from  the  interior  of  Cali- 
fornia. 

The  performances  were  generally  on  board  in  the 
evening,  the  starboard  guns  forward  being  -hifted  to 
luake  room  for  the  stage,  The  awnings  were  dropped 
on  the  port  side  to  close  it  in,  and  the  dressing  room 
extended  back  into  the  regions  of  the  forecastle.  The 
stage  front  was  aft,  so  as  to  make  the  hurricane  deck 
serve  for  gallery  and  the  gangway  as  a  dress  circle  ; 
but  the  metropolitan  order  of  things  was  here  re- 
ver>ed,  the  otiicers  and  ladies  occupying  the  gallery 
and  the  crew  the  dress  circle.  Sometimes  there  was 
a  perfoiinance  ashore,  in  a  spacious  hall  near  the 
central  Phu-a.  Not  being  of  theatrical  tastes,  my 
assistance  was  limited  to  the  translation  and  co})yiug 


.'^m^i^ 


82 


ADVENTURE  ASHORE. 


of  the  programmes  into  Spauisli,  for  the  information 
of  the  natives.  General  xVlvaredo  and  family  at- 
tended one  of  the  performances. 

I  became  quite  familiar  with  the  streets  and  sur- 
roundings of  the  place,  and  several  times  visited  the 
Castillo  Santiago.  During  the  day,  a  stranger  was 
tolerably  secure  in  going  anywhere;  but  at  night  it 
was  not  safe  for  any  one,  who  might  be  supposed  to 
have  any  money,  to  venture  into  out-of-the-way  pla- 
ces. Frequently  drunken  sailors  have  ])cen  decoyed 
into  dark  lanes  oj*  alleys,  and  then  murdered  and 
robbed.  One  of  our  boatswain's  mates  met  with  a 
narrow  escape.  He  had  been  drinking  to  excess  with 
a  crowd  of  the  "  baser  sort"  ashore,  one  evening,  and 
was  next  morning  found  on  the  road  to  the  fort,, 
robbed  and  bidddy.  His  throat  had  been  cut  from 
ear  to  ear,  but  fortunately  not  deep  enough  to  prove 
fatal.  He  recovered,  but  will  carry  the  unsightly 
scar  to  his  grave,  a  memento  of  the  Acapulco  ruf- 
tians. 

One  evening  in  J*jw\  ,  as  I  was  returning  from  the 
coca  palm  grove,  ^long  the  Calle  de  Mejico,  I 
turned  into  a  d»ck.  deserted  street,  which  seemed  a 
nearer  way  u  my  lo<%iQgs,  near  the  Pla/.a.  I  had 
advan  -ed  a  low  rods  only  from  the  lighted  street  into 
the  darkav.'sss,  whe*.  I  stiw  the  dark  outlines  of  a  man 
coming  (/:)wn  towwrds  me.  From  his  actions  it  ap- 
peared that  he  had  been  drinking.  Being  uuaraw^.1, 
and  not  wishing,  in  that  secluded  place,  any  conver- 
sation with  a  ilrunken  native  of  such  size  and 
strength,  arme<l  doubtless   with  a  sharp  v'UchiM'*,  or 


A    BANDITTI. 


83 


machete,  I  tried  to  avoid  him  by  stoi)i)iug  in  the 
shadow  of  the  de?«ei'ted  houses  until  he  should  pass 
without  seeing  me.  The  street  was  so  narrow  that 
this  expedient  failed,  and  he,  as  soon  as  he  perceived 
me,  came  up  and  demanded  to  know  who  I  was.  I 
answered  "  un  Americano,"  and  <juestioned  him  in 
turn.  He  began  talking  with  druidcen  volubility  in 
such  a  way  that  I  could  understand  but  little  of  what 
he  said.  1  made  out,  however,  that  he  wanted  me  to 
go  to  the  out-kii'ts  of  the  town,  where  he  promised  to 
find  "  atfuardientr  ij  niuchaehas  muy  bonitas.''  I  had 
uo  tk'sire  to  go  with  hirn  to  meet  assassins  and  rob- 
bers, and  refused.  He  took  my  arm  witli  rude  fa- 
miliarity, and  prop"-  I  to  go  any  way.  He  seemed 
to  be  much  >tron:'«'r  tlum  I,  and  besides  had  a  bright 
cuchillo,  or  sheath-knife,  in  his  V)elt.  As  I  was  not 
very  tractable,  ho  olt'eriMl  nie  a  tiask  of  vile  smelling 
Uipuvv.  as  a  more  powerful  pei.-?ua<!v  •,  and  when  I  re- 
l^vt  t\»^lr»«k  tho  stuff  he  drew  hi::  ki/ife  and  tlireat- 
<^tte«l  «t<*  savasivly.  .lust  then  sofne  men.  on  horse- 
back, probably  Mexican  officer'',  ca'iie  dashing  down 
ihtMhirk  j^>kI  n a n\nv  stivt^t.  When  tfiey  were  close 
up  h^  us  I  kuoi'ked  him  down,  more  ea^^ily  than  I  ex- 
pee^xMl,  and  in  the  !K>ise,  confusion,  and  darkness, 
hurried  past  the  hoj-semeu  up  the  i^treet.  I  never 
heard  or  sjwv  anything  of  bim  afterward. 

Pi-oev\'diug  up  the  street,  I  came  to  nu  open  •'pace, 
near  the  ruins  of  the  old  church,  dindy  lig^hted  by 
the  lam|»s  of  the  distant  Plaza.  Here  I  i>erce»r*,d  a 
crow<l  of  excited  natives  with  clul>s,  kniv'*<,  and 
>;tomvs,  and  in  the  midst  of  them  a   drunken  fm-iwan 


«4 


ANOTHER   ADVENTURE. 


fit' 


from  tlie.-'hii),  who,  unarmed  and  surrounded,  was  re- 
viling them  in  all  the  most  in.-^ulting  terms  of  his  lim- 
ited Spanish.  He  tried  to  \w  •>«  on,  but  they  kept 
him  back.  In  his  drunken  unconsciousness  of  dan- 
ger, he  challenged  them  to  fight,  called  them  cowards, 
and  used  an  epithet  unfit  for  ears  polite,  which  he 
happened  to  know,  and  which  is  the  grossest  insult  a 
j\[exican  can  conceive.  The  excited  and  savage  rab- 
ble crowded  around  him,  and  the  condition  of  affairs 
began  to  be  serious  and  alarming  for  the  foolhardy 
fellow.  Still  unperceived  in  the  dark  shadow  of  the 
wall,  I  was  calculating  the  chances  of  successful  in- 
terference, when  I  saw  among  the  crowd,  a  fellow 
whom  I  recognized  as  Manuel  Gordo,  who  claimed  to 
be  a  bugler  at  General  Alvarez'  headquarters,  and 
who  had  been,  a  few  months  previously,  ou  board 
ship  with  me.  K<jwing  his  fondness  for  aguardiente, 
his  ruling  passion,  and  that  he  had  some  influence 
with  the  rough  crowd,* I  went  up  to  him  and  asked 
him  to  interfere  and  let  the  fireman  go.  He  said  he 
could  not,  that  they  wanted  to  kill  the  fellow  because 
they  were  enraged  at  his  insults.  I  promised  him 
*'  dinero  j^ara  beber,''  and  taking  his  arm  pushed  in- 
to the  crowd.  By  this  time  the  fireman,  beginning 
to  see  his  danger,  was  getting  anxious  to  get  away. 
My  sudden  appearance,  and  p'"rha[)s  the  supposition 
that  I  had  companions  close  at  hand,  st(jpped  the  vio- 
lent proceedings  ;  and  during  the  momentary  indecis- 
ion, the  fireman,  ou  my  advice,  made  a  run  of  it,  and 
struck  out  for  the  Plaza  as  fast  as  he  could  go.  The 
cowards  did  not  choose  to  follow   him   into  the  light 


MANUEL. 


S5- 


of  the  lamp?^  on  the  square.  The  promise  of  some- 
thing to  driuk  kept  Manuel  dose  to  me ;  but  in  or- 
der to  get  away  from  the  disappointed  crowd  without 
a  volley  of  stones,  or  other  rough  usage,  it  was  nec- 
essary for  Manuel  to  jvromise  unlimited  quantities  ot 
the  ardent  liquid  at  my  expense.  I  have  no  doubt 
he  made  thi-  nuutal  reservation,  that  all  he  brought 
them  would  be  what  he  was  not  able  to  drink  him- 
self Arrived  at  the  Plaza,  1  gave  him  some  reales 
and  left  him.  The  next  morning  I  saw  him  almost 
too  drunk  tc  .>tand,  and  importunate  for  more  money. 


M 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Oft'  on  a  Cruise  for  the  r<henandoah— (»ft'  I't.  Oonceptioii-Tlio  (ialden 
— 31«ie  Islaiiil  -OldSliips— (ifVto  Sea— A  Storm  — Ks(iiiiiiialt,  V.  1.- 
Heiiil  liidiaiis-^CualiiiK-A  Tragedy— (tfl  tor  tin-  Sandwicli  Is  I 
—A  ToiniwHt— Fair  Weather  Again  — Visit  from  a  I$lue  bird  in 
Ocean— A  Floating  Spar- Water-Sponts— Kirs:  View  of  the  S 
wicnes. 


j)N  the  29th  of  July,  the  steamer  America 
f'  rived  with  news  of  the  depredations  be 
^^^?iP  committed  by  the  Rel)el  Cruiser  Shenandc 
among  the  whaling  vessels  in  the  north  Pacific, 
was  at  once  bustle  and  activity  aboard,  with  prepi 
tious  for  departure,  to  cruise  after  the  marau* 
The  next  day  at  noon  we  were  under  way  for  I 
Francisco.  We  put  to  sea  wnth  H.  B.  M.  Deva 
lion,  which  we  soon  left  far  behind. 

After  a  few  days  of  tolerable  weather  we  had  h 
winds,  and  a  rough  sea.     We  overhauled  and  .< 
every  vessel  we  saw  for  news  of  the  Sheuando 
precise  whereabouts,  but  got  very  little  informal 
Many  of  the  vessels  were  whalers,  a  long  time 
and  some  of  them  did  not  know  they  were  cx[ 
to  an  enemy. 

Off  Point  Conception,  which  sailors  call  the  ( 
Horn  of  California,  we  lowered   all  Awards  and 
masts,  and  with  stump  masts  and  steam  walked 
the  teeth  of  the  wind   which  assaulted   us   fron 
northwest.    Here  all  the  vear  round  there  is  a  I 


SI 


XII. 


't.  Conception— The  Golden  Gate 
AStorni— Ks'iuimalt,  V.  1.— Flat 
-uti  for  tlict  Siuuiwicli  Islamls 
Visit  from  a  IMue  bird  in  Mid 
unts— First   View   of    the    Sand- 


e  steamer  America  ar- 
the  depredations  being 
Del  Cruiser  Slienandoah, 
the  north  Pacific.  All 
ty  aboard,  with  })repara- 
se  after  the  marauder, 
vere  under  way  for  San 
with  H.  B.  M.  Devasta- 
jehind. 

3le  weather  we  had  head 
^e  overhauled  and  spoke 
?ws  of  the  Shenandoah's 
t  very  little  information, 
halers,  a  lung  time  out, 
know  they  were  exposed 

lich  sailors  call  the  Cape 
lercd  all  yards  and  top- 
ts  and  steam  walked  into 
1  assaulted  us  from  the 
ar  round  there  is  a  blow, 


HP' 


IX  AT  THE  g()L1)i:n  gati;. 


87 


with  few  sudden  variations  of  intensity.  For  weeks 
the  gale  maiiitaius  the  same  fury  and  velocity  under 
a  clear,  blue,  unclouded  sky.  J}y  day  the  briglit  sun 
and  by  night  the  stars,  glittering  unobscurcd,  witness 
the  unusual  phenomena  of  a  storm  wind  witliout 
clouds  or  rain.  The  sea  was  very  rough  and  the 
wind  whistletl  and  howled  through  our  diminished 
top  hamper,  in  one  nionotonous  key. 

Eleven  days  steaming  from  Acapulco  brought  us 
in  sight  of  the  Golden  Gate,  as  the  entrance  ta  the 
ample  bay  of  San  Francisco  is  called,  and  the  Cliff 
House  on  the  point  to  the  right.  Without  stopping 
at  the  city  we  proceeded  at  once  to  Mare  Island  up 
the  Bay,  to  coal  and  refit  for  a  long  cruise. 

Mare  Island  is  a  long  and  narrow  island  opposite 
Yallejo  in  Sonora  County,  and  admirably  situated  for 
use  as  a  navy  yard,  for  which  purpose  it  is  used  by 
the  government.  From  the  Napa  River,  where  we 
dropped  anchor,  the  officers'  houses  and  the  fine  brick 
barracks,  with  other  large  and  spacious  buildings 
used  as  store  houses,  present  an  agreeable  prospect. 
Here  moored,  were  various  vessels,  and  among  others 
the  old  line  frigate  Independence,  a  seventy -four  gun 
ship,  dismantled  and  decaying,  her  warfare  with 
storms  and  enemies  passed,  and  her  service  ended. 
Several'  other  hulks  of  the  olden  time,  like  old  heroes 
worn  out  in  the  service  of  their  country,  were  here 
ending  their  days  in  dignified  retirement. 

We  arrived  on  the  afternoon  of  Auirust  10th,  and 
to  give  us  a  speedy  departure,  all  the  forces  of  the 
yard  Awre  put  to  work,  and  no  time  lost.     The  next 


^•j 


88 


OFF    FOR    A    LONd    CRUISE. 


|)       M 


(lay  we  dropped  into  tlie  dry  dock,  were  hoisted 
out  of  the  water,  and  by  sundown  were  calked  :uul 
coppered  for  a  voyage  round  the  world,  if  need  be. 
Immediately  after  leaving  the  dock  the  coaling  com- 
menced, and  continued  without  intermission,  night 
and  day,  for  two  days,  during  which  time  we  took 
aboard  three  hundred  and  fifty  tons  of  coal.  On  the 
evening  of  the  13th,  seventy-two  hours  after  our  ar- 
rival, we  steamed  out  of  the  Napa  river  into  the  bay, 
and  began  our  long  cruise. 

On  account  of  a  thick  fog,  we  were  compelled  to 
anchor  off  Ft.  Point,  and  await  a  pilot.  The  next 
morning,  by  the  first  grey  streaks  of  the  dim  daylight 
we  were  wending  our  way  to  sea  in  a  foggy  mist. 

We  ran  two  days  for  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and 
then,  in  consequence  of  some  information  received 
from  a  passing  vessel,  put  about  for  Vancouver's  Is- 
land. We  hailed  every  passing  sail,  for  each,  until 
made  out,  was  a  possible  Shenandoah  to  us. 

On  the  17th  a  most  furious  storm  began  and  raged 
with  violence,  giving  me,  at  least,  my  first  decided 
taste  of  winter  on  the  ocean.  The  cold  rain  and 
north  winds  made  us  most  decidedly  uncomfortable. 
Our  late  ropical  experiences  had  not  fitted  us  to 
meet  with  unconcern  these  northern  blasts. 

Three  long  days  and  nights  wore  slowly  away,  and 
at  length  we  entered  the  Straits  of  San  Juan  de  Fu- 
ca.  Gladly  we  cast  anchor  at  Esquiraalt,  a  fine  har- 
bor surrounded  by  green  pine  forests.  The  scenery 
much  reminded  me  of  what  I  had  read  of  Norwegian 
landscapes.     This  port  is  but  a  short  distance  from 


:  f 


EStiUIMALT,  V.  I. 


80 


Victoria,  tlic  scat  of  thecolouial  ^ovcrntncnt  of  \'au- 
cuuvcr's  Lslaiul.  Several  British  nuMi-of  war,  includ- 
ing the  Clio,  were  here  at  anchor. 

Many  Fiat  Heail  Indians  still  inhahit  tlu-si!  parts 
and  are  objects  of  curicjsity.  Their  canoes  are  light, 
neat  antl  buoyant ;  and  many  of  their  manufactures, 
such  as  bows,  arrows,  pipes,  and  wash-basindiats, 
■well  constructed;  but  they  themselves,  one  and  all, 
appeared  to  me  the  most  di^igusting  and  wretched 
specimens  of  humanity  I  ever  beheld. 

On  the  night  of  our  arrival  we  were  warp(Ml  in  to 
the  wharf,  in  order  to  have  the  '*  coal  bunk(>rs"  re- 
filled. This  was  done  by  the  men  wheeling  the  coal 
from  the  wharf  over  the  bow.  While  thus  emi)l()yed 
some  of  them  procured  whisky  and  got  very  diutdc. 
Even  the  guard  stationed  on  the  wharf  to  prevent  the 
smuggling  of  liquor,  became  so  wild  and  unmanage- 
able himself  that,  under  the  influence  of  the  vile  stuff, 
he  shot  one  of  the  petty  officers  sent  to  relieve  him. 
Fortunately  the  Avound  which  penetrated  the  groin, 
though  dangerous,  did  not  at  once  prove  fatal,  and 
the  poor  fellow  was  afterward  discharged  a  cripple 
for  life.  The  guard  was  of  course  put  in  irons,  sub- 
sequently tried,  and  condemned  to  the  California 
State  prison.  The  drunkenness  and  excitement  that 
night  made  our  vessel  a  small  pandemonium. 

In  three  days  we  were  off  again,  and,  after  getting 
clear  of  the  fStraits,  bore  away  for  the  Sandwich 
Islands, 

A  day  or  two  of  moderate  weather  was  followed 
by  another  storm  and   hurricane.     The   blow   com- 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

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90 


STORM   AT  SEA. 


menced  in  the  night,  and  by  daylight  on  the  26th, 
the  winds  and  waves  w'cre  in  wild  commotion.  All 
day  the  fury  of  the  storm  increased,  and  we  were 
tossed  about  as  I  had  never  been  befor^\  Sometimes 
the  vessel  would  take  a  dive  into  the  almost  perpen- 
dicular side  of  an  advancing  wave,  and  stagger  and 
tremble,  like  a  drunken  man,  under  the  tremendous 
force  of  the  blow.  The  wind  hissed  among  the  waves, 
shattering  and  scattering  into  spray  their  irregular 
tops,  exposed  to  its  force.  It  roared  and  howled 
through  the  rigging,  and  around  us,  with  a  sad  groan- 
ing sound,  such  as  all  the  agony  of  all  the  ages,  if 
concentrated  by  supernatural  power,  might  give. 
The  overhanging,  flying  clouds  darkened  the  waves 
with  a  fierce  expression  of  gloom.  Though  staunch 
and  trim,  the  ship  labored  fearfully.  Part  of  the 
wheel  liouscs  were  washed  away,  and  planks  on  the 
guards,  six  inches  thick,  stove  in.  The  foremast  was 
.sprung,  and  one  of  the  main  stays,  of  chain  cable, 
parted  and  fell  rattling  over  the  smoke  stack  to  the 
deck.     Fortunately  no  one  was  killed  or  injured. 

Night  came  on,  but  few,  if  any,  slept.  Even  those 
not  on  duty,  instead  of  going  below,  collected  under 
shelter  of  the  hurricane  deck,  determined  to  see  the 
worst,  at  least  in  company.  The  negroes  aboard  were 
some  of  them  pictures  of  horror,  leaning  motionless, 
and  with  fixed  eyes,  against  the  railing ;  while  the 
water  shipped  forward,  washed  past  them  unnoticed 
and  unheeded.  It  seemed  to  them  the  day  of  doom. 
Pear  or  despair  was  depicted  on  the  countenances  of 
many  of  the  men.    Many  were  the  vows  of  reforma- 


IP 


NIGHT   IN   A   STORM. 


91 


tion  and  virtue,  prompted  by  a  cowardice  that  dreaded 
impending  death  more  than  the  consequences  of  vi- 
cious lives.  The  most  reckless  and  vicious  in  the  past 
were  now  the  most  solemn.  Young  M — ,  a  wild  and 
dissolute  young  man,  made  solemn  vows  of  reform 
and  future  good  behaviour  to  be  forgotten  when  the 
storm  was  over.  I  saw  him  a  year  or  more  after- 
ward, at  home,  dying  of  consumptitm,  and  he  refer- 
red to  his  broken  resolutions  with  great  remorse 

In  the  darkness  we  sheltered  ourselves  as  well  as 
wo  could  from  the  cold  wind  and  spray,  and  the 
night  was  spent  in  anxious  waiting  for  the  morning. 
The  hours  seemed  long  indeed,  and  that  night  was  an 
age  of  weird  watching.  Those  who  were  not  silent, 
told  stories  of  shipwreck  and  disaster.  A  sailor  who 
had  passed  nearly  all  his  life  at  sea,  minutely  detailed 
a  narrative  of  personal  dangers  and  escapes,  to  which 
I  had  never  heard  him  refer  before.  All  conversa- 
tion took  the  same  turn,  and  we  listened  eagerly  in 
the  very  presence  of  death.  There  was  a  comfort  in 
the  sound  of  the  human  voice  amid  the  horrible  rasr- 
ing  of  the  ocean. 

The  gloomy  night  at  length  was  over,  and  morning 
came.  The  smoke  stack  was  encrusted  with  salt 
from  the  spray,  from  top  to  bottom.  Showers  from 
the  waves  that  beat  on  the  bows  still  broke  over  the 
yards,  and  drenched  us  fore  and  aft.  As  the  dav 
passed  by  without  any  increase  of  the  violence  of  the 
gale,  we  began  to  hope  that  the  worst  was  over ;  and 
by  night  our  hopes  were  realized.  In  twenty-four 
hours  more  we  were  in  a  reasonable  sea,  and  Jack 
Tar  forgot  death  and  the  dangers  of  the  storm. 


I  < 


92 


A   BLUE   BIRD. 


In  a  few  days  more  came  fine  weather  and  fair 
winds.  The  waves  subsided  under  us,  instead  of 
over  us,  and  our  ship  "danced  gaily  over  the  blue 
deep" 

One  day,  half  way  from  the  Continent  to  the  is- 
lands, a  small  blue  bird,  weary  and  almost  exhausted^ 
came  aboard  It  certainly  could  not  have  come  from 
land,  for  we  were  nearly  a  thousand  miles  from  the 
nearest.  It  is  probable  that  it  had  escaped  or  been 
lost  from  some  ship.  What  a  lonely  and  wearisome 
flight  it  must  have  had  over  the  vast  reaches  of  water, 
before  it  at  last  espied  our  vessel,  a  small  speck 
in  its  far  distant  horizon.  Had  it  been  endowed 
with  speech  and  reason,  it  could  have  related  an  ex- 
perience of  most  absorbing  interest. 

Another  day  we  passed  a  floating  spar  covered 
with  barnacles,  indicating  that  it  had  been  long  in 
the  water,  but  with  nothing  else  about  it  to  give  any 
clue  to  its  past  history.  Where  were  the  ship  and 
crew  to  which  it  had  once  belonged?  What  poor 
fellows  may  have  clung  to  that  wood  despairingly, 
until  the  cold  waves  loosened  their  hold  on  it  and 
life  together  ?  We  could  not  know,  and  it  floated 
by,  alone  wit'i  its  secrets  known  only  in  the  eternal 
world. 

Early  one  morning  we  had  a  fine  view  of  several 
waterspouts  at  one  time.  They  were  at  a  considera- 
ble distance,  but  very  distinct  and  clearly  defined. 
Some  were  in  process  of  formation,  wliile  others  were 
breaking.  The  novelty  of  the  scene,  and  the  great 
size  of  the  columns  of  water  made  it  a  very  impres- 


HAWAII. 


93 


lal 


sive  view.  Of  course  all  hands  were  on  deck  to  see 
them,  and  we  watched  them  until  their  evanescent 
forms  were  swallowed  up  in  the  distance,  or  the 
ocean. 

Approaching  the  Islands,  we  necessarily  made  con- 
siderable southing ;  and  this  brought  us  again  into 
our  genial  climate  of  the  latitude  of  Mexico.  This, 
with  the  calm,  deep,  blue  sea,  and  clear,  bright  grey 
sky,  after  the  stormy  part  of  the  voyage  was  most 
delightful. 

On  the  5th  of  September,  as  I  was  idly  leaning 
over  the  ship's  side,  scanning  the  horizon  for  some 
new  object,  I  saw  a  dim  outline  which  seemed  denser 
than  clouds,  and  shortly  after,  the  man  at  the  mast- 
head reported  land.  We  were  off  the  east  coast  of 
the  island  of  Hawaii,  the  largest  of  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  We  came  closer  to  the  land  in  the  evening, 
and  saw  the  lofty  Koa  looming  magnificently  above 
the  fleecy  clouds,  that  hung  around  its  brow  caress- 
ingly, or  as  if  they  clung  for  support  while  they 
peered  from  its  high  peak  down  into  the  fires  of  Kil- 
Auea's  burning  lake.  It  sloped  away  on  the  left 
to  that  great  volcano.  We  passed  to  the  northward, 
and  as  the  different  islands  rose  in  view,  the  scene 
was  fine  indeed.  I  remained  late  on  deck,  watching, 
lest  some  object  of  interest  should  escape  me;  and 
when  I  retired  to  my  hammock,  it  was  with  the  pleas- 
ant consciousness  that  at  last  I  was  floating  among 
the  very  islands  of  which,  in  my  childhood,  I  had 
read  so  much  in  missionary  narratives,  and  which 
imagination  had  pictured  as  a  far  off  land  of  wonders. 


\m 


I  ■w 


I  % 


I 


I 


m 


li.i  I] 


.   ;! 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Appearance  of  (•ahu— News  of  the  ShenandoHli— Off  for  tlie  Marquesas— 
ileaawiDda  and  SQiialls-Kate  of  tlie  Levant— Crodsing  the  "Line"— 
Ocean  Scenes— Nukahlvu  Uay,  Marquesas  Islands— Cannil>aU— Catho- 
lic .MlssionarieH- Com.  I'orter  and  the  Essex— Scenery  of  Nukabiva 
Bay. 

^HE  next  morDing  when  I   came  on  deck    at 
,  _,<^  seven  o'clock,  we  were  iust  off  Diamond  Head, 


an  old  crater  forming  a  bold  point  about  four 
miles  from  the  town  of  Honolulu,  The  city  itself 
soon  appeared,  and  we  approached  and  anchored  in 
the  harbor. 

It  is  thought  by  some  that  Oahu  does  not  at  a  dis- 
tance present  a  very  inviting  appearance.  It  is  true 
that  the  crater-shaped  hills  around  are  barren  and 
bare ;  but  the  signs  of  life  and  cultivation  in  the  di- 
rection of  the  Nuuana  Valley,  by  the  contrast,  seem 
pleasant  and  cheerful,  and  especially  so,  did  they 
seem  to  us,  after  our  long  voyage.  The  town  itself,, 
a  collection  of  European  and  native  houses  nestling 
among  the  numerous  trees,  looks  very  picturesque, 
and  has  long  been  a  place  of  blessed  mem- 
ory to  sailors  ;  but  during  our  stay  this  time,  we  had 
no  time  to  satisfy  idle  curiosity.  Our  object  was  to 
get  to  sea  again  as  soon  as  possible ;  and  all  hands 
were  kept  busy  coaling  and  repairing  the  damages 
sustained  during  the  voyage.  As  we  returned  to 
Honolulu,  I  shall  have  more  to  say  about  it  in  an- 
other place. 


OFF   FOR   THE   MARQUESAS. 


95 


Our  news  here  from  the  Shenandoah  was  raeager 
and  indefinite.  Our  prospects  of  a  conflict  with  the 
pirate,  and  subsccjuent  prize  money,  did  not  grow 
brighter ;  yet  we  did  not  give  up  all  hopes  of  getting 
along  side  of  her.  On  the  contrary,  the  laurels  of 
Winslow  and  the  Kearsarge,  though  they  did  not 
keep  us  from  sleeping,  yet  acted  powerfully  on  our 
imaginations.  We  pictured,  in  fancy,  the  glory  we 
should  win  in  a  bloody  conflict  with  the  marauder. 
We  foresaw  all  the  incidents  as  we  would  have  them  ; 
our  eight  and  eleven  inch  shot  tearing  up  her  iron- 
sides, knocking  down  her  spars  in  fine  style,  and  fi- 
nally sending  her  to  the  bottom  in  the  presence  per- 
haps of  an  appreciative  audience  of  whaling  ships. 
It  is  true,  that  occasionally,  some  timid  croaker 
■would  suggest  the  possibility  of  a  vice  versa  arrange- 
ment— that  the  Shenandoah  might  send  us  down,  in- 
stead of  going  down  quietly  and  properly  h  erself — 
as  she  was  said  to  be  an  iron  ship,  while  ours  was 
wooden.  But  such  suggestions  met  with  little  appro- 
bation or  encouragement. 

In  a  few  days  we  were  ready  and  put  to  sea,  head- 
ing for  the  Marquesas  Islands.  We  thought  it  pos- 
sible that  Semmes,  who  was  in  command  of  the 
Shenandoah,  might  conclude  that  these  islands  would 
be  a  good  place  to  "  die  in  the  last  ditch,"  and  we  ac- 
cordingly proceeded  to  search  for  him  there. 

Head  winds  and  squalls  retarded  us  somewhat.  All 
yards  were  sent  down,  and  yet  we  made  good  head- 
way, notwithstanding  the  condition  of  aflTairs.  Oc- 
casionally terrible  storms  visit  this  part  of  the  ocean. 


^fi 


96 


NEAR  THE   "LINE." 


I  ill  II 


The  United  States  ship  Levant,  with  her  two  hundred 
officers  and  men  sailed  into  this  very  sea  and  was 
never  heard  from  afterwards.  The  gallant  ship  had 
won  a  place  in  history  by  a  glorious  career,  and  here, 
fully  armed,  manned,  and  equipped,  she  disappeared 
forever  from  her  "  stage  of  action,"  leaving  no  trace, 
or  raetnento,  save  a  sad  memory  for  all  who  wei'e  con- 
nected with  her  crew  by  ties  of  friendship  or  con- 
sanguinity. Long  was  she  searched  for,  and  long 
talked  of  by  the  navy,  but  never  more  returned  her 
white  sails  to  gladden  friends  or  country. 
,  On  the  26th  we  were  near  the  Equator,  and  «ome 
of  the  old  salts  made  dire  preparations,  in  accord- 
ance with  the  time-honored  custom,  to  receive  Nep- 
tune in  proper  style.  I  had  an  impression  that  these 
quaint  old  ceremonies  had  become  obsolete,  but  was 
informed  that  they  are  still  very  commonly  practiced 
on  board  the  ships  of  various  other  nations  as  well  as 
our  own.  Old  hoops  were  rudely  sharpened  and 
fashioned  into  huge  razors,  other  preparations  were 
made,  and  lists  made  out  of  those  to  be  put  through 
the  mysterious  rites.  As  about  half  our  crew  had 
never  been  across  "the  line,"  and  were  in  conse- 
quence subjects  for  initiation,  these  arrangements 
caused  considerable  consternation  and  excitement 
among  the  novices,  as  the  ceremony,  if  proceeded 
with,  would  be  no  jest  to  them.  The  list  was  headed 
with  the  name  of  an  officer,  the  son  of  a  distinguished 
western  senator,  who  viewed  the  preparations  from 
the  hurricane  deck  with  much  trepidation  and  alarm. 
He  was  somewhat  comforted  when  told,  that  in  very 


MUKAHIVA    BAY. 


97 


rare  cases,  a  kuiu  of  money  would  purchase  exemp- 
tion from  the  rougli  handling  of  the  myrmidons  of 
Neptune.  He  was  again  however  much  cast  down 
when  informed  that,  on  this  occasion,  money  would 
not  be  accepted,  and  that  he  must  expect  to  be  pr(»p- 
erly  initiated  in  due  time.  It  turned  out,  after  all, 
greatly  to  his  relief,  that  those  who  had  never  crossed 
the  line  were  so  numerous  and  so  determined  to  re- 
sist, that  they  made  the  undertaking  too  great  to  be 
attempted  ;  consequently  all  escaped,  and  the  shav- 
ing with  old  hoops  and  saws,  and  washing  with  bilge 
water  were  dispensed  with. 

Sept.  27th.  The  weather  very  fine.  The  wavelets 
at  rest,  while  a  long,  stately  swell  heaves  us  up  and 
lets  us  down  quietly  as  we  fly  over  the  blue  depths. 
Flying  fish  in  shoals  rise  up  and  skim  along  over  the 
smooth  undulations  to  disappear  again  in  the  ocean. 
Numerous  fleets  of  the  tiny  physalia,  or  "  Portuguese 
men-of-war,"  as  the  sailors  call  them,  are  seen  all 
around.  These  beautiful  and  curious  creatures  of 
the  ocean,  floating  before  the  breeze  with  their  tiny 
sails,  add  much  interest  to  the  scene. 

September  30th,  at  10  a.  m.,  we  dropped  anchor  in 
the  wild  and  romantic  bay  of  Nukahiva  in  one  of 
the  Marquesas.  The  irregular  volcanic  mountains, 
with  hanging  rocks  of  grotesque  shapas  poised  so 
precariously  that  it  seemed  as  if  the  wind  might  at 
any  moment  bring  them  down  in  an  avalanche,  ver- 
dant groves  of  cocoa  and  orange  trees,  half  hiding 
native  huts,  and  the  thickly  wooded  sides  of  the 
hills,  broken  here  and  there  by  a  bare  water  course, 


% 


iili  i 


I  i 


W  CANNIBALS. 

all  combined  to  form  an  interesting  an<l  picturesque 
scene. 

Tattooed  natives,  nearly  naked,  came  off  to  us, 
bringing  fruits  to  sell.  They  were  of  medium  stature 
and  well  formed,  but  with  unattractive  features. 
These  people 'have  been  voracious  cannibals,  and 
broiled  or  roasted  missionary  was  an  article  of  diet 
once  highly  prized  here.  The  French  authorities 
have  endeavored  to  prevent  their  indulgence  in  this 
little  luxury,  and  have  to  a  great  extent  succeeded, 
for  we  saw  no  signs  of  its  use.  The  supply  had  evi- 
dently run  out,  or  was  reserved  exclusively  for  homo 
consumption  by  the  chiefs  and  warriors  in  districts 
remote  from  the  surveillance  of  the  French. 

An  old  chief,  tattooed  from  head  to  foot,  came  on 
board  and  gave  us  a  harangue  with  most  outlandish 
gestures,  grimaces  and  attitudes.  The  untamed  sav- 
age acted  more  like  a  madman  than  like  a  respect- 
able, well  fed  cannibal.  A  few  ornaments  about  his 
head,  and  a  spear,  constituted  about  all  his  attire. 

The  French  have  a  small  force  here  and  occupy 
the  islands.  Catholic  missionaries,  under  their  pro- 
tection operate  among  the  natives  and  use  every 
means  to  eradicate  their  app3tite  for  human  flesh. 
We  saw  a  procession  of  them  in  white,  going  to  mass 
very  early  in  the  morning.  I  have  no  doubt  these 
native  christiatis  would,  if  they  dared,  roast  and  eat 
their  pious  teachers  much  more  eagerly  than  they 
now  listen  to,  or  receive  their  instructions. 

There  were  a  few  persons  here  who  claimed  to  be 
Americans,  and  expressed  great  satisfaction  to  hear 


rORTER  AND   THE   ES8EX. 


99 


of  the  end  of  the  war.  I  believe  one  of  them  said 
that  their  last  news  was  of  ^hc  battle  of  Chancellors- 
ville.  Persons  have  remained  here  for  many  years, 
cut  off  from  all  the  world  by  the  wide  expanse  of 
ocean  that  surrounds  the>e  unimi)ortant  and  unfre- 
quented islands.  Vessels  seldom  toucli  here ;  and 
consequently  the  chances  of  gettinp;  a  passage  from 
them  are  few  and  far  between.  The  climate,  how- 
ever, like  that  of  all  this  latitude,  is  genial ;  and  the 
inhabitants  require  very  little  protection  from  the 
weather. 

This  place  is  noted  in  the  history  of  the  navy  for 
the  events  which  transpired  here,  during  the  stay  of 
the  Essex  and  her  prizes,  under  the  gallant  Porter^ 
more  than  fifty  years  ago.  The  situation  of  the 
Essex  at  that  time  was  sufficiently  remarkable. 
"More  than  ten  thousand  miles  from  home,  with- 
out colonies,  stations,  or  even  a  really  friendly  port 
to  repair  to,  short  of  stores,  without  a  consort,  and 
otherwise  in  possession  of  none  of  the  required 
means  of  subsistence  and  efficiency,  she  had  boldly 
steered  into  this  distant  region,  where  she  had  found 
all  that  she  required,  through  her  own  activity  ;  and 
having  swept  the  seas  of  her  enemies,  she  had  now 
retired  to  these  little  frequented  islands  to  refit,  with 
the  security  of  a  ship  at  home.  It  is  due  to  the  offi- 
cer, who  so  promptly  adopted,  and  so  successfully 
executed  this  plan,  to  add,  that  his  enterprise,  self 
reliance,  and  skill,  indicated  a  man  of  bold  and  mas- 
culine conception,  of  great  resources,  and  of  a  high 
degree  of  moral  courage ;  qualities  that  are  indispen- 


h  I 


i  i' 


100 


SCENERY, 


h:  ': 


sable  in  forming  a  naval  captain.  The  cruise  of  the 
Essex  was  certainly  one  of  the  most  notable  in  the 
nnnals  ot  naval  warfare,  und  Porter's  Narrative,  in 
which  it  i.s  described,  has  more  than  the  interest  of  a 
romance. 

The  scenery  of  Nukahiva  is  very  grand  and  ro- 
mantic. I  wished  much  to  remain  longer  to  visit  the 
verdure-ccvered  hills,  and  see  if  the  enchantment 
which  "distance  lends  the  view"  would  vanish  upon 
a  nearer  opproach.  For  a  while  at  least,  it  could  but  be 
delightful  to  lose  one's  self  in  wild  scenes  of  beauty 
in  this  little  corner  of  creation,  so  far  remote  from  pop- 
ul  lus  lands.  At  sunset  the  scene  was  gorgeous,ay,  glo- 
rious !  There  were  such  blendings  of  golden  light 
and  verdant  shade,  such  contrasts  of  the  colors  of 
sea  and  sky,  of  hill  and  valley,  of  bare  brown  rocks 
and  green  groves,  as  words  can  never  describe,  or 
pencil  paint. 


m 


CHAPTER  Xr\. 

Up  Anchorandofr  for  THiiIti— I.iw  Archipelago— App'trauuo  of  Tiihiti— 
It*  Heiiiity -I'liplpte  Coral  |{i>Ht°  aii<l  TraiiHpiirency  of  i  lip  \Vnfcr— 
View  from  the  AnchoraKo  -Kriilta  lunl  Shells  -MooiillRht  Daricott 
aboaril-  lliir'iiie  Oliiiipjc  -Krmiuh  SoldierH  -'I'ho  DisHcrlcil  Wife  Ma- 
tavla  Hay— ContruHt  with  tho  rast-Tliedayof  Captvin  WalliB'  Arrivnl 
—To  Honuliilu. 


ijAKLY  iu  the  morning  all  hands  were  called. 


iM  the  anchor  hove  up,  and  at  daybreak  we  di- 
J^  rected  our  course  toward  the  island  of  Tahiti. 
Three  days  after,  we  wore  among  the  islets  of  the  Low 
Archipelago.  These  are  very  numerous  and  many 
of  them  so  low  that,  being  covered  with  trees  and 
foliage,  they  have  the  appearance  of  clumps  of  shrub- 
bery upon  the  ocean.  T  believe  they  are  mostly  un- 
inhabited, though  frequented  by  the  natives  of  the 
neighboring  islands  for  the  purpose  of  fishing,  and 
searching  for  rare  and  beautiful  shells. 

The  next  morning  Tahiti  came  in  view.  Words 
would  scarcely  describe  the  pleasure  I  felt  when  first 
I  saw  the  peaks  Orohena  and  Aorai  towering  above 
the  wooded  slopes  of  this  beautiful  island,  which 
more  than  any  other  part  of  the  world  interested  ray 
imagination  in  childhood.  I  had  read  over  and  over 
again  all  the  glowing  descriptions  which  early  voya- 
gers and  missionaries  gave  of  the  glorious  climate, 
and  luxuriant  vegetation  of  these  favored  spots ;  and 
with  them  I  had  in  youthful  fancy  visited  and  ex- 


I  '    liii 


102 


APPEARANCE    OF   TAHITI. 


•Si 


plored  them,  many  a  time.  It  seemed  like  the  pleas- 
ure of  greeting  old  acquaintances,  combined  with  all 
the  charms  of  novelty. 

The  distant  vi'iw  of  Tahiti  is  certainly  beautiful. 
Outlined  against  a  brilliant  sky  are  wooded  hills  of 
gradual  ascent,  covered  with  luxuriant  foliage,  and 
sloping  to  the  sea  shore,  or  to  cosy  valleys,  suggestive 
of  cool  and  limpid  streams  and  shady  nooks.  Encir- 
cling the  island  the  white  breakers  on  the  reef  appear 
like  a  band  in  which  this  ocean  gem  is  spt.  The 
purity  of  the  atmosphere  enhances  the  charms  of 
verdure,  and  the  uudimmed  colors  of  the  picture  in 
all  their  brilliancy  and  loveliness  appear  to  the  vision 
of  the  storin  worn  sailor,  like  a  glimpse  of  paradise. 
He  may  be  unconscious  perhaps  of  the  minutiie  of 
the  scenery,  but  feels  its  effect  as  a  whole,  and  de- 
lights in  the  peaceful  contrast  with  the  rough  vicissi- 
tudes through  which  he  has  passed. 

The  beauty  of  Tahiti  has  been  praised  by  every 
voyager,  from  Captain  Wallis  who  discovered  it,  to 
the  present.  It  was  described  by  Wallis  as  a  country 
of  **  the  most  delightful  and  romantic  appearance  that 
could  be  imagined,"  "  The  aspect  of  the  coast,"  says 
M.  de  Bougainville,  the  celebrated  French  navigator, 
"  was  very  pleasing.  The  mountains  rose  to  a  great 
height,  yet  there  was  no  appearance  of  barrenness, 
all  parts  were  covered  with  woods.  We  could 
scarcely  believe  our  eyes  when  we  beheld  a  peak 
clothed  with  trees,  even  to  its  solitary  summit,  which 
rose  to  the  level  of  the  mountains  in  the  interior  part 
of  the  isle.     Its  breadth  grew  gradually  less  towards 


14 


THE   CORAL   REEF. 


103 


the  top,  and  at  a  distance  it  might  have  beeu  taken 
for  some  pyramid  of  a  vast  height,  which  the  hand 
of  a  tasteful  decorator  had  inwreathed  with  garlands 
of  foliage.  As  we  sailed  along  the  coast,  our  eyes 
were  struck  with  the  sight  of  a  beautiful  cascade, 
which  precipitated  itself  from  the  mountain  tops,  and 
threw  its  foaming  waters  into  the  sea."  And  again  ; 
"Often  as  I  walked  into  the  interior,  I  thought 
I  was  transported  into  the  Garden  of  Eden ;  we 
crossed  grassy  plains  covered  with  fair  fruit  trees,  and 
watered  by  small  rivulets  which  diffused  a  delicious 
coolness  around." 

About  nine  A.  M.  we  passed  the  reef  of  coral  which 
encircles  the  island,  and  anchored  in  the  bay  of  Pa- 
piete.  The  passage  is  formed  by  a  stream  of  fresh 
water  from  the  laud,  running  out  here.  The  coral 
insect  does  not  flourish  in  fresh  water,  and  as  a  con- 
sequence a  passage  is  formed  through  which  vessels 
may  enter  the  quiet  waters  of  the  bay.  The  ocean  here 
was  unusually  transparent,  and  the  coral  groves  in 
the  depths  beneath  us  were  distinctly  visible.  As  I 
leaned  over  the  side  I  could  clearly  see  shoals  of 
sportive  fishes  flitting  in  and  out  among  the  fantastic 
forms  of  the  coral  shrubbery,  and  mark  the  effect  of 
the  shadow  of  the  ship,  passing  like  a  dark  cloud 
over  the  airy  forms  of  beauty  far  beneath  a  sky  of 
limpid  waters.  Such  transparency  of  the  ocean  to 
so  great  a  depth  is  very  rare,  and  only  at  one  other 
place  have  I  noticed  it. 

Papiete  is  a  picturesque  village  and  the  headquar- 
ters of  the  government,  at  present  in  the  hands  of 


n 


wr 


I;!' 


:bll 


104 


FRUITS,  SHELLS  &C. 


the  French.  From  our  anchorage  Eimeo,  another  is- 
land about  four  leagues  away,  was  in  sight.  Close  to 
the  town,  in  the  harbor  near  us,  rose  the  beautiful 
little  Moto-utu,  "  like  Aphrodite  from  the  foam  of  the 
ocean."  It  was  covered  with  a  grove  of  oranges  and 
cocoas,  and  seemed  scarcely  raised  above  the  level 
of  the  water.  This  was  formerly  the  residence  of  the 
kings  and  great  chiefs  of  Tahiti — the  center  of 
the  power  that  ruled  these  islands  before  their  dis- 
covery. 

We  lay  at  anchor  a  few  days  awaiting  the  conclu- 
sion of  negotiations  for  coal.  The  natives  brought 
off  an  abundance  of  delicious  oranges,  cocoanuts,. 
and  other  tropical  fruits,  which  they  sold  at  surpris- 
ingly low  rates,  and  we  purchased  large  supplies.. 
The  men  also  stocked  themselves  with  sea  shells,  speci- 
mens of  coral,  colored  and  plain,  fanciful  or  beauti- 
ful, according  as  the  work  of  nature  had  been  tam- 
pered with.  In  the  evenings  the  sailors  improvised 
dances  on  the  forecastle.  With  a  good  band,  and  the- 
glorious  moonlight  scenery  of  Tahiti,  upon  "  the- 
whispering  sea,"  we  lacked  only  the  charms  of  wom- 
ans  wit  and  grace  to  complete  the  satisfaction  of 
those  pleasant  occasions. 

In  a  day  or  two  the  barque  Glimpse  hauled  along 
side,  with  three  hundred  and  eighty  tons  of  coal, 
which  was  soon  transferred  to  our  **  bunkers."  It 
was  hinted  that  this  coal  had  been  intended  for  the: 
Shenandoah,  but  missed  its  destmation  someway. 

Ashore  we  found  the  French  soldiers  of  the  garri- 
soh  polite  and  affable.     They  visited  us  aboard,  and 


FinST  AKHIVAL  (IF  THK  DoLI'llIX.    Seu  piifto  loC. 


^n 


m 


LEAVING   TAHITI. 


105 


were  much  surprised  at  the  size  and  caliber  of  our 
batteries.  They  seem  to  take  the  world  easy,  but  it 
is  plainly  to  be  seen  that  they  long  to  return  to  the 
**  pleasant  land  of  France,"  from  which  thei'*  service 
banishes  them  for  an  indefinite  length  of  time. 
Though  Tahiti  is  a  pleasant  place  in  and  of  itself, 
yet  the  isolation  from  the  rest  of  the  world  is  so 
great  that  a  long  residence  here  must  be  wearisome 
and  irksome  in  the  extreme.  Were  return  impossi- 
ble, it  would  be  almost  a  living  death,  better  indeed 
than  Selkirk's  solitude,  or  that  of  the  mutineers  of 
the  Bounty,  but  still  dreadful  to  a  man  blessed  with 
the  ties  of  family  and  friendship,  and  accustomed  to 
live  in  the  society  of  his  kind  and  kindred. 

A  number  of  men  deserted  and  remained  when  we 
left,  and  several  were  shipped  who  had  long  been 
waiting  an  opportunity  to  get  back  to  the  world. 
Among  thos'"  taken  on  board  was  an  American  who 
had  married  a  native  girl,  and  attempted  to  settle 
down.  His  desire  to  get  away  rendered  him  obliv- 
ious of  all  the  requirements  of  honor  and  manhood, 
and  he  deserted  his  wife  in  the  most  heartless  man- 
ner. When  she  found  out  v^here  he  had  gone,  she 
came  off  to  the  ship  in  a  canoe,  and  with  many  tears 
and  lamentations  besought  him  to  return.  Her  en- 
treaties were  all  in  vain,  for  he  sailed  with  us,  though 
he  acknowledged  that  she  had  always  been  kind  and 
affectionate. 

On  the  15th  we  left  Tahiti  and  steamed  past  Mat- 
aval  Bay,  the  place  most  frequented  by  the  early  voy- 
agers.   There  Captain  Cook  once  witnessed  a  grand 


I 

li 


\m 


it      I  Wi 


loe 


WALLIS     DISCOVERY. 


naval  review  of  330  vessels,  canying  by  his  calcula- 
tion 7,760  men,  warriors  and  rowers,  armed  with  clubs, 
spears  and  stones,  and  wearing  turbans,  breastplates, 
and  helmets ;  but  the  waters  were  now  placid  and 
still,  with  not  a  canoe  to  be  seen.  The  warriors  are 
gone  and  the  chiefs  are  dead.  New  and  strange 
vices  and  diseases  have  swept  the  teeming  population 
away  and  left  only  a  demoralized  and  decay- 
ing remnant,  soon  to  become  extinct.  The  tribes 
and  people  of  these  islands,  like  those  of  many  others 
in  the  Pacific,  have  been  ruthlessly  trodden  down  in 
the  "  grand  march  of  civilization." 

It  was  a  portentous  day  for  these  islanders  when 
Captain  Wallis  discovered  them.  The  morning 
broke  clear  and  fair,  and  there  lay  the  Dolphin,  five 
leagues  away.  The  breeze  filled  her  great  white  sails 
as  she  bore  up  for  the  land.  Here  and  there  along 
the  shore,  on  the  hillside,  or  from  out  his  rude  hut,  a 
native  glancing  seaward  beheld  the  supernatural  vis- 
ion, and  stood  still  with  astonishment  and  wonder. 
With  bated  breath  he  points  it  out  to  his  companion, 
or  runs  for  his  friends.  Soon  there  is  a  hurrying  to 
and  fro,  and  the  news  spreads  all  along  the  mountain 
side.  Can  it  be  a  beneficent  deity,  or  a  devouring 
demon  that  comes  thus  grandly  to  their  shore?  Strange 
emotions  seize  them,  and  instinctively  they  gather 
together  'n  one  crowd,  with  their  chieftains  and  the 
priests  of  their  gods.  They  are  moved  by  one  im- 
pulse more  effectual  than  ever  was  mandate  of  their 
king.  A  thick  fog  settles  down,  hiding  the  phantom 
from  their  sight,  and  they  gain  courage  to  launch 


-  'M 


p 


A   HEATHEN   PROPHET. 


107 


irn- 


their  cauoes.     All  together  they  paddle  cautiously 
from  the  shore;  and  when  the  mists  roll  away,  there  is 
the  wonder,  close  to  them,  rocking  up  and  down  on 
the  ocean   swell,  with   a  slow  and  stately   motion. 
There  were  several  hundreds  of  canoes,  of  various 
sizes,  filled  with  people  who  sat  gazing  at  the  ship  in 
great  astonishment,  and,  by  turns,  conversed  one  with 
another.  "Their  wonder  was  excited  by  other  circum- 
stances besides  the  vast  bulk  and  strange  construc- 
tion of  the  Dolphin ;  they  beheld  the  fulfilment  of  a 
prophesy  which  had  been  handed  down  to  them  from 
remote  times,  but  was  of  a  nature  so  incredible  that 
they  scarcely  expected  it  would  ever  come  to  pass. 
One  of  their  sages,  named  Mauiy  had  in  an  inspired 
moment  foretold  that  in  future  ages  a  vaa  ama  ore, 
literally  an  outriggerless  canoe,  would  come  to  their 
shores  from  a  distant  land.     Au  outrigger  being  in- 
dispensable to  keep  their  barks  upright  in  the  water, 
they  could  not  believe  that  a  vessel  without  one  could 
live  at  sea,  until,  on  looking  on  the  magnificent  struc- 
ture before  them,  they  unanimously  declared  tliat 
the  prediction  of  Maui  was  fulfilled,  and  that  the  fated 
ship  had  arrived." 

We  were  now  bound  for  Honolulu  again.  The 
weather  was  fine,  and  good  breezes  favored  us  so  that 
we  flew  onward  at  a  tremendous  pace.  We  carried 
fore  and  aft  and  square  sails, — all  we  could  get  on. 
One  day  the  martingale  parted,  and  the  jib-boom 
was  in  danger  of  being  carried  away,  but  was  by  ac- 
tivity and  promptness  secured. 
22nd.— Under  British  colors  and  in  chase  of  a  ves- 


;;4 

'  'HI 


108 


AT  SEA. 


sel  sighted  on  the  starboard  beam  in  the  morning. 
It  turned  out  to  be  all  right,  so  we  kept  on  our  way  ► 
We  have  just  crossed  the  line,  and  are  on  the  star- 
board tack,  going  ten  knots  an  hour. 

25th — Tumbling  about  considerably  in  a  rough  sea. 
Our  pivot  eleven  inch  gun  secured  by  extra  tackles  to 
keep  it  aboard. 

Oct.  28th — To  the  windward  of  Maui  and  north  of 
Hawaii.  Besides  these  two  islands,  Kanai,  Molokai 
and  Oahu  are  in  sight,  some  of  them  but  dimly  seen 
in  the  distance. 

On  the  29th  we  arrived  asecood  time  at  Honolulu 
and  found  the  harbor  full  of  whale  ships  from  the 
North  Pacific.  Their  rigging  being  covered  with 
whale  bone  put  out  to  dry,  presented  a  singular  ap- 
pearance. We  received  no  further  news  of  the  Shen- 
andoah, and  consequently  our  hunt  was  up.  We 
subsequently  learned  that  she  was  at  that  time  mak- 
ing the  best  of  her  way  to  England,  where  she  ended 
her  career  of  piracy  peacably,  very  unfortunately  for 
us  and  our  great  expectations  of  prize  money. 


rTTTi 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Houolnlu— Pali  Precipice— A  Ride  up  the  Mountain— Former  Cnstomary 
Salutation— Royal  Road— A  Brewery— Primitive  Livery  Stable— IMaces 
of  Interest— Future  of  Hawaii- Sugar  Production— Chinese  Restaur- 
ant—Character of  the  Natives- Kanaka  Sailors- Raw  Fish  and  Pol- 
Rev.  S.  C.  Pamon— Missionary  Efforts— Decrease  of  Population— De- 
parture—A  Whale  Ship  in  Distress. 

|ONOLULU  is  pleasantly  located  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  Nuuanu  valley,  which  is  forroed 
by  a  break  in  the  central  volcanic  ridge  of 
Oahu.  This  valley  is  about  seven  miles  long,  and 
ascends  gradually  from  the  town,  contracting  in 
width  until  it  reaches  its  highest  point,  where  a  deep 
precipice,  called  the  Pali,  drops  suddenly  eleven  hun- 
dred feet,  to  the  northern  side  of  the  island.  Here 
the  trade  wind  rushes  through,  almost  continually, 
between  peaks  that  tower  fifteen  hundred  feet  above. 
This  is  a  noted  place  in  the  history  of  the  islands, 
for  here  is  shown  the  spot  where  the  last  independent 
chiefs  of  Oahu  fought  their  last  battle,  and  were 
driven  by  their  conqueror,  the  first  Kameharaeha, 
over  the  steep  to  indiscriminate  death  below. 

One  fine  morning  a  party  of  us  started  on  horse- 
back for  the  Pali.  Animated  by  the  prospective 
pleasures  of  the  ride,  we  dashed  through  the  suburbs 
Avith  the  recklessness  of  sailors,  and  were  soon  cours- 
ing by  the  plantations  of  taro  along  the  valley.  My 
horse  was  in  excellent  condition,  and  it  was  delight- 


,  ill 


110 


A   MOUNTAIN    RIDE. 


ful  to  be  agaiu  iu  the  saddle,  and  among  dcw  and 
unusual  scenes.  Our  breakneck  speed  did  not  con- 
tinue very  long  before  several  of  the  party,  unused 
to  such  exercise,  fell  behind  and  returned.  Among 
the  number  was  H — ,  who  had  often  dilated  upon  his 
horsemanship,  and  was  considered  a  champion  eques- 
trian until  it  was  thus  proved  that  he  was  not  sailor 
enough  to  manage  an  equine  craft.  A  sailor  is  pro- 
verbially fond  of  horses,  and  likes  a  hard  ride.  In- 
stead of  hiring  a  horse  f/~l  mounting  it,  he  "  char- 
ters" one,  and  "gets  aboard."  The  saddle  is  "amid- 
ships on  the  spar  deck,"  and  the  bridle  is  the  "head 
gear."  If  he  has  no  saddle,  he  is  inclined  to  get  toa 
far  "aft  on  the  quarter  deck  "  of  the  beast.  Instead 
of  stopping  and  hitching,  he  "  comes  to  an  anchor 
and  moors  "  to  a  post  or  tree. 

Our  road  soon  began  to  ascend,  and  we  proceeded 
more  slowly.  The  waters  of  the  little  stream  that 
runs  down  this  valley,  we  noticed,  were  extensively 
used  to  irrigate  the  black  volcanic  soil  which  pro- 
duces the  iaro  so  abundantly.  The  natives  in  the 
taro  patches,  or  on  the  road,  seemed  in  no  hurry. 

Still  ascending,  the  road  dwindled  to  a  foot  path, 
and  began  to  be  very  rough.  My  companions  now 
all  returned,  and  I  pushed  on  alone.  On  reaching  a 
considerable  elevation,  I  stopped  to  rest  and  enjoy  the 
prospect  spread  out  beneath  me.  The  city  and  ship- 
ping did  not  seem  distant,  but  in  reality  they  were 
twice  as  far  away  as  they  appeared.  Viewed  from 
this  height,  the  ocean  appeared  grander  in  extjnt^ 
and  more  expansive,  than  I  had  ever  seen  it  before. 


w 


RETURN. 


Ill 


I  would  advise  all  poets  to  postpone  writing  their 
odes,  or  addresses  to  the  ocean, until  they  have  looked 
out  upon  it  from  some  lofty  elevation. 

As  I  went  on,  slight  showers  became  fre(juent,  from 
clouds  that  had  been  wrecked  on  the  peaks  that  sur- 
mount the  precipice.  These  showers  do  not  extend 
down  to  the  town,  but  up  here,  about  the  summits  of 
the  island,  continually  alternate  with  the  sunshine. 
Now  a  sprinkle  of  rain  drops  from  the  clear,  sun-lit 
sky;  now  a  momentary  shower  is  precipitated  over  the 
mountain  upon  you,  without  warning.  The  air  be- 
came cooler,  and  my  light  clothing,  not  being  adapted 
to  such  a  change  of  climate,  or  to  cool  showers, 
I  very  reluctantly  returned,  without  reaching  the 
edge  of  the  precipice.  Leading  my  horse  down  the 
uneven  path  I  had  gone  up,  the  bright  sunshiud  and 
warmer  air  below  soon  dried  my  wet  clothing ;  and, 
after  descending  to  the  valley,  I  took  another  road 
leading  into  the  town. 

As  I  passed  along  the  valley,  before  reaching  the 
macadamized  road,  I  noticed  many  of  the  primitively 
constructed  huts  of  the  poorer  natives,  thatched  with 
cocoa-palm  leaves,  interspersed  among  pleasant  little 
cottages,  snugly  ensconced  among  native  trees.  Oc- 
casionally I  met  a  native  with  his  calabashes  of  poi 
swung,  Chinese  fashion,  on  a  stick  over  his  shoulder. 
Sometimes  several  were  sauntering  along  together,  in 
a  sociable  and  leisurely  manner.  Here  and  there  a 
kanaka  was  occupied  about  his  taro  patch,  or  en- 
gaged in  household  affairs,  in  an  indolent,  careless 
manner,  that  betokened  his  easy  spirit.     Time  is  not 


II 


?fS3 


m 


I 


I^H 


112 


FORMER  SALUTATION. 


considered.  Care  does  not  seem  to  afflict  them,  as  it 
does  in  our  laud  of  nervous,  anxious  hurry,  so  highly 
favored  in  all  things  save  the  climate.  Every  one 
replied  to  my  salutation  of  "aloha  oe"  with  a  pleasant 
smile ;  and  some  seemed  inclined  to  enter  into  con- 
versation, but  as  those  two  words  were  about  all  the 
Hawaiian  I  knew,  I  was  debarred  that  pleasure. 
Formerly  ic  was  customary  for  persons  meeting,  or 
bidding  adieu,  to  rub  their  noses  together  in  friendly 
recognition  or  solemn  farewell.  Not  only  was  this 
the  form  of  salute  between  persons  ;  it  was  observed 
when  meeting  with  a  favorite  dog,  or  hog,  or  any  do- 
mestic animal.  Tradition  relates  that  when  Kaha- 
vari,  in  Hawaii,  was  flying  from  the  wrathful  goddess 
Pele  of  the  volcanoes,  who,  in  a  devouring  flood  of 
burning  lava,  had  licked  up  his  house  and  village, 
for  some  offense,  he  met,  on  the  sea  shore,  his  favor- 
ite hog  Aroipuaa,  and  had  only  time  to  rub  noses 
affectionately  and  say,  ''  Aroha  ino  oe,  ke  ai  mainei 
Pele*''  before  the  advancing  lava  overwhelmed  them 
both  in  the  sea. 

By  the  roadside  I  noticed  an  immense  cactus.  It 
was  a  green  tangled  mass,  of  several  fee  in  width 
and  height,  and  thickly  covered  with  formidable 
spines. 

Arrived  in  the  suburbs  of  Honolulu,  I  found  the 
highway  by  which  I  entered  the  town,  wide  and  well 
made,  forming  an  excellent  drive.  This  road  is  kept 
in  repair  by  the  royal  government.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  bridle  and  foot  paths,  roads  are  scarce  in  these 

^Affection  great  to  you  ;  Pele  comes  devouring. 


HORSEMANSHIP. 


113 


islands.  In  the  city  I  passed  a  brewery  ;  but  whether 
the  natives  are  fond  of  ale  and  beer,  I  did  not  learn. 
The  laws  are  very  strict  in  regulating  the  sale  of  all 
kinds  of  intoxicating  drinks  to  the  natives.  The 
privilege  of  getting  drunk  is  narrpwed  down  almost 
to  a  royal  prerogative,  by  legal  enactments ;  but,  like 
other  royal  monopolies,  is  frequently  infringed  by  en- 
terprising descendents  of  the  ava  topers  of  former 
times. 

My  horse  was  glad  to  return  from  hi?  hard  trip, 
and  resume  his  quarters  on  the  street  corner. 
Whether  he  or  I  endured  the  greater  hardship,  is 
still,  in  my  mind,  an  undecided  question.  In  con- 
sideration of  fifty  cents  paid  in  advance  to  his  master, 
I  received  a  jolting  up  and  down  the  volcanic  island  of 
Oahu,  which  made  me  sore  for  several  days  ;  but  the 
novelty  and  grandeur  of  the  views  obtained,  more 
than  balanced  all  the  discomforts  of  the  ride.  The 
livery  stable  was  a  street  corner,  where  a  number  of 
horses  stand  tied  during  the  day,  to  await  customers. 
The  natives  of  both  sexes  ride  well,  though  few  can 
afford  to  keep  a  horse.  The  ladies,  from  the  royal 
family  down,  take  the  rational  position  on  horseback, 
— that  of  men, — and  deride  the  false  modesty  which 
in  our  country  compels  a  woman  to  forego  a  health- 
ful and  proper  exercise,  or  take  it  at  the  risk  of  her 
neck. 

Among  other  objects  of  interest  in  and  around  the 
town  of  Honolulu,  there  is  the  palace,  the  first  native 
church,  the  Bethel,  the  schools,  Punch  Bowl  Hill,  an 
old  crater  just  beyond  the  town.  Diamond  Head,  and 
Wiakiki,  the  country  residence  of  the  king. 


Tv 

1  i 

■•ii! 

.. . 
'  1 

mii 


''      fi 


n  ?^ 


m 


114 


CHINESE   LABORERS. 


m. 


Honolulu  presents  many  signs  of  progress  and 
improvement,  but  these  are  due  to  foreign  capital  and 
enterprise,  principally  American.  There  is  hope  for 
the  future  of  these  islands,  not  ia  the  permanence  or 
povver  of  the  Hawaiian  kingdom,  Lut  in  the  future 
territorial  or  state  government  under  the  American 
flag.  American  capital  will  absorb  the  resources 
and  advantages  of  these  sea-girt  spots,  as  it  is  doing; 
and  in  the  near  future  they  must  belong  to  our  com- 
monwealth, if  we  would  not  basely  abandon  many 
of  our  own  enterprising  citizens,  to  the  vicissitudes  of 
chance  for  protection. 

The  principal  export  from  Honolulu  is  sugar, 
which  has  been  successfully  produced  here.  Large 
plantations  in  Hawaii  are  cultivated  by  Chinese 
laborers,  in  default  of  better.  Many  Chinese  have 
been  imported  for  this  purpose.  I  saw  a  number  of 
the  Celestials  who  had  just  been  landed.  They  were 
kept  closely  guarded  in  a  strong  room,  by  a  sentry 
from  the  king's  standing  army.  These  Chinamen 
were  a  most  villainous  looking  lot,  and  appear-^d  to 
be,  as  they  are  represented,  criminals  and  convicts. 
They  need  to  be  guarded  and  watched  constantly, 
for  sometimes  they  commit  murders  and  assassina- 
tions on  the  plantations.  An  instance  of  this  kind 
occured  a  short  time  after  our  visit,  in  which  quite  a 
number  of  Americans  and  others  interested  in  a 
large  plantation,  were  butchered  by  them.  This  vi- 
cious character  applies  more  especially  to  the  im- 
ported laborers,  and  not  to  those  more  respectable 
emigrants  who  have  come  to  these  islands  to  better 


CHINESE   AND   KANAKAS. 


r5 


their  fortunes  by  honest  means,  and  who  were  not 
forced  to  leave  their  country  for  their  country's  good. 
This  latter  class  however  is  not  numerous  here,  Cali- 
fornia being  a  better  place  for  the  attainment  of  their 
objects.  Some  few  Chinese  are  married  to  native  wo- 
men, and  have  families.  I  went  once  to  an  eating  house 
kept  by  a  respectable  Chinaman,  nearly  opposite  the 
Honolulu  House ;  but  the  dishes  set  before  me  were 
so  unlike  anything  in  my  previous  experience,  that  I 
will  not  undertake  to  describe  them. 

The  native  is  not  in  general  much  given  to  manual 
labor.  The  climate  is  genial,  and  requires  but  little 
protection  from  the  weather.  A  few  feet  of  ground 
planted  with  taro,  yield  subsistence  for  a  year.  The 
sea  is  genefous  with  fi.:?!  for  his  food.  There  are  none 
of  those  conditions  of  soil  and  climate  that  compel 
to  continual  foresight  and  exertion.  He  is  mild,  af- 
fectionate, and  amiable  in  disposition, — at  the  same 
time  careless  and  self  induJgent.  Though  intelligent, 
hi  8  ideas  of  morality  as  expounded  in  our  theology, 
seem  to  be  obscure  and  ill-defined. 

The  kanakas  make  very  good  sailors,  and  large 
numbers  of  them  have,  from  time  to  time,  left  their 
homes,in  the  numerous  vessels  touching  at  the  islands.. 
The  whaling  ships  which  rendezvous  here  have  car- 
ried many  an  adventurous  native  from  his  sunny  is- 
land to  the  northern  whaliug  grounds,  and  given  him 
a  last  resting  place  beneath  the  chilly  waters  of  the 
Arctic,  or  the  Okhotsk. 

The  natives  of  these  islands,  like  all  Pacific  island- 
ers, are  naturally  expert  swimmers.     They  spend  a 


.-^^ 


116 


FOOD   OF   THE   NATIVES. 


11 


I   '  "' 


■  I  r  i. 


great  deal  of  time  in  the  water,  bathing  very  fre- 
quently. In  front  of  the  town  of  Honolulu  there  is 
an  ancient  fishing  ground,  a  very  wide  and  shallow 
nook  of  the  bay,  from  two  to  four  teet  deep,  and  with 
a  clean,  saudy  bottom.  It  furnishes  many  fish,  and  a 
fine  bathing  pl?.ce  for  young  or  old.  Frequently  a 
dozen  or  more,  of  both  sexes,  might  be  seen  in  line, 
with  dip-nets  or  seines,  wading  after  finny  spoils.  The 
fish  are  nearly  always  eaten  raw,  or  uncooked  ;  and 
if  the  kanaka  gentleman  or  lady  is  hungry,  it  is  a 
matter  of  indifference  to  him  or  Ir  r,  whether  the  fish 
at  hand  has  departed  this  life  or  not.  It  is  a  melan- 
choly fact  worthy  of  the  serious  consideration  of  Mr. 
Bergh,  that  many  an  innocent  denizen  of  the  waters 
that  may  have  been  disporting  itself  joyotisly  among 
its  fellows  at  the  dawn  of  day,  has,  ere  the  sun  was 
high,  yielded  up  the  ghost  between  the  white  teeth  of 
some  native  belle,  at  her  early  meal.  Besides  raw 
fish,  the  fermented  taro,  or  poi,  as  it  is  called  after 
being  prepared  for  use,  is  the  adjunct  staff'  of  life. 
The  taro  is  a  vegetable  between  a  sweet  potato  and  a 
t.     It  is  raised  in  great  abundance,  with  little  la- 


i.ie 


bor.  Pounded  up  and  left  to  ferment,  it  is  worked 
into  a  mess  resembling  a  thick  solution  of  gum  ara- 
ble and  grease,  sour  and  disagreable  to  the  foreign 
taste,  but  I  suppose,  pleasant  to  the  native  palate. 
Oq  such  fare  Kamehameha  the  First  lived,  conquered, 
and  handed  his  name  down  to  posterity.  I  had  read 
ot  his  great  deeds,  but  a  smell  at  a  calabash  of  his 
favorite  poi  was  a  sufficient  iuduiiement  for  me  not  to 
■"go  and  do  likewise."  *  / 


!; 


KAMEHAMEHA  I. 


117 


M 


Karaehameha  V.,  whom  I  saw,  does  not  live  alto- 
gether on  poi.  He  dresses  in  the  European  fashion, 
and  uses  modern  drinks  when  in  Honolulu  ;  but  when 
at  his  country  residence  at  Wiakiki,  his  dress  is  said 


KAMEHAMEHA  I. 


to  consist  principally  of  what  nature  gave  hira.  Ava 
and  the  priests  of  Pele  governed  the  first  Kame- 
hameha ;  whisky  and  somebody  else  are  said  to  govern 
the  last ,  . .    .        -     .     - 


it 


j""^ 


118 


"father   DAMON." 


in 


fill 


I 


I  made  the  acquaintance  of  the  Rev.  S.  C.  Damon, 
or  "  Father  Damon,"  as  he  is  known  by  sailors  all 
over  the  Avorld.     Formerly,  I  believe,  a  missionary, 
he  has  devoted  himself  to  the  best  interests  of  sailors, 
by  all  classes  of  whom  he  is  loved  and  appreciated. 
He  edits  a  little  monthly  called  "  The  Friend,"  and 
preaches  and  practices^  a  benevolence  that  has  made 
his  ministry,  like  that  of  "Father  Taylor"  of  Boston, 
a  blessing  to  those  who  "  go  down  to  sea,  in  ships." 
Amid  the  waste  of  noble  human  lives,  in  unprofitable 
missionary  undertakings,  it  is  pleasant  to  find,  now 
and  then,  a  few  working  in  fields  of  benevolence  so 
evidently  proper  for  our  first  efforts.     Before  we  are 
successful  in  converting  the  heathen,  we  must  make 
a  more  creditable  exhibition  of  the  effects  of  our  sys- 
tem  of    theology  than    they  have  heretofore    been 
accustomed  to  see  in  those  who  visit  their  shores  ;  and 
in  order  to  do  that,  we  ought  to  do  as  much  for  our 
sailors  as  we  propose  to  do  for  the  unknown  idolaters. 
It  certainly  is  not  inconsistent  with  the  strict  princi- 
ples of  our  religion  and   common  sense,  to  do  much 
more  than  has  yet  been  done  for  the  multitudes   of 
the  debased  and  vicious  at  our  very  doors,  before  we 
sacrifice  our  best  men  to  produce,  in  distant  lands, 
effects  that  are  neutralized  at  the  instant  of  contact 
with  our  own  heathenism. 

The  population  of  these  islands  decreases  at  the 
rate  of  several  thousands  annually.  The  causes  of 
this  are  doubtless  the  vices  and  diseases  communicated 
by  foreigners.  At  the  time  of  their  discovery,  the 
number  of  the  inhabitants  was  estimated  at  about 


m 


DECREASE  OF  TOPULATION. 


119 


four  hundred  thousands  Now,  there  are  not  sixty 
thousand.  In  a  climate  peculiarly  adapted  to  health 
and  the  attainment  of  a  vigorous  old  age,  this  fact 
does  not  speak  well  for  the  morality  of  the  people, — 
does  not  indicate  the  influences  that  are  supposed  to 
be  active  among  a  converted  and  christianized  people, 
after  forty  years  of  missionary  occupation  under  gov- 
ernment protection.  I  honor  the  missionaries  of  all 
lands  for  their  good  intentions  and  noble  self  sacrifi- 
ces ;  but  it  seems  that  our  method  is  at  fault.  There 
must  certainly  be  a  better  way  ;  and  that  way  may 
possibly  be,  to  first  christianize  and  educate  the 
worse  than  heathen  within  our  own  borders. 

On  the  8th  of  November  we  took  our  departure 
from  Honolulu,  with  fair  wind  and  fine  weather. 

I  left  these  islands,  as  well  as  the  others  I  visited, 
with  a  feeling  of  regret  that  my  stay  was  necessarily 
so  short  that  I  could  not  Icaru  more  of  them  by  per- 
sonal observation.  There  is  something  peculiarly 
fascinating  about  the  islands  of  the  Pacific.  Their 
isolation  in  the  wide  reaches  of  the  ocean,  their  beau- 
tiful scenery  and  delightful  climate,  together  with  the 
romantic  incidents  of  their  discovery  and  history,  all 
combine  to  invest  them  with  interest.  These  nanote 
parts  of  the  world  have  been  fruitful  of  theraos  for 
romance,  and  fine  writers  have  woven  from  their  his- 
tories a  vail  of  fiction,  and  tinted  it  with  colors 
which  cast  an  added  glamour  of  loveliness  over  scenes 
and  places  already  beautiful. 

The  next  day  after  our  departure  we  spoke  an 
American  whaling  ship  that  had  been  a  long  time  at* 


Sil 


"yt'li 


m 


120 


DEPARTURE. 


sea,  and  was  last  from  the  north  Pacific.  The  crew 
were  weak  handed  from  the  effects  of  scurvy,  and  the 
wear  and  tear  of  long  cruising  in  the  high  latitudes. 
Our  kindhearted  captain  cheerfully  supplied  them 
with  fresh  provisions  from  our  abundance.  We  gave 
them  our  latest  news,  and  informed  them  of  the  end 
of  the  war,  which  was  also  news  to  them.  Having 
thus  refreshed  and  gladdened  them,  we  proceeded  on 
our  way. 

On  the  19th,  after  a  pleasant  voyage,  we  entered 
San  Francisco  Bay,  late  in  the  evening,  eager  for 
news  from  home  and  the  world  from  which  we  had 
been  cut  off  for  nearly  four  months.  Before  arriving 
at  the  anchorage,  we  ran  aground  and  stuck  fast ; 
but  finally,  after  a  short  detention,  got  off,  reached 
our  anchorage,  and  thus  completer?  our  long  wild- 
goose  chase  of  over  thirteen  thousand  miles. 


y 


!i  'i 


i 


OHAPT    R  XVI. 

Voyage  down  the  Coast— L,\  I'az—IVarl  Divers— Turtle— Ludicrous  Inci- 
deut— Giiaymus— A  Xarrow  Escape— Fruits,  Kisli  itc.,— Pelicans— >1mz- 
atlan— Dog's  Head  I'romontory— Water  Sponts  at  Sea— AcapulcoHg'iin 
—Shock  of  an  Karthiiualie  at  night— The  lixiled  I'resideut— An  Artil- 

•  lery  Ilxercise— Sailors'  Stratagems  to  obtain  Spirits— An  old  Tar's 
Method  of  Getting  Drunk- U.  11.  M,  Talisman- Tho  I'liosplioresce^t 
Sea— Back  to  Mazatlan— Off  for  Guaymas— Ship  a  Sea— Keturii  to  San 
Francisco. 

p 

|UR  next  service  was  a  voyage  down  the  coast 
of  Mexico,  on  which  we  started  one  month 
^^yp  after  returning  from  Honolulu.     This  trip  in- 
troduced us  to  the  Gulf  of  California,  which  hence- 
forward became  one  of  our  regular  cruising  stations. 
We  stopped  a  day  or  so  at  Monterey,  in  California, 
after  which  an  uneventful  voyage  of  seven  days  took 
us  to  La  Paz,  a  small  town  on  the  inside  of  the  pen- 
insula of  Lower  California,  about  ninety  miles  from 
Cape  San  Lucas.     Passing  by  Ceralbo  and  Espiritu 
Santo  Islands,  we  opened  the  wide  and  shallow  bay  of 
La  Paz  and  found  a  channel  clo.-«e  to  the  southeast 
shore.     As  we  coasted  along  close  to  the  beach,  we 
could  see  ravines  from  the  hills  and  de]iressious  just 
beyond  it,  which  appeared  lower  than  the  waters  of 
the  bay  on  which  we  floated.     We  pas.'^ed  by  the  en- 
trance of  Pichelingue  Bay,  a  snug  harbor  in  the 
neighborhood  of   La   Paz,   surrounded    by   barren, 
sandy  shores,  and  anchored  close  to  the  town.     This 
place   has   no   preieutious   to   importance,    being    a 


M-f 


122 


PEARL   DIVERS. 


straggling    collection  of  Mexican  adobe   houses  in. 
the  vicinity  of  the  old  Mission,  de  La  Paz. 

Many  of  the  inhabitants  are  pearl  divers,  this  being 
a  locality  where  pearl  fishing  was  once  actively  pros- 
ecuted. It  is  probable  that  the  wealthy  Aztecs  of 
Montezuma's  time  obtained  pearls  here ;  and  it  may 
be  that  there  are  yet  many  of  priceless  value  scat- 
tered about  in  nooks  and  corners  of  these  waters. 
There  are  many  dangers  to  which  the  divers  are  ex- 
posed; and  they  do  not,  as  formerly,  venture  boldly 
into  the  deeper  waters,  where  savage  and  voracious 
sharks,  and  other  sea  monsters,  with  wide  Cerberean 
mouths,  keep  watch  and  ward  over  useless  treasures. 
We  amused  ourselves  many  an  hour  watching  the 
dusky  natives  dive  from  their  small  bota.o  at  no  great 
distance  from  the  ship.  Generally  their  small  boats 
carried  two  persons,  who  dived  and  rested  alternately. 
Standing  up  in  the  end  of  the  boat  the  naked  pearl 
hunter  would  leap  and  disappear  head  foremost,  and 
during  the  painful  interval  of  absence  from  the  life- 
giving  air,  search  for  and  secure  the  pearl  oysters. 
These  were  placed  in  a  rude  wicker  basket  sus- 
pended from  the  boat,  and  kept  down  with  a  stone  in 
the  bottom.  It  is  seldom  now  that  valuable  pearls 
are  found,  and  a  great  many  shells  have  not  even  the 
defective  ones  which  are  most  frequent.  It  is  a  most 
laborious  work  for  meager  and  uncertain  returns. 

But  though  valuable  pearls  were  scarce,  yet  there 
was  plenty  of  green  turtle,  fat  and  fine,  a  thing  of 
more  importance  to  us.  The  Mexicans  brought  them 
for  sale,  and  for  fifty  cents  we  could  purchase  prizes 


of 


TURTLE. 


123 


that  might  well  excite  the  envy  of  the  epicures  of 
New  York  or  Sau  Francisco.  The  natives  gener- 
ally spear  them  in  the  back,  and  after  securing  them, 
plug  the  wound  in  the  shell  with  a  wooden  peg. 
While  this  remains  in  situ  the  animal  will  live, 
though  it  does  not  eat,  until  it  gradually  becomes 
an  emaciated  skeleton,  and  finally  dies  in  the  course 
■of  a  week  or  ten  days.  On  one  of  our  voyages  from 
this  place  to  San  Francisco  we  carried  a  large  num- 
ber, but  very  few  of  them  survived  to  reach  that 
place.  Those  few,  instead  of  being  in  good  condi- 
tion, lost  nearly  half  their  weight, — nearly  all  but 
the  shell  and  bones, — and  "  the  eyes  that  stood  out 
with  fatness"  at  the  start,  had  sunk  and  almost  dis- 
appeared in  their  bony  cavities.  They  were  of  va- 
rious sizes,  from  a  foot  to  nearly  two  feet  across  the 
shell.  Upon  the  occasion  referred  to,  they  were 
piled  up  in  numbers  about  the  bow  and  on  the  guards 
forward  of  the  wheel  houses;  and  during  the  voyage, 
•one  calm,  dear  night  at  sea,  a  laughable  incident 
occurred.  Among  the  captives  in  the  bow  was  one 
sturdy,  restless  old  fellow,  of  very  large  size,  that 
had  been  but  slightly  wounded ;  and  on  this  particu- 
lar night  he  got  out  on  the  deck  and  started  on  his 
travels  aft,  heading  for  his  native  feeding  grounds 
^vhere  wooden  pegs  in  the  back  were  not  so  fashion- 
able. Several  sailors  were  sleeping  about  the  decks, 
and  the  turtle,  finding  his  way  obstructed,  proceeded 
to  climb  over  them.  Having  surmounted  one  of  his 
difficulties,  the  heavy  sleeper,  half  waking,  and  feel- 
ing the  strange  incubus  on  his  breast  "  in  foul  em- 


4  li 


ii 


II 


ill 


I 


124 


ARRIVE   AT   GUAYMAS. 


brace,"  was  terribly  frightened  before  he  could  get 
his  wits  together  sufficiently  to  account  for  the  horri- 
ble nightmare.  His  noise  woke  up  his  mesbmates,. 
who  had  the  laugh  on  him  for  a  while. 

We  arrived  at  La  Paz  on  the  30th  of  January,  and 
on  the  3rd  of  February  proceeded  to  Guaymas,  ar- 
riving the  next  day.  Guaymas  is  a  considerable 
town,  360  miles  north  of  Mazatlan,  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Yaqui  river,  and  port  of  the  Mexican  state  of 
Sonora,  a  rich  mineral  province  on  the  east  side  of 
the  Gulf. 

We  anchored  near  some  barren  islands,  off  the 
town.  The  French  armed  ship  "  Le  Rhin"  lay  close 
in  shore,  I  suppose  to  support  the  authority  of  Maxi- 
millian,  whose  adherents  held  the  place  for  a  time. 

During  our  stay  we  practiced  sending  down  all 
yards.  One  morning  while  preparing  for  this  exer- 
cise, I  was  sitting  on  the  comb  of  the  tore  hatch 
which  was  open  to  the  hold,  and  under  an  immense 
gear-tackle  block  triced  up  in  the  fore  rigging,  to  be 
used  in  lowering  the  fore  yard.  A  sailor  carelessly 
unfastened  it,  and  not  being  able  to  hold  it,  yelled  to 
me,  and  let  go.  I  looked  up,  saw  the  block  descend- 
ing, and  dodged  the  same  instant.  It  grazed  my  arm 
and  struck  exactly  where  I  had  been  sitting.  A 
second  later  and  I  might  have  been  mangled  and 
lifeless  at  the  bottom  of  the  hold.  Such  an  escape 
from  apparently  inevitable  death  is  calculated  to  im- 
press any  one,  as  it  did  me,  with  a  deep  sense  of  the 
uncertainty  of  life,  and  with  gratitude  "for  the  signal 
carD  of  a  kind  Providence. 


OFF   TO    MAZATLAV. 


125 


TFTi 


ii 


Tropical  fruits  wore  plentiful  here,  aud  oysters  of 
fair  quality  could  be  obtained  from  places  iu  the 
neighborhood.  But  fish  of  all  kinds  were  most 
abundant.  They  swarmed  around  the  ship  in  shoals, 
and  numerous  pelicans  subsisted  in  luxury  upon  their 
easily  captured  prey.  It  was  interesting  to  watch 
the  habits  of  feeding  of  these  birds.  The  uncouth 
creature  would  drop  down  head  foremost  with  open 
mouth  upon  a  shoal,  takes  in  about  a  gallon  of  water 
and  small  lish,  aud  after  straining  out  the  water  be- 
tween its  mandibles,  throw  up  its  head  and  swallow 
the  contents  of  its  capacious  net. 

On  the  21st  of  February  we  left  Guaymas  and  ar- 
rived at  jMazatlan  on  the  24th.  Found  the  French 
frigate  Victoire  and  gunboats  here.  Maximillian's 
adherents  were  in  possession  of  the  place,  and  Gen. 
Corona  in  the  vicinity  trying  to  make  things  uncom- 
fortable for  them. 

Mazatlau  is  a  large  city,  for  a  Mexican  port, 
though  the  harbor  is  exposed  and  poor.  At  the  left 
hand  side  of  the  entrance  there  is  a  promontory 
which  from  our  anchorage  had  the  exact  appearance 
of  a  huge  dog's  head  rising  above  the  water,  and 
looking  seaward.  From  Mazatlan  Ave  sailed  for  Ac- 
apulco,  touching  at  San  Bias  aud  Mauzanillo  on  the 
way. 

On  the  day  of  leaving  Manzanillo,  well  out  to  sea, 
we  saw  a  fine  waterspout, — a  genuine  affair.  On  an- 
other occasion  we  witnessed  quite  a  number  at  once 
in  all  stages  of  formation  or  breaking,  about  two 
.miles  from  us.     It  was  a  grand  and  glorious  sj)ecta- 


;   i;' 


E'l 


126 


ACArULC'O   AGAIN. 


cle,  but  evanescent.  I  wif^hed  for  au  artist's  pencil,, 
with  an  artist's  head  and  hand,  but  felt  that  no  liu- 
man  power  could  represent  faithfully  on  canvas,  the 
magnificence  of  the  view.  Tiie  ocean  was  calm  near 
us,  but  troubled  and  turbulent  around  and  between 
the  revolving  li(|uid  columns  that  seemed  to  su})port 
the  dense  black  clouds  above  them. 

March  3rd. — At  Acapulco  again.  l?ome  of  the 
sailors  had  been  singing 

"  0,  carry  me  back  to  Acapulco  again," 

and  now  the  anchor  is  down  for  a  stay.  The  days 
are  hot,  but  the  nights  pleasant.  We  have  a  sea. 
breeze  coming  through  a  notch  in  the  hills  to  the  left 
of  the  town,  preserving  us  from  the  miasma  so  fatal 
to  the  Frenchmen  over  in  .the  vicinity  of  the  Hat 
ground  beyond  the  fort.  We  swing  back  and  forth 
with  the  tide.  The  mail  stfv.mers  come  and  go.  Our 
fat  negress,  with  a  hJib-U  imp  to  row  her,  comes  off 
regularly,  with  the  same  assortment  of  tropical  fruits 
to  sell.  She  carries  the  same  umbrella  over  her,  to 
keep  the  hot  solar  rays  from  concentrating  too  se- 
verely on  the  top  of  her  oily  head,  or  in  her  coal 
black  skin.     Her  complexion  is  safe  enough. 

The  imperialists  hold  the  i)lace,  supported  by  the 
French  gunboats.  General  Alvaredo's  Hag,  just 
discernable,  floats  on  the  mountains  in  the  distance. 

March  5th — Last  night  I  had  the  middle  watch. 
The  bay  was  still  in  the  starlight,  I  was  leaning  on 
a  gun  carriage,  looking  out  upon  the  water  through 
the  port,  and  listening'*to  the  sound  of  distant  firing 
in  the  direction  of  the  cocoa-palm  grove.     Some  of 


INCiDKNTS. 


127 


Alvuredo's  soldiers  were  probably  .stirring  uj)  the 
pickets  of  the  Imperialists.  All  else  was  calm  and 
quiet.  Suddenly  I  felt  a  shock  that  made  every  tim- 
ber of  the  ship  treinble.  It  ^^avo  me  the  impression 
of  striking  violently  on  a  rock,  though  I  knew  our 
anchor  was  many  fathoms  deep.  A  thousand  fishes 
leaped  frightened  from  the  water,  and  then  all  \vaF> 
quiet  again.  I  waited  for  another  shock  but  it  did 
not  come.     My  first  earthquake  was  over. 

We  had  a  shock  at  another  time  in  the  early 
morning,  but  I  was  fast  asleep  in  my  hammock  and 
knew  nothing  of  it,  until  informed  at  breakfast  by 
some  of  my  messmates  who  had  been  up. 

During  our  stay  a  small  Peruvian  brig,  named,  I 
think,  the  "  Ciuncho,"  came  in  and  anchored.  What 
her  business  was  we  could  not  make  out.  It  was 
said  she  carried  Castillo,  the  deposed  and  banished 
President  of  Peru,  and  that  he  wandered  an  exile  in 
this  vessel  about  the  peaceful  Pacific.  Whether  this 
was  true  or  not,  I  can  not  say.  I  know  it  was  not 
long  before  a  revolution  upset  the  Perez  goverament, 
and  again  placed  Castillo,  the  popular  favorite,  at  the 
head  of  the  nation. 

The  monotony  of  life  was  broken  by  the  frequent 
arrival  of  the  mail  and  opposition  steamers,  which 
regularly  here  stopped  to  coal.  Sometimes  parties  of 
Alvaredo's  soldiers,  on  these  occasions,  would  make  a 
dash  into  the  town  for  the  news.  Once,  the  steamer 
having  arrived  in  the  night,  early  in  the  morning  a 
party  of  them  appeared  on  an  old  earthwork  on  the 
top  of  a  hill,  back  of  the   town.     Supposing  them- 


wi 


M 


t    Uv 


;!■ 


i;        ! 


i*«* 


128 


A   SKIRMISH. 


lillii 


selves  out  of  range,  they  stood  in  bold  relief  against 
the  sky,  looking  down  ou  the  town  aud  harbor,  some 
ou  foot  holding  their  horses,  aud  others  mounted,  A 
French  gunboat  not  far  jrom  us,  manned  a  battery 
and  opened  on  them  with  long  range  gunc  in  quick 
succession.  The  first  shot  went  over  their  heads,  a 
little  too  high  ;  the  next  was  a  little  too  low  ;  but  the 
third  was  most-  admirably  aimed,  aud  raked  their 
position.  Tl)ey  evacuated  the  place  and  tumbled 
down  out  of  sight  with  a  celerity  that  was  more 
amusing  than  graceful. 

Occasiojally  the  men  were  allowed  to  go  ashore 
**  on  liberty,"  as  it  is  called,  This,  with  the  majority, 
means  a  debauch.  Sailors  are  often  of  drunken  and. 
dissolute  habits,  and  especially  is  this  true  of  men-of- 
war's  men.  Thera  are  aboard  every  ship  »vhich  carries 
so  large  a  crew,  a  great  many  whose  ruling  pas.sion  is 
a  craving  for  intoxicating  drinks,  aud  who  indulge 
their  unfortunate  appetite  at  every  opportunity.  It 
seems  incredible  the  risks  they  will  run  in  order  to 
obtain  liquor.  Every  ingenuity  is  practiced  to  smug- 
gle it  aboard,  contrary  to  the  shii)'s  rules  and  regula- 
tions, by  the  men  attached  to  the  l)oats.  So  iuor- 
dinate  is  the  desire  for  it,  that  at  times  it  becomts 
tiie  duty  of  the  master  at  arms  to  examine  every 
.sailor  attached  to  a  boat,  ou  returning  from  shore. 
He  often  finds  it  ingeniously  secreted  about  the  per- 
son, or  in  the  boat;  and  hen  the  punishijient  is 
double  iron  handcuffs  and  couiinenienton  "  bread  and 
water."  I  have  known  it  to  be  tit..l  ua.ler  the  boat, 
in  flexible  skins,  carried  in  cocoanuts,  or  cans  of 
milk  with  fal^o  bottoms. 


nr? 


1 


SAILORS   ASHORE. 


129 


mn 


On  going  ashore  "  on  liberty,"  about  the  first  busi- 
ness an  old  tar  sets  about  is  to  get  effectually  drunk. 
This  being  accomplished  after  a  longer  or  shorter 
cruise  among  the  drinking  houses,  according  to  his 
habits,  he  often  finislies  up  by  going  into  a  heavy 
drunken  sleep,  it  may  be  in  a  barroom,  on  the  side- 
walk, or  in  the  gutter,  as  chance  directs.  At  such 
times  he  is  not  particular.  When  he  wakes,  if  his 
time  on  shore  is  up,  he  takes  another  drink  to  steady 
his  nerves  before  he  goes  aboani.  On  such  a  spree 
he  usually  manages  to  spend  whatever  money  he 
may  happen  to  have,  be  it  much  or  little.  If  he  has 
any  left  it  is  an  oversight,  either  on  his  })art,  or  on 
the  part  of  the  laud-sharks  by  whom  he  is  surround- 
ed. Some  aid  tars,  though  thus  addicted  to  drink, 
take  a  pride  in  conducting  themselves  so  as  to  render 
punishment  unnecessary,  and  come  on  board  ia  a 
condition  to  behave  themselves.  But  there  is  an- 
other class  of  men  with  vitality  too  small  to  ever  be- 
come genuine  sailors.  The  same  appetite  for  spirits 
possess':^  them,  but  its  effect  is  to  half  craze  and 
tenjporarily  dement  them.  These  are  the  wild,  hair- 
brained,  dissolute  dogs  who  never  had,  or  can  have 
any  degree  of  self  control.  Some  of  them  seem  to 
1)6  totally  devoid  of  the  possibility  of  human  devel- 
opement.  A  number  of  them  together  on  a  "  lib- 
erty day"  make  a  young  pandemonium.  They  come, 
or  are  brought  aboard,  noisy  and  obstreperous,  and 
the  "  br'g,"  or  place  of  co.ifinement,  is  often  well 
filled  up  with  them. 

An  adventure  with  some  of   the  latter  class  will 


mi 


I       A 


k 


130 


AN   ADVENTURE. 


give  an  idea  of  scenes  not  uncommon.  Having  been 
ashore  with  a  messmate  all  clay,  we  were  returning 
aboard  about  sunset,  in  one  of  the  cutters.  The 
boats  crew  had  made  frequent  trips  during  the  da} 
and  all  hands  were  xolerably  drunk.  The  cutter 
was  loaded  down  with  crazy,  drunken  firemen,  coal 
heavers  and  others  who  had  been  ashore.  They 
wero  raving  and  pitching  about,  tumbling  over  the 
thwarts,  singing,  yelling,  and  fighting  promiscuously . 
The  coxswain  was  so  drunk  that  he  could  hardly 
manage  the  rudder  ;  and,  steering  wild,  he  run  u& 
fast  on  a  rock  which  was  covered  by  high  tide. 
This  increased  the  confusion.  Several,  with  drunken 
recklessness,  partly  stripped  and  threw  their  caps  and 
other  articles  of  clothing  overboard  to  the  sharks 
that  swam  about  us.  They  then  made  an  attempt  to 
reach  the  stern  sheets,  where  S.  and  myself  sat,  the 
only  sober  men  aboard.  I  was  the  temporary  object 
of  their  fury  and  as  they  proposed  to  throw  me  over- 
board, a  general  melee  ensued.  Our  position  being  a 
good  one  there  was  very  little  danger  of  their  success. 
In  the  tunmlt,  however,  the  boat  was  canted  over  so 
much  that  we  were  nearly  capsized.  At  this  moment 
another  cutter  put  off  from  the  ship  to  our  assisttuice. 
Fortunately,  we  got  off  the  rock  before  it  reached  us, 
and  order  being  partially  restored,  the  men  pulled 
for  the  ship.  Once  afloat,  S.  and  myself  M-erc  mas- 
ters of  the  situation,  and  feared  ueitl.'.  r  shark'^nor 
drunken  men.  One  of  the  firemen  no,;  atteinpLed  to 
jump  overboard,  but  was  caught  and  pulled  down  be- 
tween the  thwarts  by  a  heavy  sailor,  almost  as  drunk 


LEAVE  ACAPULCO. 


131 


I 


as  himself,  who  sat  on  him  for  the  rest  of  the  way. 
Arrived  on  board,  the  worst  cases  were  transferred 
to  the  "  brig,"  in  double  irons.  We  made  no  report 
whatever,  and  those  who  had  been  the  most  out-^ 
rageous,  seemed  when  sober,  to  have  little  or  no  rec- 
ollectiou  of  what  had  transpired.  , 

April  7th — Acapulco  is  just  now  fading  from  view^ 
as  for  the  third  time  we  take  our  departure.  The 
men  are  busy  securing  guns,  boats,  and  anchors  for 
sea.  The  French  gunboat  Talisman,  ir  in  sight, 
making  seaward,  having  left  her  anchorage  a  few 
minutes  in  advance  of  us.  She  ports  her  helm  for 
the  south  while  we  are  going  up.  They  say  she  has 
not  been  farther  south  than  Acapulco  for  years;  and 
doubtless  he''  sailors  are  now  happy  with  new  hopes 
of  soon  returning  to  "'  the  pleasant  land  of  France." 
We  leave  the  Imperial  flag  flouting  over  the  old  Cas- 
tillo fhat  long  years  ago  }  rote<  ted  the  treasures  of 
the  Manilla  galleons ;  and  nope  when  tve  return,  to 
see  the  flag  of  the  Republic  in  its  placj  and  General 
Alvarcdo  holding  forth  in  the  Callc  de  Mejico. 

April  8th. — The  sea  is  surging  up  with  a  long, 
smooth  swell.  The  water  is  very  phosphorescent. 
Last  night  I  watched  the  fishes  darting  from  the 
bows,  like  myriads  of  shooting  stars.  Sometimes  a 
large  fish,  disturbed  by  our  approach,  would  rush 
through  the  water,  leaving  a  trail  of  light  like  the 
sudden  flash  of  a  meteor. 

April  Uth,  Monday. — Calm  weather  and  a  smooth 
sea. 

April  11th. — Arrive  at  Mazatlan  in  the  afternoon. 


132 


MAZATLAN   AND   GUAYMAS. 


The  F'\  ench  frigate  Victoire  and  gunboats  still  here^ 
The  Lj  beseiged  by  the  Liberal  General  Corona. 

We  are  n  rmed  of  a  battle  which  took  place  eight 
days  ago  between  the  forces  under  his  command  and 
the  Imperialists.  Both  sides  claim  the  victory.  The 
Captain  finds  plenty  to  do  looking  after  American  in- 
terests. An  American  in  prison,  and  a  vessel  seized 
by  the  authorities,  indicate  that  our  affiiirs  need  at- 
tention. There  seems  to  be  a  close  sympathy  be- 
tween the  Imperialists  here  and  our  rebels  at  home. 
A  small  paper,  published  here,  is  as  bitter  agaiust 
the  "  so-called  Government  of  the  United  States"  as 
disloyalty  could  (i^sire. 

April  17th. — Off  for  Guaymas. 

April  19th. — Since  yesterday,  very  rough  weather. 
We  are  running  before  the  wind,  out  of  our  course. 
This  morning  we  shipped  a  sea  so  large,  that  it  swept 
everything  aft. ,  Those  who  happened  to  be  on  the 
forecastle  were  deluged  but  our  high  bulwarks  pre- 
vented any  one  being  washed  overboard.  In  the 
evening  the  weather  became  calmer,  arid  we  kept  ou 
our  course. 

April  20th. — Weather  clear  and  sea  quiet.  Ar- 
rive at  Guaymas  and  find  "  Le  Rhin"  still  in  port. 
From  our  anchorage  the  town  has  a  deserted  appear- 
ance. It  sleeps  among  the  barren  hills,  which  are 
too  poor  to  artbrd  a  dress  of  green  to  cover  their 
nakedness.  Even  war  can  scarcely  wake  it  up,  in  or- 
der to  find  life  to  destroy.  The  lazy  pelicans  show 
the  only  signs  of  industry,  seining  and  gulping  down 
the  fish  that  crowd  in   shoals  to   the  surface   of  the 


mt^ 


GUAYMAS. 


133 


; 

1 

li 

water,  as  if  to   be  eaten   and  so  save  the  trouble  of 
living.     The  spirit  of  indolence  reigns  all  along  these 
shores. 

For  about  ten  days  we  practiced  artillery  exer- 
cises, fished  and  gathered  oysters.  Some  of  the  offi- 
cers explored  about  the  Yaqui  for  coal,  with  little 
success.  • 

Early  in  May  we  left  for  San  Francisco,  and  ar- 
rived aft^r  an  uneventful  voyage  of  twelve  or  thir- 
teen hundre'l  miles. 


i 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

A  Mutiny— Off  to  Sea— Seasick  in  a  Gale— The  Mouth  of  the  Columltia 
River— Port  Angelos— A  Tragedy  at  Seattle— Olympia— Prink  of  Kero- 
sene Oil— Scenery  of  the  Sound— The  "Noble  Red  Man"— Matrimonial 
— Nanaimo,  V.  I.— Bellingham  Bay— Solitude— Return. 


N  our  return  from  the  Gulf  of  California,  we 
g;;!  went  as  usual  to  Mare  Island,  remainino;  there 
'"^^w  for  a  fortnight. 

On  the  second  of  June  we  left  for  a  cruise  up  the 
coast  and  to  Puget's  Sound.  Running  down  to  San 
Francisco,  we  had  scarcely  dropped  anchor  off  the 
city,  before  an  armed  boat's  crew  wei  e  seut  off  to 
<iuell  a  mutiny  aboard  the  Seminole,  a  merchant  ves- 
sel at  anchor  near  us.  Her  colors  were  up  with  the 
union  down,  and  a  flag  was  displayed  in  the  main 
rigging,  indicating  lively  times  aboard.  One  of  our 
boats  was  manned  by  the  men,  who  eagerly  rushed 
over  the  side,  and  was  off  before  I  had  time  to  get  on 
deck.  On  reaching  the  vessel  the  affair  was  over. 
The  officers  and  crew  of  the  Seminole  had  been  hav- 
ing a  free  fight  with  sheath-knives  and  belaying  pins. 
The  three  officers  were  badly  cut  up  with  the  knives 
in  the  hands  of  the  Su,ilcrs.  .  Our  officer  took  com- 
mand, sent  two  sailors  ashore  in  irons,  and  the 
wounded  men,  covered  with  blood,  to  our  vessel.  Af- 
ter the  surgeon  had  dressed  their  wounds  they  were 
sent  ashore.  I  heard  that  the  second  mate  die(^  the 
next  morning. 


SEA-SICK. 


135 


On  the  5th  we  went  to  sea.  The  forts  imd  Pre- 
sidio were  passed  iu  review,  and  then  the  ftimiliar 
Golden  Gate,  that  landmark  of  so  many  memories, 
sank  down  in  the  sea  behind  us. 

Proceeding  up  the  coast  we  met  with  heavy  weather, 
which  increased  to  something  like  a  gale.  Being  on 
duty  in  the  first  watch  at  night,  the  pitching  and 
rolling  of  the  vessel  in  the  darkness  made  me  in- 
tensely sea  sick.  I  had  often  felt  a  slight  nausea, 
but  was  never  before  so  completely  demoralized. 
Across  a  rope  rack — literally  "  on  the  rack" — I 
sprawled,  sublimely  indifferent  to  all  possible  events 
of  the  storm  around,  and  totally  absorbed  by  the 
storm  within.  For  the  time  being  I  felt  no  interest 
in  any  other  object  or  event,  past,  present,  or  future, 
and  could  have  met  death  without  fear  or  concern. 
If  ever  it  should  be  my  fate  to  perish  at  sea,  I  should 
wish  to  be  as  sea  sick  at  the  time  as  I  was  then. 
AVhen  the  wrathful  ocean  shakes  his  victim  ere  he 
swallows  him  up,  there  is  produced  in  a  great  degree, 
that  absence  of  fear  which  Dr.  Livingstone  describes 
as  his  experience  when  in  the  jaws  of  the  fierce  Afri- 
can lion. 

In  a  few  days  we  were  off  the  mouth  of  the  Colum- 
bia river,  the  proximity  of  which  was  made  manifest 
by  the  sudden  change  of  color  iu  the  water.  As  we 
ran  into  the  muddy  waters,  drained  from  the  vast 
valley  of  this  mighty  river,  theboundry  line  between 
the  turbid  and  the  clear  was  remarkably  well  de- 
fined and  distinct. 

Making  our  way  into  the  Straits  of  San  Juan  de 


ir 


136 


PUGET  S   SOUND. 


ill 


M-iil 


Fuca,  we  dropped  anchor  in  front  of  Port  Angelos. 
Here  the  forests  of  pine,  and  the  snow  in  the  dis- 
tance on  the  elevated  ranges  gave  the  landscape 
a  cheerless  and  dismal  look. 

We  spent  a  month  in  Puget's  Sound,  and  around 
Vancouver's  Island,  visiting  in  succession  Port  Town- 
send,  Seattle,  Steilacoom  and  Olympia,  the  capital  of 
the  territory.  The  first  named  place,  and  indeed  the 
whole  sound,  is  noted  for  its  lumber  trade.  Vast 
quantities  of  excellent  lumber  are  exported. 

While  at  Seattle  one  ot  our  sailors,  a  Peruvian, 
was  killed  in  a  brawl  on  shore.  We  captured  the 
murderer  and  took  him  to  Steilacoom,  where  the  au- 
thorities carelessly  permitted  hira  to  escape. 

At  Olympia  we  had  an  interchange  of  civilities 
with  the  territorial  officials,  and  numerous  visitors 
came  off  to  us.  One  day  a  large  party  came  in  a 
small  steamer  which,  during  their  stay,  was  made  fast 
along  side.  Some  of  the  sailors  exploring  it  in 
search  of  their  favorite  beverage,  whiskey,  came 
across  a  can  of  kerosene  oil  in  the  engine  room.  Not 
being  familiar  with  that  article,  the  first  one — a 
sprightly  young  Irishman —seized  it  with  delight, 
and  scarcely  losing  time  to  smell  it,  applied  it  to  his 
lips  at  an  elevation  alarming  to  his  thirsty  compan- 
ions who  watched  the  process.  After  waiting  what 
was  considered  a  reasonable  time,  sailor  number  two 
impatiently  snatched  it,  and  without  delay  continued 
the  process  in  the  same  manner.  This  gave  number 
one  a  chamte  to  taste  the  oleaginous  fluid,  and  imme- 
diately he  did  so,  a  change  came  over  his  couute- 


SCENERY  OF  PUGET  8  SOUND. 


137 


:| 


nance  which  struck  his  comrades  who  were  waiting 
their  turn.  He  was  confounded.  An  expression  of 
mingled  astonishment  and  horror  sat  on  his  visage . 
Could  it  be  poison  ?  He  rushed  excitedly  ou  deck, 
followed  by  his  messmates  in  search  of  the  surgeon, 
for  relief  from  the  draught  that  so  strangely  op- 
pressed his  digestive  orgaus,  unlike  the  whiskey  from 
his  own  Emerald  Isle.  The  consequences  proved  not 
very  serious,  but  all  hands  enjoyed  the  joke  so  im- 
mensely, and  reminded  him  of  it  so  often,  that  I  am 
satisfied  he  will  for  the  rest  of  his  life  be  cautious 
about  drinkin":  whiskev  out  of  a  tin  can. 

From  Olympia  we  were  piloted  a  devious  course 
back  to  Port  Townsend.     The  weather  was  glorious. 
The  climate  at  this  season  of  the  year  is  certainly  all 
that  could  be  desired.     The  scenery  at  times,  among 
the  islands  and  head-lands  is  most  beautiful.     Imag- 
ine a  summer  sea  with  green  wooded  islands ;  here 
and  there  a  white  sail  flying  over  the  quiet  water 
and  disturbing  the  inverted  images  of  the  trees  mir- 
rored along  the  shores  ;  the  stealthy  Indian  in  his 
narrow,  light  canoe  gliding  out  of  sight  behind  some 
jutting  point,  as  if  he  had  vanished  into  the  deeper 
shadow  of  the  land  ;  a  clear  atmosphere,  enlarging 
the  range  of  vision ;  and  Mt.  Ranier,  blank,  white, 
piled  up  against  the  deep  blue  sky,  on  the  horizon  : 
Imagine  all  this,  and  paint  your  picture  with  the  in- 
finite gradations   of  Nature's  changing   colors,  and 
then  visit  the  Sound  at  your  leisure,  and  you  will 
find  that  your  imagination  has  done  but  faint  justice 
to  its  beauties.     It  is  certainly  a  most  delightful  re- 


138 


"duke  of  yokk." 


gion  for  a  summer  ramble,  and  must  iu  time  become 
a  favorite  place  of  resort. 

Indians  iu  considerable  numbers  are  still  residents 
around  Puget's  Sound.  I  had  expected  to  see  the 
"noble  red  man"  in  his  full  glory,  but  instead  found 
squalid,  filthy,  and  dejected  looking  specimens  of 
humanity  in  wretched  hovels  and  dirty  lodges.  Their 
subsistence  is  mostly  fish  and  clams  ;  and  their  lead- 
ing object  in  life  appears  to  be  the  possession  of  a 
bottle  of  "  Boston  fire  watei /'  otherwise  bad  whiskey. 

The  chief  of  the  Indians  in  the  vicinity  of  Port 
Townsend  is  a  heavy  set,  good-natured,  middle-aged, 
whiskey-loving  native,  known  among  the  settlers  as 
the  "  Duke  of  York,"  his  Indian  name  being  un- 
pronounceable. His  daughter,  a  slatternly,  swarthy 
female,  is  called  the  Princess  Victoria.  The  old 
Duke  often  dilated  to  me  ujion  her  domestic  quali- 
ties, and  strongly  recommended  an  intimate  acquain- 
tance ;  but  a  view  of  her  ladyshij)  iu  perspective  was 
quite  sufficient,  and  put  an  end  to  any  rising  aspira- 
tions for  a  princely  alliance.  I  could  not  inform  the 
chief  that  his  princess  was  a  disgustingly  dirty  speci- 
men of  royalty,  for  by  so  doing  I  should  have  done 
violence  to  his  feelings  by  too  suddenly  dissipating 
his  fond  dreams  of  "  fire  water."  So  the  Duke  and  I 
exchanged  photographs  and  remained  friends,  and 
the  Princess  Victoria  probably  graces  some  red  man's 
wigwam,  and  provides  her  own  fish  and  clams. 

If  all  Indians  are  like  these,  then  I  am  positive 
the  romances  about  the  "  noble  sons  of  the  forest" 
must  have  originated  with  those  for  whom  distance 
and  ignorance  "  lend  enchantment  to  the  view." 


MATRIMONIAL    FRAUDS. 


189 


>il 


Louis,  our  interpreter,  tlie  Wnlker  fillibustcr  and 
Oariboo  miner,  thinks  otherwise.  He  is  warm  in 
liis  praises  of  Indian  chiefs  as  fathers-in-law.  He  re- 
lates that  when  he  wintered  in  the  wilds  of  Cari- 
boo, hundreds  of  miles  from  civilized  settlements,  it 
was  necessary  to  enter  into  matrimonial  relations. 
The  chief  being  informed  of  this  domestic  inclina- 
tion, forthwith  ordered  a  blanket  dress  parade  of  the 
^irls  of  the  tribe.  One  being  selected,  he  paid  so 
many  blankets  to  the  chief  and  took  his  dusky  bride 
to  his  home.  He  avers  that  it  was  the  custom  when 
a  wife  did  not  please  her  lord,  to  take  her  back  to 
the  chief  and  make  him  "  trade  back,"  or  furnish  an- 
other ;  and  that  squaws  being  in  excess  of  the  de- 
mand, and  blankets  scarce,  the  latter  alternative  was 
mostly  preferred.  Often  the  pale-faces  took  advan- 
tage of  this  preference  of  the  "  noble  red  man"  to 
procure  a  ne^v  wife  every  few  weeks. 

From  this  place  wo  ran  to  Nanuimo,  on  tlie  north- 
east coast  of  Vancouver's  Island.  The  harb  •'  '  I'lliis 
new  settlement  is  so  little  known  that  in  our  attempt 
to  enter  without  a  pilot,  we  ran  fast  aground.  Vari- 
ous expedients  were  resorted  to  in  order  to  get  clear, 
suph  as  backing  with  the  engines  and  running  the 
heavy  guns  aft.  After  a  considerable  time  we  suc- 
ceeded, and  carefully  feeling  our  way  by  sounding 
came  to  anchor  after  dark. 

Daylight  next  morning  revealed  a  small  village 
with  a  back-ground  of  primeval  forest.  A  few  years 
ago  this  locality  was  a  part  of  terra  incognita,  hid- 
den  in  the  wilderness   which  clothes  the   hills  and 


'W 


*: 


I 


.,^i.LI."lVl>|l. 


140 


BELLINGHAM   BAY. 


shores  of  this  island.  Now  a  brisk  village  gives 
promise  of  progress  and  prosperity.  This  change,  or 
rather  beginning  of  a  change,  is  due  to  the  discovery 
of  coal  in  the  vicinity. 

Indians  came  off  to  us  with  game  of  various  kinds, 
including  venison,  which  was  very  plentiful  and 
cheap.  I 

After  two  days  sojourn  in  this  wild  place  we  rar 
down  to  Bellinghara  Bay  and  remained  two  day& 
there.  This  is  a  quiet  nook  of  the  Sound  which  pene- 
trates the  forest  on  the  east  side  and  just  south  of  the 
boundary  line.  No  habitations  were  in  sight,  and  na 
sounds  of  human  activity  to  be  heard  breaking  the 
oppressive  silence  of  this  sol  tude  of  nature.  How 
profound  is  the  quiet  in  theso  -emote  corners  of  our 
northwestern  wilderness  !  Hey  it  impresses  one,  as 
if  silence  were  intensified  by  cime !  No  wonder  the 
Indian  is  taciturn.  The  characteristics  of  his  dwell- 
ing place  for  many  generations  have  stamped  them- 
selves upon  his  mind  and  insensibly  become  incorpo- 
rated with  his  nature.  The  silence  of  such  solitudes 
as  these,  disturbed  only  at  intervals  by  storm  or  tem- 
pest, or  the  falling  tree  borne  down  by  the  weight  of 
its  centuries,  must  impress  the  soul  of  the  race  that 
inhabits  them. 

This  is  truly  retirement  from  the  world.  Let  that 
sensitive  mortal  Avho  is  disgusted  with  his  fellow-man 
and  tired  of  all  his  ways,  here  seek  a  retreat  and  a 
cure  of  his  abnormal  fancies. 

Leaving  Bellingham  Bay  we  touched  at  Port  An- 
gclos,  and  on  the  12th  departed  for  San  Francisco. 


p 


II 


^1 


■  :  t| 


f 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

A  Cruise  In  the  Gulf  of  Ualifornla-Sea  GuUh-Artlllery  Flglit,  Ac. 

|FTER  five  or  six  weeks  we  again  put  to  sea 
for  a  cruise  in  the  Gulf  of  California.  Our 
»7^\»5  run  to  Cape  San  Lucus  was  without  incident. 
Now  and  then  a  whale  appeared ;  the  porpoises  tum- 
bled as  usual  and  ran  races  with  the  bowsprit ;  the 
flying  fish  flashed  over  the  surface  of  the  smooth  blue 
sea;  the  medusa),  those  wonderful  opaline  masses  of 
living,  transparent  jelly,  surrounded  us  in  fleets;  and 
the  gulls  on  restless  wings  hovered  around  to  secure 
any  articles  of  castaway  food.  What  a  life  these  sea 
gulls  have,  and  what  powers  of  flight !  Once  during  a 
voyage  on  a  mail  steamer,  I  noticed  one  particularly 
that  had  evidently  been  crippled  by  some  foiaier  voy- 
ager. It  flew  with  one  leg  dangling,  a  sure  mark  for 
its  identification.  It  appeared  at  dawn  of  day  among 
its  fellows,  circling  around  the  vessel ;  and  all  day 
long  until  nightfall  it  accompanied  us,  now  flying 
forward,  now  aft,  and  up  and  dowu  in  endlesss  evolu- 
tions wearying  to  the  eye.  While  the  steamer  made 
close  upon  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  that  maimed 
bird  must  have  traversed  more  than  three  times  that 
distance,  or  nearly  five  hundred  miles.  Nearly  five 
hundred  miles  from  dawn  till  dusk,  to  procure  its 
daily  food!  If  this  gull  with  a  dangling  limb  could 
do  this  with  such  apparent  ease  and  satisfaction  to 


1  if 


"^^ 


mmmm 


142 


PERILOUS   SITUATION. 


I 


( 


itself,  what  tremendous  distances  may  be  made  by  a 
sound  and  whole  one  I  Doubtless  they  often  make 
six  hundred  Piiles  in  a  day  in  search  of  food ;  and 
perhaps  even  then  it  may  frequently  happen  that 
they  retire  hungry  to  sleep  on  the  water,  to  be 
drifted  by  the  winds  and  rocked  by  the  waves. 

We  arrived  at  Mazatlan  and  found  the  place 
closely  besieged  by  General  Corona  and  his  advanced 
batteries  playing  on  the  Imperial  forces  at  intervals. 
When  we  left  the  next  morning,  a  lively  artillery 
practice  was  going  on  between  their  outworks. 

We  proceeded  to  Gnaymas  and  remained  several 
days.'  While  lying  at  anchor  among  the  islands  of 
the  bav,  we  were  one  night  assailed  bv  a  mo 't  violent 
storm.  We  were  anchored  as  usual,  not  expecting 
such  an  onslaught  of  wind,  rain,  thunder  anu  iight- 
ning.  The  night  was  very  dark  ;  so  dark  that  it  was 
scarcely  possible  to  see  three  rods  frcni  the  vessel,  and 
the  wind  and  rain  so  violent  as  to  render  ships'  lights 
of  little  use.  The  gale  came  on  suddenly  before 
midnight,  anl  under  its  increr.siug  fury  we  were  soon 
dragging  oui  .inchor  on  shore.  Another  was  let  go, 
but  still  we  ..rifted  rapidly  until  steam  enough  was 
got  up  to  aid  in  keeping  off.  It  was  a  wild  night. 
The  fierce  war  of  the  elements  in  the  darkness,  illu- 
mined from  time  to  time  by  blinding  flashes  of  light- 
ning, was  very  grand  and  exhilarating.  The  wind 
wailed  and  shrieked  through  the  rigging  in  a  ming- 
ling of  different  tones.  The  top  hamper  of  a  vessel 
in  a  storm  makes  most  melancholy  music  unknown 
on  shore.  The  thunder  crashed,  roared,  rumbled  and 
reverberated  down  the  Gulf  as  if  tfie  genii  of  storms 


T^ 


nCIIILINGUE    BAY. 


143 


be 


were  playing  football  with  the  mountains.  The  /"e- 
tonations,  with  the  shock  of  sound,  seemed  to  shake 
the  very  foundations  of  the  earth.  As  the  night  wore 
oil,  the  storm  having  spent  its  fury  abated,  and  the 
sea,  covered  with  foam  from  the  violeni'o  of  the  con- 
flict, subsided.  The  dawn  of  day  revealed  the  high 
rocky  island  towards  which  we  had  been  driven,  iii 
close  and  dangerous  proximity.  Having  stf  am  on^ 
we  got  up  the  anchors  and  put  to  sea. 

Returning  to  Mazatlai,  and  fi  ;ding  nothing  new  in 
the  situation  of  affairs,  we  ran  across  the  Gulf  to  La 
Faz  and  Pichilingue  Bay,  a  secluded  harbor  and 
nook  of  La  Paz  Bay,  surrounded  by  cactus  covered 
sand  hills.  It  is  u -ed  as  a  place  of  deposit  for  coal 
for  the  vessels  in  these  waters.  Here  we  remained  in 
seclusion  and  retirement  for  a  month,  shut  off  from 
the  rest  of  the  world,  while  brawls  and  butcheries  big 
w  th  the  fate  of  the  so-called  Empire,  took  place 
throughout  the  land. 

In  this  out  of  the  way  place  with  desert  shores 
and  without  a  human  habitation  ai  sight,  we  amused 
ourselves  boating  on  the  qui^.t  bay,  or  in  rambles 
ashore.  On  the  -^'lean  sand  beach,  we  bathed  in  the 
limpid  waves,  ran  races,  and  playt>d  ball  or  "  leap- 
frog." The  glorious  climate  and  pure  atmosphere 
made  out  door  life  a  pleasure.  Sometimes  we  took 
off  our  shoes  and  walked  out  on  the  white  salt  flat  in 
the  lagoon  to  the  edge  of  the  water,  or  marked  off 
rings  for  school-boy  games.  Sometimes  we  ranged 
ourselves  in  line,  and  by  throwing  stone-j  battered 
down  huge  and  tall  specimens  of  cactus. 

The  bay  was  full  of  fish,  and  populous  with  sea 


'Up 


l!;; 


144 


PELICANS — CLIMATE. 


birds.  '^ ;  ;  latter  had  here  an  almost  undisturbed 
commuuity  of  their  own.  The  pelicans  were  the 
aristocrats  who  with  little  exertion  fattened  on  the 
spoils  of  the  deep,  while  the  commonplace  gulls,  the 
lower  orders,  from  dawn  until  dark  industriously 
sought  their  scant  livelihood,  and  lived  on  fare  dis- 
dained by  their  lazy  lords. 

Leaving  this  ocean  hermitage,  we  ran  across  to 
Mazatlan,  and  thence,  after  a  few  days,  up  to  Guay- 
mas  again.  Here  the  month  of  November  was 
passed  in  this  delightful  climate.  With  a  monotony 
of  blue  skies,  calm  seas,  and  brilliant  star  light 
nights,  December  glided  away  as  we  loitered  down 
between  Espiritu  &*anto  and  Ceralbo  Islands  and  the 
mainland,  to  La  Paz,  and  again  back  to  Mazatlan 
across  the  Gulf.  The  more-thau-Juue  loveliness  of 
this  tropical  December,  beguiled  us  of  our  sailor  dis- 
content, and  we  ate,  sang,  danced,  and  slei)t  in  peace 
and  harmony,  under  the  benignant  skies,  where  no 
chilly  breath  of  the  frost  king  ever  disturbs  the  soft, 
refreshing  breezes. 

Storms  of  thunder  and  lightning  were  frenuent. 
Here  the  electric  flashes  seemed  more  constant  and 
vivid  than  I  have  ever  seen  them  anywhere  else.  At 
times  the  "  St.  Elmo's  fire  "  played  about  the  rigging, 
presenting  at  night  a  strange  and  singular  appear- 
ance; and  at  such  times  the  disturbed  and  phosphor- 
escent sea,  lit  up  by  the  red  glare  of  the  almost 
continual  blaze  of  electricity,  seemed  like  a  vast  lake 
of  fire.  The  Gulf  of  California  is  the  home  of 
thunder-storms,  the  store  house  of  the  artillery  of  Ju- 
piter, of  which  the  ancients  sang.     These  storms  may 


im 


CYANE    AND   YELLOW   FEVER. 


145 


possibly  conduce  to  the  remarkable  purity  and 
healthfulness  of  the  atmosphere. 

The  cMmate  of  the  Gulf  and  of  Lower  California 
is  most  eujoyable.  It  is  the  boon  that  over-balances 
the  disadvantages  of  a  sterile  soil  and  cactus-covered 
plains.  The  salt  water  gives  strength  to  those  vvho 
love  the  bath,  and  the  pure  atmosphere  is  charged 
with  electricitv,  that  element  of  powei  and  action  in 
this  arena  of  nature's  j)yrotechnics. 

Upon  returning  to  San  Francisco  our  vessel  be- 
came the  flagship  of  Admiral  H.  K.  Thatcher,  and 
we  for  a  time  as.  med  all  the  diguity  and  honor 
of  that  position. 

While  lyiijg  off  the  city,  the;  <  yaiie  came  in  from 
Panama,  infected  with  yellow  fever,  linving  lost  a 
large  proportion  of  her  crew.  The  survivors  were, 
most  of  tiiem  sick,  and  numbers  were  dyiug  every 
day.  Inquiring  after  acquaintances  aboard,  I  learn- 
ed that  nearly  every  one  I  knew,  was  dead.  I'he 
most  robust  and  vigorous  seemed  to  be  the  fa\  i  irite 
victims  of  the  scourge,  and  several  whom  I  remem- 
bered as  pictures  of  strength  and  health,  were  re- 
ported to  have  died  in  a  few  hours  after  their  attiK'L. 
Such  a  state  of  affairs  aboard  a  sailing  ship  at  sea  is 
sad  and  terrible  for  the  crew  who,  confined  in  nar- 
row quarters  with  their  sick  and  dyiug,  must  carry 
on  their  watches  and  other  ship's  duty,  while  they 
fly,  or  creep,  at  the  will  of  the  winds  for  weeks  to 
reach  a  port  of  succor. 

The  Cyane  was  quarantined ;  but  the  fever  not 
abating,  she  was  sent  on  a  voyage  to  Sitka,  in  order 
to  freeze  it  out,  which  was  happily  accomplished. 


1,1 


il. 


CHAPTER    XIX. 

Monterey— Whale  Fishing  in  the  Hay— A  Dance  on  iho  Qnarter-decli— 
"Brealidown"  at  Sea— Frencli  Fleet  at  Mazatlun— Our  Snarloyow— He 
greets  an  Admiral— Visit  of  Gen.  Martinez— Duwn  to  Acapulco. 

|E  went  to  sea  again  in  March,  carrying  the 
I  flag  of  Admiral  H.  K.  Thatcher.  After 
F»  passing  the  Golden  Gate  our  prow  was  once 
more  turned  southward,  to  traverse  again  the  long 
reach  of  ocean  to  Cape  San  Lucas,  over  which  we 
had  gone  so  often. 

A  day  from  San  Francisco  brought  us  to  Monte- 
rey, which  was  formerly  the  capital  of  California,  in 
the  days  of  Spanish  and  ]Mexican  rule,  and  noted  la- 
ter, as  being  the  scene  (»f  many  important  events  in 
the  history  of  the  State.  The  situation  is  fine,  on  a 
beautiful  bay  between  Point  Pinos  on  the  south  and 
Point  Alio  Nuevo  on  the  north.  The  Presidio,  with 
its  -tall  flag-staff,  the  low  Avhite  houses,  and  the  mission 
building  in  the  di  stance,  present,  I  suppose,  pretty 
much  the  same  appearance  as  formerly,  making  al- 
lowance of  course  for  departed  a<1  vantages  and  the 
wear  and  tear  of  time.  The  discovery  of  gold  in 
other  parts  of  California  must  have  been  a  heavy 
stroke  to  Monterey ;  but  she  docs  not  seem  to  take  it 
much  to  heart,  as  she  sit.-  there  smiling  a  welcome  to 
her  placid  harbor,  as  if  all  fortunes  were  the  same. 
Many  a  town  in  our  northern,  or  eastern  States,  with 


MONTEREY. 


147 


the  same  disappointments,  would  have  moped  and 
put  on  the  mourning  badges  of  dilapidated  streets 
and  deserted  houses.  But  not  so  here.  Perhaps 
there  is  in  the  climate — which  it  is  said  Italy  does 
not  surpass — something  that  soothes  the  unfortunate 
into  even  contentment,  while  other  le?s  genial  eliiiies 
wear  and  worry  the  victims  of  calamity. 

We  noticed  the  works  for  trying  out  whale  oil,  not 
far  from  the  Presidio.  When  the  whales  come  on 
the  coast,  as  they  are  in  the  habit  of  doing  in  the 
spring  of  the  year,  they  are  captured  by  boats,  towed 
close  in  shore  at  high  tide,  and  cut  up  while  the  tide 
is  out,  Avhich  leaves  them  on  the  beach.  At  high 
water  again,  what  is  left  of  the  carcass  is  towed  off 
Point  Pinos  and  left  to  the  mercy  of  the  waves. 
Sometimes  several  whales  are  on  hands  at  once,  and 
the  business  brisk  as  we  observed.  The  smell  of  the 
dead  whales  was  very  offensive,  even  at  a  consider- 
able distance,  giving  us  a  fa'nt  idea  of  what  whale- 
men must  endure  aboard  their  ships. 

Before  we  left  Monterey  a  number  of  ladies  and 
gentlemen  from  tiie  town  came  aboard,  and  a  dance 
was  had  on  the  (jiuirter  deck.  As  flagship  we  had  a 
good  band  of  musicians,  and  they  furnished  the  mu- 
sic. I  noticed  that  all  our  visitors  from  shore,  of 
both  sexes,  had  good  com})lexions,  were  fresh,  buoy- 
ant, and  overflowing  with  the  life  and  animation  they 
breathe  from  their  wholesome  atmosphere. 

Leaving  Monterey  and  [proceeding  on  our  way^ 
we  had  fine  weather  and  a  (juiet  sea.  The  daily  and 
nightly  performances    of    i>ur  band    enlivened   the 


H 


$ 


1'48 


DANCES — MAZATLAN. 


trip.  A  string  band  was  organized,  and  dancing 
lessons  were  every  evening  given  on  the  forecastle. 
The  decks  were  illuminated  for  the  performan«es  ; 
and  the  sailors  took  part  in  these  proceedings  with 
such  enthusiasm,  that  the  lessons  degenerated  into 
grand  routs  of  obstreperous  gaiety.  The  rules  of 
the  graceful  art  were  interpreted  by  each  one  accord- 
ing to  his  own  individual  and  national  predilections. 
The  combinations  of  Virginia  ''  break  downs,"  club 
•dances,  fandangos,  boleros,  schottishes,  waltzes,  ifec, 
that  were  extemporized  during  this  cruise,  must  have 
required  energy  and  exertion  more  than  sufficient  to 
^ail  and  work  a  man-of-war  for  a  year. 

Ten  days  after  leaving  Monterey  we  arrived  at 
Mazatlan.  The  Victoire  flagshii^  of  the  French  Ad- 
miral and  a  small  fleet  under  his  command  were 
here.  The  state  of  affairs  between  the  forces  in  the 
town  and  the  Liberals  in  the  vicinity,  was  pretty 
much  the  same  as  during  our  last  visit.  The 
Frenchmen  were  busy  with  boats  and  diving  appa- 
ratus, off'  the  Dog's  head  promontory,  getting  up 
from  the  bottom,  articles  from  one  of  their  vessels 
which  had  been  wrecked  and  sunk  there  some  time 
previously. 

The  French  Admiral  came  aboard  one  day,  to  pay 
his  respects  in  the  cabin.  What  grave  matters  of 
state  were  discussed  there  between  the  two  war-worn 
veterans,  I  do  not  know.  An  incident  of  his  visit 
however  I  remember,  which  mav  be  related  as  an  in- 
stance  of  French  politeness.  8orae  time  previously 
one  of  the  men  had   somewhere   found  a  poor,  ill- 


SNARLEYOW. 


149 


shaped,  distressed  lookiog  cur  that  might  have  sat  or 
stood  for  the  portrait  of  Maryatt's  Suarleyow.  He 
certainly  had  all  the  characteristics  of  poverty, 
famine  and  dejection.  Kicked  and  cuffed  by  gruff 
sailors  and  boatswains'  mates,  he  led  a  chequered  life 
aboard ;  and  though  always  on  the  lookout  for  a 
kind  word  from  any  one,  he  was  geaerally  sadly  dis- 
appointed. He  was  so  mangy  and  unkempt  geuer- 
ally,  that  his  presence  on  the  quarter-deck  would 
have  been  considered  a  sort  of  desecration ;  and  he 
was  kept  well  forward  on  the  forecastle  by  his  owner. 
AVhen  the  French  Admiral  came  up  the  side,  Snarle- 
yow  happened  to  be  loafing  unnoticed  near  the  gang- 
way. Perhaps  he  had  mistaken  the  shrill  call  of  the 
boatswain's  whistle  for  the  side  boys,  as  an  urgent 
request  for  his  presence.  The  iittle,  dried  up,  one- 
legged  Admiral  stumped  aboard  in  fine  spirits.  In 
a  cheery  voice  he  greeted  the  Captain  and  officers, 
who  waited  to  conduct  him  in  state  to  the  cabin.  He 
noticed  everything,  and  was  practicing  his  English 
with  great  satisfaction  when  the  dog,  attracted  per- 
haps by  the  pleasant  tones  of  his  voice,  rushed  up  to 
him  with  every  demonstration  of  delight  and  affec- 
tion, utterly  regardless  of  those  dignified  ceremonies 
required  in  greeting  so  honorable  a  personage.  The 
Admiral,  possibly  thinking  this  affectionate  creature 
was  the  Captain's  favorite  canine,  stooped  down  and 
patted  him  on  the  head.  "Fine  dog!"  said  he,  "fine 
dog,  zis !  Capitaine,  is  he  your  propri-e-tay  ?"  There 
was  a  smile  fore  and  aft,  but  broadest  in  the  fore- 
castle. 


i-  .  i 


u 


150 


GENERAL    MARTINEZ, 


After  tarrying  two  days  in  the  harbor  of  Mazatkm, 
•we  left  and  went  to  Guaymas  for  a  brief  stay. 
While  here  Gen.  Martinez  with  a  large  staff  of  offi- 
cers, and  a  brass  band,  came  aboard  on  a  visit  of 
ceremony.  In  conversation  with  one  of  these  re- 
doubtable warriors,  I  was  given  to  understand  that 
this  general  was  muy  valoroso,  that  he-  had  waded 
through  many  battles  and  conflicts  to  his  present  em- 
inence and  renown,  and  that  he  had  in  him  the  mate- 
riel for  two  or  three  Washingtons,  besides  several 
Napoleons  and  Wellingtons  to  boot.  He  had  slaugh- 
tered a  prodigious  number  of  Imperialists  in  the 
field,  and  started  an  indefinite  number  of  grave-yards 
for  the  benefit  of  executed  traidores,  not  to  speak  of 
daring  deeds  too  numerous  to  mention  besides.  How- 
ever that  may  be,  Martinez  was  a  fine  looking  officer 
of  medium  size,  with  agreeable  and  dignified  manners. 
His  figure  and  bearing  indicated  the  energy  and  su- 
periority, which  made  him  a  leader  among  these  fiery, 
untamed,  and  peculiar  specimens  of  humanity. 

Shaping  our  course   southward,  we   again   visited 
La  Paz  and  Mazatlan,  and  touched  at  San  Bias  on 
our  way  along  the  coast.     In  a  few  days  the  white 
sand  beach  below  Cheijuetan  betokened  the  vicinity 
of  the  land-locked  harbor  of  Acapulco,  and  soon  we 
steamed  up  to  our  old  anchorage,  after  an  alisence  of 
thirteen  months.     It  seemed  like  coming  home,  to  see 
again  the  familiar  objects  around  us.     There  were 
the  hills  and  the  signal  stations,  the  cocoa-palm  grove 
and    the  whitewashed  adobe  houses  of    the  sleepy 
town,  just  as  we  had  left  them.     There  was  the  ruined 


•'  1 


ACAPULCO   AGAIN. 


church  tower,  murkiug  the  spot  where  the  cotempor- 
aries  of  Las  Casas  performed  their  devotions.  The 
old  Castillo  de  Santiago  still  sat  iu  sad  dilapidation, 
in  the  same  commanding  position  from  which  for 
more  than  a  century  it  has  looked  out  sea-ward,  as  if 
watching  for  the  return  of  the  gorgeous  galleons  of 
Manilla  that  have  passed  away  with  their  golden 
freight,  like  the  hopes  of  youth,  forever. 


'i 


1 1 


n 


m 


CHAPTER  XX. 

First  Lessonin  Mexican  Military  Discipline— Visit  to  tiie  CitBtiUo  de  San- 
tiago—Rettections— Second  Lessoa  in  Military  Discipline. 

|HE  next  day  after  our  arrival  I  went  ashore. 
I  passed  along  the  streets  so  populous   with 
1@^  shopmen,  traders  and  citizens  during  our  first 
visit,  and  found  them  now  deserted.     The  contrast  of 
the  present  desolation  with  former  prosperity  was  ev- 
erywhere apparent.     I   looked   into  the  tiendas  and 
instead   of   picturesque   life  and    activity  sa,w  bare 
counters  and  empty  shelves.     The  houses  of  the  bet- 
ter class  were  stripped  of  everything  and,  where  not 
occupied  by  the  reckless  soldiery,  tenantless.     In  the 
suburbs  the  houses  had  been    demolished  to  render 
the  defense  easier  and  assaults  more  difficult.     Bar- 
ricades and  rude  earthworks  were  thrown  up  in  vari- 
ous places.     Picket  lines   and  sentries  guarded   the 
outposts. 

Provisions  of  every  kind  were  scarce  and  high 
priced.  The  Imperialist  forces  occupying  the  town, 
and  the  few  remaining  inhabitants,  obtained  their 
supplies  principally  from  other  places  by  way  of  the 
sea. 

I  visited  the  quarters  of  several  of  the  detachments 
of  troops  in  the  town  and  afterward  the  castle.  The 
men  not  on  duty  were  sleeping,  gambling,  or  loafing 
about  with  the  indolence  which  characterizes  the  half 


MEXICAN   80I,I)n:RS. 


153 


I  San- 


ludiau  native.  Their  appearance  was  slovenly,  and 
their  arms  and  accoutrements  uegleeted.  Thcv  have 
not  energy  and  endurance  enough  to  make  good  sol- 
diers. If  no  better  soldiers  than  these  were  era- 
ployed  in  the  defense  of  Mexico  under  Santa  Anna, 
Scott  and  Taylor  gained  their  glory  cheaply.  They 
are  certainly  not  the  kind  of  men  that  Hernan  Cur- 
tez  led  against  the  Aztec  hordes  of  Montezuma. 

The  Castillo  de  Santiago,  in  its  commanding  posi- 
tion, with  its  high  walls  and.deep  moat,  its  old  fash- 
ioned battlements  and  antiquated  arched  entrance 
way,  reminded  me  of  the  descriptions  I  had  read  of 
feudal  castles.  Certainly  the  spirit  of  the  Dark  Ages 
must  have  rested  upon  the  builders  whom  the  pursuit 
of  wealth  had  led  to  these  far  confines  of  the  Aztec 
empire. 

I  was  stopped  at  the  entrance  by  a  sentry  who 
curtly  informed  me  that  I  could  not  pass. 

"Why  not?"  I  asked.' 

"  Orders  are  positive,"  he  replied.  "Nobody  is  al- 
lowed." 

"Call  the  Corporal  of  the  Guard." 

The  cabo  de  guardia  was  called  and  with  no  better 
result.     The  written  orders  could  not  be  disobeyed. 

"Call  the  Sergeant  of  the  Guard." 

The  corporal  went  up  to  a  hammock  swinging  un- 
der the  archway  and  conferred  with  its  ^occupant. 
The  sleepy  sergeant,  not  very  well  pleased  at  being 
disturbed  in  his  siesta,  seemed  disposed^to  order  me 
away  as  an  impertinent  Americano. 

*  ♦  Call  the  Officer  of  the  G  uard." 


m 


154 


VISIT   CASTILLO    DE    SANTIAGO. 


This  was  too  much.  At  the  least  it  would  have  re- 
quired him  to  leave  his  hammock,  So,  rather  than 
undertake  so  great  an  exertion,  he  muttered  **  Pasese" 
and  turned  over  for  another  sleep.  I  passed,  with  a 
new  lesson  in  military  discipline.  During  all  ray 
stay,  I  was  followed  and  closely  watched  by  a  nimble 
youth  in  uniform,  who  would  not  enter  into  conversa- 
tion or  inform  me  of  the  nature  of  his  duties. 

The  interior  of  the  Castillo  was  interesting.  The 
whole  appears  to  havo  been  constructed  after  an  an- 
tiquated model.  Opening  on  the  central  space,  or 
parade  ground,  are  spacious,  vault-like  apartments  in 
the  solid  masonry.  In  these  perhaps  at  times  were 
stored  the  treasures  that  awaited  or  were  received 
from  the  annual  Manilla  Galleon.  Debris  and  dirt 
were  plentifully  distributed  on  every  hand;  and  there 
was  a  pervading  musty  smell  that  suggested  the  bone 
dust  of  the  men  who  had  last  cleaned  off  the  floors 
and  ground. 

I  ascended  to  the  upper  part  and  had  a  fine  view 
of  the  town,  the  harbor,  the  cocoa-palm  grove  and 
the  rugged,  green-clad  hills  beyond.  What  a  place 
this  would  be  to  idle  away  tlie  hour  of  sunset! 
Here,  added  to  the  beauties  of  nature,  are  the  unob- 
trusive associations, of  the  past.  Within  these  walls 
the  hidalgoes  of  a  past  regime  paraded  their  men 
and  performed  their  duties.  From  these  same  battle- 
ments the  soldiers  of  a  once  ^'lorious  nation  watched 
seaward  for  such  foemen  as  Lord  Anson  and  his 
countrymen.  While  the  American  colonies,  in  their 
infancy,  were  struggling  for  existence  in  the  wild  re- 


(.!iii 


CAPTUUED. 


155 


gioiis  of  the  north,  tlie  banner  of  Santiago,  from  these 
■walls,  flout(!d  the  warm  breezes  of  this  sunny  clime, 
in  the  pride  and  f^lory  ot  rich  conquests  among  the 
descendants  of  tliose  same  Aztecs,  who,  ages  before 
had  migrated  from  the  less  genial  regions  of  Aztalan. 
Montezuma  and  his  faithful  subjects  were  no  more, 
and  oblivion  with  shadows  deeper  than  night  had 
even  then  almost  veiled  their  romantic  history.  And 
now  that  same  oblivion,  as  if  in  recompense,  is  begin- 
ning to  wrap  in  misty  forgetful ness,  the  deeds  of  those 
who  in  the  name  of  religion  so  ruthlessly  effaced  from 
the  records  of  time  the  history  of  a  people  whose 
polity  and  civilization  were  the  unique  production  of 
ages. 

After  leaving  the  fort,  and  while  prowling  about 
in  sailor  style  in  search  of  adventures,  it  occurred  to 
me  to  attempt  a  visit  to  the  cocoa-palm  grove  on  the 
neutral  ground  beyond  the  lines.  By  some  slight 
maneuvering  I  passed  the  sentries  at  the  barricades, 
and  flattered  myself  I  could  easily  pass  the  outposts 
and  then  not  only  visit  the  grove  but  also  the  Liberal 
camp.  I  was  progressing  so  well  that  1  began  to 
think  I  was  already  clear  of  the  lines,  when  unex- 
pectedly, I  encountered  one  of  the  pickets.  He 
challenged  me  savagely,  and  brought  his  piece  to  a 
threatening  position.  He  was  an  ill-looking,  half 
Indian  wretch,  whose  only  uniform  consisted  of  a 
straw  hat  and  a  pair  of  cotton  trowsers,  with  the  im- 
age of  some  saint  or  other  hanging  from  his  neck  up- 
on his  naked  breast.  He  intimated  that  I  had  al- 
ready gone  too  far  for  my  own  health  and  personal 


sRi 


i^  il 


'i 


H 


156 


MY   MILITARY   ESCORT. 


safety.  I  tried  cajolery,  but  the  charms  of  my  de- 
fective Spanish  had  no  effect  on  this  wild  militar. 
Generally  I  could  manage  the  sentries,  but  here  was 
one  who  managed  me.  He  positively  refused  to  al- 
low me  to  go  on,  or  go  back.  I  was  captured.  The 
officer  of  the  guard  was  called  and  came  with  a  file 
of  soldiers,  the  counterparts  of  ray  captor.  This 
was  unpleasant,  as  I  was  alone,  some  distance  from 
the  town,  close  upon  the  neutral  ground,  and  taken 
in  the  act  of  attempting  to  pass  out.  Besides,  the 
so.aiers  of  Maximilian  evinced  little  cordiality  for  Los 
Americanos,  and  their  officers  for  good  reasons  still 
less.  I  did  not  know,  but  that  they  might  consider 
it  proper  for  the  safety  and  well-being  of  the  empire^ 
to  take  me  out  and  stand  me  up  blindfolded  for  a 
target,  p"  proceedings  more  summary  than  that  were 
common  enough.  This  and  other  comforting  reflec- 
tions occujiied  my  mind  during  the  time  it  took  to  re- 
lieve the  picket  and  turn  over  their  orders.  I  was 
then,  under  guard,  escorted  back  Avithin  the  lines, 
Avhere  I  was  not  detained.  Had  I  been  in  citizens 
'dress,  and  far  enough  from  the  stars  and  stripes,  I 
should  not  have  escaped  so  easily.  So  ended  my  sec- 
ond lesson  in  Mexican  military  discipline. 


li.i     i 


3i 


I 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Down  theCoast— Gulfof  Fonseca— Volcanoof  Coseguina— La  Union— Visit 
of  General  Alejandro  Oabrero  a;id  PriestH— Snn  .luan  del  Sur— Louis 
and  his  Filibustering  witli  Wallier— Punta  Arenas— Panama  again- 
Yellow  Fuver  and  Cholera— On  Shore— Various  places  in  tlie  Town— 
"Dug  Out"  Voyagers  from  the  Southward— Old  Walls— Oflf  for  Realejo 
Return  Voyage 

"aJlJwiVE  dav!^  of  steam  and  sail  from  Acapulco 
,^|mj  brought  us  to  the  entrance  of  the  Gulfof  Fon- 
?%^!r  seca.  A  long  line  of  volcanoes,  active  and  ex- 
tinct, verge  upon  the  Pacific  coast  of  Central 
America,  and  here,  between  these  two  called  Con- 
chagua  and  Coseguina,  the  sea  breaks  through  the 
line  with  a  lovely  sheet  of  water  to  expbre  the  fertile 
and  beautiful  country  beyond.  In  vain  has  the  ter- 
rible Coseguina  at  different  times,  as  if  enraged  at 
such  presumption,  vomited  forth  deluges  of  ashes 
.and  lava  to  drive  back  the  intruding  sea.  Her  futile 
efforts  have  only  resulted  in  plagues  and  desolation 
to  man,  and  exhaustion  to  herself;  for  the  placid  wa- 
ters, as  they  daily  ebb  and  flow,  gaily  taunt  the  col- 
lapsed mountain  wit'n  sunny  smiling  ripples. 

We  dropped  anchor  at  the  foot  of  the  cone-shaped 
mountain  Couchagua,  which  stands  on  the  left  hand 
side  of  the  entrance.  The  towering  mass  reared  its 
lofty  peak  above  us,  sublimely  indifferent  to  oui'  in- 
.signiticant  barque,  and  made  us  feel  still  smaller  by 
the  comparison. 


ij 


\  J 


¥■1 


158 


LA   UNION — SAN   JUAN. 


The  next  day  after  coming  to  anchor  off  the  moun- 
tain Conchagua,  we  weighed  and  ran  into  the  harbor 
of  La  Union  in  front  of  the  town.  A  few  of  the  offi- 
cers went  ashore,  but  we  forward,  were  under  the  ne- 
cessity of  being  content  with  the  view  from  a  distance. 
From  aboard  La  Union  has  a  picturesque  appear- 
ance ;  the  red  tiled  roofs  among  the  trees,  with  a 
bright  sheet  of  watei'  in  front,  and  a  background  of 
green  hills  make  the  picture. 

Gen.  Alejandro  Caarero  and  others  came  aboard, 
and  in  the  evening  we  had  a  visit  from  some  clerical 
persons  whose  bad  countenances,  and  fat,  beastly  ap- 
pearance were  not  calculated  to  inspire  much  rever- 
ence. No  doubt  they  were  efficient  in  their  sphere, 
for  such  are  the  creatures  who  in  all  lands  and  in  all 
ages  have  fattened  and  flourished  upon  the  abject  su- 
perstitions of  humanity. 

A  day's  run  took  us  to  San  Juan  del  &.ur,  the  Paci- 
fic port  of  the  Central  American  route  to  ( 'alifornia. 
Louis,  one  of  our  meu,  formerly  in  the  service  of  the 
fillibuster  Walker,  claims  to  have  been  at  one  time 
the  commandante  of  this  town  and  harbor,  and  that 
he  received  from  Walker  for  his  services,  two  tracts 
of  confiscated  land  in  this  vicinity.  He  relates 
among  other  apocryphal  matters  that  while  in  com- 
mand of  the  port  he  seized  several  small  vessels 
loaded  with  coffee,  sold  the  cargoes  to  merchants,  and 
'then  made  short  returns  to  Walker.  His  official  and 
military  career,  as  frankly  related  by  himself,  had 
many  varied  fortunes,  and  is  very  entertaining,  being 
at  least,  as  we  knew,  "  founded  on  fact." 


i  I 


PUNTA    ARENAS  — PANAMA. 


159 


of 


Another  day's  run,  and  we  were  off  the  low  shores 
of  Punta  Arenas.  The  regions  round  about  this 
place  produce  oranges,  bananas,  and  other  fruits ; 
yams  in  abundance ;  and  coffee  of  excellent  quality. 
After  supplying  ourselves  with  what  we  needed  of 
these  provisions,  we  proceeded  to  Panama. 

The  Cyaue  had  just  been  compelled  to  leave  that 
place  on  account  of  the  yellow  fever,  which  had  more 
than  doubly  decimated  her  crew.  Notwithstanding 
this,  and  the  fact  that  we  were,  for  a  time  at  least,  ta 
take  her  place,  the  cheerfulness  and  hilarity  of  the 
crew  continued  unabated,  and  the  nightly  routs  were 
still  kept- up.  The  Admiral,  with  great  good  sense, 
permitted  the  men  to  cultivate,  as  much  as  they 
would,  and  in  their  own  way,  that  cheerful  disposition 
which  is  perhaps,  after  all,  the  best  preventive  of  that 
most  dreadful 'of  infectious  diseases. 

On  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  May,  after  more 
than  two  years  absence,  I  again  saw  the  dreary  and 
every  way  undesirable  anchorage  off  Dead  Man's  Is- 
land, in  front  of  Panama.  Very  few  pleasant  associ- 
ations had  ever  in  my  memory  of  the  place  been  con- 
nected with  it;  and  now  the  addition  of  yellow  fever 
to  its  other  disadvantages,  made  it  doubly  disagree- 
able. Only  the  prospect  of  a  short  stay  made  it  en- 
durable. To  most  of  my  shipmates  however,  very 
few  of  whom  had  ever  been  here,  it  had  the  charm  of 
novt-lty. 

On  our  arrival  we  learned  that  the  yellow  fever 
was  abating,  and  that  the  cholera  was  taking  its  place. 

Xot  having  any  cases  of  the  fever  aboard,  our  fear 
of  the  disease  .soon  considerably  diminished,  and  one 


I  I 


1 


:i 


[60 


PERAMBULATIONS. 


day  a  number  of  us  went  on  shore.  We  explored  all 
parts  of  the  place,  churches,  walls,  fortifications  and 
shops.  Monkeys,  parrots  and  priests  were  plentiful, 
and  desirable  lodgings  extremely  scarce.  I  visi<^ed 
the  principal  church,  the  church  of  Santa  Ana,  the 
depot,  and  the  barracks.  A  chain-gang  were  at  work 
in  the  streets  under  a  military  guard.  The  soldiers 
were  attending  to  their  duties,  and  all  the  pretty  sen- 
oritas,  and  some  that  were  not  pretty,  were  deeply 
engaged  in  posting  up  in  their  catechisms.  The  yel- 
low fr  er  had  probably  been  the  cause  of  a  great  "  re- 
vival," for  I  never  saw  so  much  piety  goihg  on  in  any 
Sjpanish  American  town  before. 

In  my  perambulations  I  noticed  lying  on  the  beach 
quite  a  number  of  large  canoes,  of  peculiar  make, 
called  "  dug-outs "  by  the  sailors.  Each  one  was 
formed  from  a  single  tree,  and  some  of  them  of  large 
dimensions.  Some  were  about  forty  feet  in  length, 
and  from  three  to  four  feet  wide,  and  having  the  same 
depth.  Being  too  large  and  cumbersome  for  rowing, 
they  were  furnished  with  masts  and  sails.  One  of 
the  largest  that  I  inspected  was  partly  covered  over, 
and  fitted  in  that  manner  with  a  little  cabin  amid- 
ships, in  which  the  wife  and  children  of  the  more 
than  half  Indian  owner  lived  during  their  voyages. 
The  owner  of  the  craft,  flattered  by  my  interest  in 
his  vessel  and  its  rigging,  gave  me  much  information. 
He  said  he  lived  a  hundred  miles  or  so  down  the 
coast,  in  a  fine,  fertile,  wooded  country,  and  that  he 
brought  produce  and  fruits  to  Panama  to  trade  for 
goods.  He  was  rather  enterprising,  and  had  by  his 
visits  to  Panama,  which  he  considered  the  emporium 


^ 


"  DUGOUT  "  V0YAGER8. 


161 


lall 
Jnd 

ful, 

^ed 

the 

)rk 

lers 


of  the  world,  acquired  some  knowledge  of  men  and 
things.  He  seemed  much  attached  to  his  tropical 
home,  and  praised  its  attractions  with  enthusiasm. 
He  dwelt  on  the  beauty  of  the  dusky  maidens  who 
adorned  their  sylvan  retreats,  and  promised  me  a 
handsome  wife,  if  I  would  come  and  live  in  his  coun- 
try. I  cautioned  him  against  tempting  me  too  much, 
whereupon  he  offered  me  a  passage  in  his  fast  sailing 
''dug-out." 

From  the  size  of  these  canoes  it  is  evident  that 
very  large  forest  trees  abound  to  the  southward  along 
the  shores  of  the  bay. 

During  the  favorable  season  many  of  these  people 
visit  Panama.  They  run  close  in  shore  at  high  tide 
and  discharge  their  cargoes  during  the  ebb,  when 
their  canoes  are  left  lying  on  the  sandy  beach.  They 
procure  gay  colored  fabrics  for  gala  occasions,  and 
such  other  cheap  luxuries  as  are  suited  to  their  half 
savage  ideas  of  comfort  and  enjoyment,  in  their  se- 
cluded and  almost  barbaric  society. 

I  found  that  the  old  walls  around  the  place,  the  ru- 
ined towers  populous  with  l)lack  buzzards,  and  the 
narrow  streets  of  the  compactly  built  town,  were  still 
in  situ ;  but  the  heroes  of  the  revolution  we  left  in  pro- 
gress two  years  before,  had  retired  to  private  life,  or 
otherwise  disappeared  from  the  scene  of  action. 
They  have  so  many  changes  of  government  that  it  is 
enough  to  drive  their  historians,  if  they  have  any,  to 
despair.  Annals  two  years  old  would  seem  to  belong 
to  ancient  history,  if  all  the  revolutions,  eras,  and 
epochs,  announced  in  their  pronunciamento8,  are  to  be 
set  down. 


M 


I 


n^ 


162 


UP   THB   COAST   AGAIN. 


A  feu  clays  after  being  on  shore  I  was  attacked 
suddenly  with  well  marked  symptoms  of  cholera ; 
but  fortunately  I  soon  became  better,  and  gradually 
recovered.  We  were  fortunate  in  not  losing  a  single 
man  from  either  cholera  or  yellow  fever,  though  the 
vessel  which  succeeded  us  here  on  this  station,  like 
the  one  that  preceeded  us,  had  her  crew  badly  demor- 
alized and  thinned  out  by  disease.  We  thus  passed 
unscathed  between  two  fires. 

On  the  21st,  to  the  great  gratification  and  relief 
of  all  hands,  we  hove  up  anchor  and  started  on  our 
return  cruise  northward. 

Our  first  port  after  leaving  Panama  was  Realejo,  a 
place  much  frequented  in  former  times.  It  was  from 
this  port  that  the  immortal  Las  Ca^as,  the  apostle  of 
hvimanitv,  set  sail  on  one  of  his  benevolent  enter- 
prises. 

Our  visit  to  this  place  was  the  occasion  of  a  very 
serious  accident  to  one  of  the  patriotic  natives. 
As  we  had  saluted  their  flag,  they  undertook  to  return 
the  salute  with  an  antiquated  and  rusty  cannon, 
which  it  seems  was  subject  to  the  usual  infirmities 
and  whims  of  old  age;  for  it  took  a  good  part  of  the 
day  to  burn  the  requisite  amount  of  powder.  At 
first  it  required  active  exertions  to  induce  it  to  go  off 
at  all,  and  afterward  it  unaccountably  persisted  in 
going  off  prematruely.  By  one  of  these  unexpected 
discharges  a  gunner  engaged  in  loading  had  his  arms 
and  body  horribly  disfigured. 

Proceeding  on  our  way  to  San  Francisco,  we  called 
at  Acapulco  and  at  San  Pedro,  occupying  near  a 
mouth  on  the  uneventful  return  voyage. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

Recruiting-The  Two  Enemie8-The  Two  Tragedies-Killing  Time-Mike- 
I  -rI  Vdventure-Tl.e  City-Sailor'.  Attempt  to  E.cape-Bnnnns 
of  the  Ship  Blackwall-A  Xurrative  of  Sutlering  and  Horror- Kscape. 

?^0R  about  two  months  from  the  middle  of  July^ 
PJI  we  lay  off  the  foot  of  Pacific  street,  aud  about 
^  half-wav  over  to  Yerba  Buena  Island.  The 
term  of  service  of  many  of  the  crew  having  expired, 
it  was  necessary  to  fill  up  with  new  hands.  Shipping 
a  crew  in  the  legitimate  way  is  slow  work,  and  hence 

our  long  delay. 

Among  the  men  discharged  were  two  whose  names 
I  have  forgotten,  but  whose  hatred  for  each  other  was 
so  great  that  I  shall  not  soon  forget  it.     They  were  both 
rather  past  the  middle  age,  and  neither  was  remark- 
able for  intelligence  or  manly  beauty  ;  in  fact,  they 
each  had  rather  a  hang-dog   look.     How  it  came  ta 
pass,  or  what  produced  in  the  first  place,  the  inveter- 
ate and  passionate  detestation  in  which  each  held  the 
other,  I  could  not  learn,  and  I  have   often  wondered 
that  such  absorbing  hate  could  exist,  apparently  un- 
changed by  time,  between  to  such  beings. 

While  they  remained  aboard,  although  they  otten 
fought,  vet  having  no  more  deadly  weapons  than 
thei'r  fists,  they  could  do  each  other  but  little  harm. 
Their  strength  being  very  eiiually  matched,  these  en- 
counters were  very  severe,  but  the  combatants  were 


1^ 


lip 


164 


TWO   TRAGEDIES. 


generally  separated  before  either  had  acquired  much 
advantage.  They  often  met  on  the  berth  deck  after 
the  hammocks  were  piped  down,  in  order  to  avoid  in- 
terference ;  and  they  would  there  struggle  and  pound 
each  other  almost  in  silence.  Generally,  however,  a 
watchful  master-at-arms  would  find  and  conduct  them, 
liruised  and  bloody,  "  to  the  mast." 

Being  discharged  about  the  same  time,  one  of  them 
set  out  for  the  mines  and  the  other  followed  him 
thither.  I  was  informed  that  they  both  were  armed 
and  that  they  met  with  eager  haste  to  settle  their 
rankling  feud.  One  was  shot,  and  in  a  few  hours  a 
miners'  court  summarily  dispatched  the  murderer 
after  his  enemy  into  Eternity. 

Another  of  the  men  who  was  a  petty  officer,  upon 
being  discharged,  was  joined  by  his  wife  from  the 
east  and  emigrated  to  Washington  Territory.  There 
he  built  himself  a  cabin  and  settled  down,  and  might 
have  been  happy  had  it  not  been,  that  for  some  cause, 
lie  became  exceedingly  jealous  of  his  wife.  One  day 
a  neighbor,  alarmed  by  the  report  of  a  gun,  hastened 
to  his  house,  and  found  the  dead  body  of  the  woman 
stretched  in  her  blood  upon  the  floor,  and  the  dis- 
tracted man,  with  an  empty  shot  gun  by  his  side,  ex- 
hibiting every  sign  of  grief  and  despair.  He  was 
arrested  and  committed  to  await  a  trial  which  never 
came  on  ;  for  an  infiriated  mob  broke  open  the  rude 
jail,  dragged  him  out,  and  from  the  limb  of  a  tree 
launched  him  into  the  presence  of  the  Universal 
Judge. 

Our  prolonged  state  of  inactivity  while  waiting  to 


h  • 


MIKE   AND   THE   LOOKING-GLASS. 


165 


3r,  a 


complete  the  crew,  gave  us  a  great  deal  of  leisure 
time ;  and  this  for  some  of  the  men  was  a  difficult 
matter  to  dispose  of.  Those  who  did  not  read,  or 
play  chequers  or  chess,  were  at  a  loss  for  occupation. 
Cards  are  a  contraband  article  and  prohibited  aboard 
all  our  vessels  of  war ;  so  that  there  was  no  chance 
for  either  euchre,  "poker,"  or  "  sevenup."  Had  it 
been  in  the  somniferous  tropics,  these  idle  fellows 
might  have  spent  the  time  in  sleep ;  but  here  in  this 
bracing  atmosphere  sleeping  in  day  time  is  not  so 
easy.  Frequently  parties  of  the  men  were  allowed  to 
go  ashore,  and  the  relation  of  their  adventures  on 
their  return  was  a  source  of  interest  and  amusement 
to  those  who  remained. 

An  incident  happened  which  became  a  standing 

jest:     Mike  C ,  an  Irish  man  not  loug  from  the 

vales  of  Erin,  who  had  a  remarkably  red,  bulbous  nose 
one  day  went  ashore  with  his  companions.  Cruising 
about  among  the  saloons,  they  had  got  "several  sheets 
in  the  wind"  when  they  brought  up  at  a  fine  bar-room, 
furnished  with  a  large,  upright  looking  glass.  While 
waiting  to  be  served  here,  Mike  happened  to  see  his 
own  awkward  person  reflected  in  the  glass,  and  think- 
ing it  some  one  in  another  room  he  rushed  toward  it, 
remarking  as  he  did  so,  "Be  jabers!  there  is  an 
Oirishman  in  that  other  room  looks  like  me.  I'll  go 
and  spake  — "  just  then  he  struck  the  glass  and 
broke  it.  Mike  was  arrested  and  had  to  pay  well  for 
his  sociability. 

San  Francisco  in  1867    was  vastly  different  from 
the  same  place    ten  or  fifteen  years  before.     Still 


!  n 


16G 


SAN    FRANCISCO. 


w 


there  is  no  crime  known  to  the  decalogue  that  was 
not  practiced.  Murderers  and  other  criminals  at 
large,  who  had  by  the  weight  of  gold  broken  through 
the  cobwebs  of  law,  were  the  lions  who  on  Montgom- 
ery street,  attracted  the  admiring  gaze  of  the  baser 
^ort.  Several  such  were  pointed  out  to  me,  whose 
deeds  were  common  fame ;  but  no  page  of  mine  shall 
add  to  their  notoriety.    • 

The  What  Cheer  House  was  a  rendezvous  of  all 

*  • 

•classes.  It  was  an  inn  on  an  immense  scale,  and  its 
name  was  a  house-hold  word  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 
There  was  connected  with  it  a  very  respectable  li- 
brary, with  a  museum  of  ornithological  specimens, 
open  and  free  to  all  who  frequented  the  house. 
Though  the  proportion  of  guests  who  found  time  in 
the  swirl  of  California  life  to  read,  was  small  indeed, 
yet  the  rooms  were  often  crowded. 

While  we  were  at  anchor  two  circumstances  oc- 
cui'red  which  I  will  here  relate  : 

Early  one  morning  a  sailor  was  seen  swimming 
with  the  tide  toward  us,  from  a  large  American  clip- 
per ship,  which  lay  a  quarter  of  a  mile  or  more  from 
us.  Not  being  a  very  good  swimmer  he  toiled  hard, 
and  being  favored  by  the  tide,  at  last  reached  us. 
He  was  taken  up  almost  exhausted.  In  a  few  mo- 
ments it  was  known  throughout  the  ship  that  he  had 
risked  his  life  in  this  manner  to  escape  from  a  ship- 
master and  a  ship  to  which  he  had  been  consigned 
while  under  the  influence  of  the  drugs  so  often  used 
by  shipping  agents.  He  was  an  honest  looking  fel- 
low, of  good  appearance,  and  at  once  gained  our 


BURNING  OF  THE  BLACKWAT.L. 


1G7 


I  I 


sympathy.  The  sailors  immediately  elothecl  him 
from  their  scanty  wardrobes,  and  it  was  hoi)od  that 
our  captain  would  have  power  to  protect  him.  But 
such  was  not  the  case;  for  after  breakfast,  the  mates 
came  aboard  for  him,  and  he  was  given  up.  He  went 
very  dejectedly,  no  doubt  feeling  that  in  his  case  the 
protection  of  the  stars  and  stripes  was  a  most  wretch- 
ed farce. 

A  short  time  after  the  English  ship  Pdackwall,  a 
splendid  vessel  valued  at  fifty  thousand  tioUars,  was 
burned  not  far  from  where  we  lay.  Her  cargo  of 
48,000  bushels  of  wheat  had  just  been  shipped,  lior 
crew  sent  aboard,  and  she  lay  out  in  the  bay  in  read- 
iness to  sail  the  next  day.  Towards  midnight  a  tiro 
was  discovered  in  the  hold,  which  increased  in  spite 
of  every  effort  to  extinguish  it.  The  night  being 
verv  dark  and  the  weather  boisterous,  their  bell  was 
kept  ringing  the  alarm  a  long  time  before  any  one 
heard  it.  At  length  our  watch  on  deck  heard  it  and 
-a  boat  was  immediately  sent  off  to  their  assistance. 
It  soon  returned  for  more  help,  and  several  boats 
were  manned  and  sent ;  but  the  fire  gained  steadily, 
notwithstanding  every  exertion.  A  tug  boat  with  a 
fire  engine  arrived  ffom  the  city,  but  could  not  con- 
trol the  flames.  They  climbed  and  leaped  from  the 
tarred  rigging  into  the  dense  volumes  of  smoke  which 
rose  illumined  above  thera.  The  bay,  the  shipping, 
and  the  city  were  lighted  up  by  the  glare,  and  the 
whole  formed  a  most  magnificent  pictur(3. 

The  ship  and  cargo  were  a  total  loss.  It  was  be- 
lieved that  one  of  her  crew,  who  had  been  drugged 


168 


CRIMES  AUAINST  SAILORS. 


and  shipped  in  that  condition,  had,  upon  coming  to 
his  senses,  set  her  on  fire,  as  the  only  way  of  escaping 
a  long  and  dreary  servitude  to  which  he  had  never 
consented.  The  whole  crew  were  arrested  and  con- 
fined on  shore,  but  managed  somehow  to  make  their 
escape. 

These,  with  many  other  circumstances  which  came 
to  my  knowledge,  convinced  me  that  here  and  at  oth- 
er places  sailors  are  continually  the  victims  of  un- 
scrupulous and  criminal  shipping  agents.  I  learned 
of  numerous  instances  of  their  being  thus  "  shang- 
haied," as  they  terra  it.  Among  others  I  remember 
more  particularly  the  following,  which  I  had  from 
the  sufferer  himself,  and  which  will  illustrate  a  con- 
dition of  affairs  common  tiien,  and  in  all  probability 
now  also ,  for  the  laws  and  human  nature  have  not 
been  much  changed  in  the  brief  time  since : 

A  young  man,  one  of  my  shipmates,  whose  father 
was  an  English  settler  of  good  family  near  Aucklaud,^ 
New  Zealand,  had  been  euicated  at  Sidney,  and  after 
leaving  college  had  served  as  an  officer  in  a  colonial 
regiment  against  the  Mowries.  He  came  to  San 
Francisco  seeking  employment.  He  had  been  reared 
in  comfort  if  not  in  affluence,  and  surrounded  by 
those  home  influences  which  give  to  youth  high  hopes 
of  a  rose-tinted  future.  His  mind  was  well  informed^ 
and  his  sentiments  and  disposition  were  manly  and 
generous;  but  unfortunately  he  was  somewhat  ad- 
dicted to  free  potations,  the  occasion  of  all  his  mis- 
fortunes. Though  strong  and  vigorous,  he  was  too 
young  to  distrust  mankind ;  and  his  confidence  or 


A    KIDNAPPED   SAILOR. 


169 


carelessiK'SS  led  him  to  become  the  victim  of  a  vil- 
lainy unknown  to  him  before. 

After  several  weeks  in  San  Francisco  he  one  day 
made  the  acMjuaintance  of  a  stranger,  who,  according 
to  the  universal  custom  in  California,  invited  him  to 
drink  with  him,  which  he  did.  A  little  while  after 
he  became  drowsy  and  stupid,  and  soon  so  insensible 
that  he  remend)ered  nothing  more.  He  had  no  con- 
sciousness of  any  thing  that  occurred  until  the  next 
day,  when  slowly  recovering  his  overpowered  senses, 
he  was  horrified  to  find  himself  at  sea,  and  aboard  a 
whale  ship  bound  on  a  long  voyage.  Bewildered  by 
the  effects  of  the  deleterious  drugs  that  had  been  ad- 
ministered, sea-sick  and  disgusted  by  nauseous  sur- 
roundings, the  wanton  profanity  of  the  mates  and  the 
beastly  servility  of  a  degraded  crew,  he  could  not 
but  think  it  was  all  a  horrible  dream. 

He  was  aroused  to  the  reality  of  his  situation  by  a 
kick  from  the  mate,  who  ordered  him  to  work,  and 
explained  at  the  same  time,  with  profuse  profanity, 
that  he  had  shipped  for  the  voyage,  and  that  he  must 
.  hold  his  tongue,  or  feel  the  effect  of  a  blow  with  a 
belaying  pin.  His  remonstrances  were  not  listened 
to,  and  his  demand  to  be  put  ashore,  or  sent  back, 
laughed  at.  Filled  with  indignation  and  over- 
whelmed with  shame,  he  knew  not  what  to  do ;  but 
at  length  he  accepted  the  dreary  situation  with  a 
manly  determination  to  make  the  best  of  it  for  the 
present,  and  seek  redress  afterwards. 

Weeks  passed  by  that  seemed  like  years;  they 
grew  to  months,  and  still  he  toiled  on  in  his  disagree- 


i  i' 


170 


MALTREATMENT. 


able  occupation,  waiting  for  an  opportunity  to  escape. 
The  ship  was  kept  at  sea  six  months,  and  then  wat- 
ered at  an  out  of  the  way  place  on  the  Mexican  coast. 
Here  he  had  no  chance  to  get  away,  as  his  intention 
was  suspected. 

Going  to  sea  again,  the  same  dreary  life  was  con- 
tinued. The  crew  were  "hazed"  continually,  and 
most  outrageous  abuses  of  authority  committed  by 
the  captain  and  mates.  They  were  unrelenting  to 
such  men  as  became  obnoxious  to  them  fnmi  any 
cause ;  and  so  the  weary  d«ys  lengtheuetl  into 
weeks  and  mouths,  each  an  age  of  brutality  and  sup- 
pressed rage.  Imagination  without  experience  can- 
not conceive  the  misery  and  discomfort  of  such  a  life; 
for  there  is  uo'tyrrany  so  galling  as  that  in  which  the 
oppressor  and  his  slaves,  hating  and  hated,  are  pent 
up  in  narrow  compass  and  compelled  to  behold  con- 
tinually the  objects  of  their  detestation,  lender  such 
circumstances  their  greasy,  crazy  old  whale  ship  be- 
came a  floating  pandemonium. 

The  instances  of  wanton  maltreatment  of  the  men 
that  continually  occurred,  were  enough  to  keep  their 
blood  in  passionate  heat ;  and  it  was  a  sore  trial  to 
witness  them  without  daring  to  interfere.  At  last, 
however,  the  captive,  in  a  moment  of  indignant  fury, 
felled  the  nnite  to  the  deek  for  .striking,  without  cause, 
an  inoffensive  sailor.  The  captain  in  a  terrible  rage 
had  him  triced  up  and  punished;  and,  not  satisfied 
with  that,  had  him  chained  upright  to  a  stanchion 
below  in  a  confined  space,  in  such  a  position  that  he 
could  not  lie  or  sit  down,     He  wa  i  thus  kept  for  sev- 


o 


O 


THE   ESCAPE. 


171 


eral  weeks,  his  irons  untouched,  on  a  scant  allowance 
of  bread  and  water.  No  attention  was  j)aid  to  his 
sufferings  from  foul  ettiuvia  in  the  cuufined  air  of 
his  filthy  den.  It  was  like  the  agony  of  the  Black 
Hole  of  Calcutta  prolonged.  Weeks  passed.  Hun- 
ger, thirst  and  fever  preyed  on  him.  He  faded  to  a 
mere  skeleton.  His  mind  gave  way  and  temporary 
insanity  seized  him.  In  his  fury  he  howled  and  re- 
viled ;  in  his  calmer  moments  he  begged  and  prayed 
for  death  to  release  him.  His  chains  were  loosened 
so  that  he  could  lie  down,  but  it  was  only  to  prolong 
his  life  and  his  agonies. 

The  ship  at  the  time  was  standing  for  Plonolulu,  to 
refresh  for  a  long  cruise  after  whales  in  the  northern 
seas.  fFust  i)efore  arriving  and  while  at  Honolulu 
he  was  given  more  room  and  attention,  in  order  not 
to  attract  the  notice  of  the  authorities;  but  his 
hands  and  feet  W(!re  still  in  irons.  It  was  the  cap- 
tain's evident  intention  to  finish  him  after  getting 
safely  to  sea,  as  it  was  said  he  had  done  to  others  be- 
fore. Once  a  day  his  feet  irons  were  now  removed, 
and  he  was  also  taken  on  deek.  This  continued  for 
several  weeks  while  at  anchor,  and  his  strength  im- 
proved. One  day  shortly  before  the  ship  was  ready 
to  sail,  having  watched  long  for  an  opportunity,  he 
sprang  overboard  and  swam  for  the  shore.  Being 
near  the  landing  he  was  able  to  reach  it  and  make 
good  his  escape  into  the  town.  A  friendly  kanaka 
with  a  file  released  his  hands  from  the  irons,  and  he 
claimed  the  protectioi  of*  the  American  Consul,  as 
the  vessel  was  an  Americaii  ship. 


172 


JUSTICE  NOT   DONE, 


i|^i:  if 


The  consul  could  do  but  little  for  hira ;  being  either 
unwilling,  or  unable  from  the  nature  of  the  case  and 
the  law,  to  protect  him.  The  captain  demanded 
that  he  should  be  delivered  up,  and  this  would  have 
been  done,  had  not  the  consul's  wife  used  all  her  in- 
fluence for  the  unfortunate  man.  Through  her 
kindly  efforts  he  was  got  out  of  the  way,  and  kept 
from  being  again  consigned  to  Jiis  persecutor.  The 
ship  at  last  sailed  without  him. 

Taking  passage  to  San  Francisco,  to  get  justice  if 
possible,  he  spent  some  time  and  money  consulting 
lawyers,  writing  to  officers  of  the  government,  and 
waiting  replies.  Nothing  however  could  be  done  un- 
til the  return  of  the  captain  who  had  maltreated 
him  ;  and,  as  that  might  not  be  for  several  years,  and 
even  then  he  should  need  a  small  fortune  to  get  faint 
justice  by  law,  he  at  last  gave  it  up  in  despair.  Such 
is  the  usual  redress  the  sailor  gets.  All  the  influ- 
ences of  commerce  and  wealth  seem  to  be  against 
him ;  and  he  gives  himself  up  to  recklessnesss  with 
the  abandon  of  despair. 

I  believe  that  cases  similar  to  this  are  of  very  fre- 
quent occurrence.  There  is  great  immunity  for  cap- 
tains in  the  state  of  the  law,  and  the  hopeless  circum- 
stances in  which  the  great  body  of  sailors  are  placed. 
A  state  of  affairs  exists  in  which  the  sailor  must 
continually  suffer  wrong  and  injustice  from  lawless 
ship  masters;  and  it  seems  as  if  our  merchant  sailors 
have  as  few  rights  that  are  respected,  as  any  class  of 
human  beings.  A  little  of  the  money  wasted  in  cer- 
tain church  enterprises,  would  be  well  applied  if  used 
to  ameliorate  the  condition  of  the  sailor. 


CHAPTER  XXIir. 


The  Last  Cruise- Oood-liy'  to  I'ichiliugiio   Day- 
ward  Bound    lu  at  tin' (nildc'u  ISate. 


-Stormy  Voynirc— Iloine- 


j|Lfl||UR  erew  was  sufficiently  recruited  by  the  niid- 
IvlM  die  of  Septeiuber  to  he  ready  for  sea,  and  on 


f%{^^^  the  19th  we  left  for  the  southern  coast,  calling 
at  Santa  Clara  and  Monterey. 

On  the  29th  we  were  off  Cape  Sad  Lucas,  with  a 
hot  burning  sun  overhead  melting  the  pitch  out  of  our 
seams,  and  the  same  blue,  placid  sea  und'^.r  us.  We 
had  become  so  accustomed  to  the  heat  that  it  seemed 
like  a  normal  condition ;  and  with  awnings  spread 
and  a  gentle  breeze  we  were  satisfied. 

Among  the  new  hands  was  the  young  New  Zeal- 
auder,  whose  exi)ericnce  on  board  a  whale  ship,  has 
been  noticed  in  the  last  chapter.  When  he  first 
came  on  board,  thou<;h  it  was  several  months  after 
his  escape  at  Honolulu,  he  yet  bore  the  marks  of  his 
horrible  treatment.  His  wrists  r.nd  ankles  were  still 
sore  from  the  long  continued  abrasion  of  his  irons, 
and  on  his  body  remained  the  traces  of  his  former 
condition.  His  health  and  spirits  rapidly  improved, 
and  I  found  him  a  pleasant  and  agreeable  watch- 
mate. 

We  remained  until   the  latter  part  of  December, 

cruising  in  the  (Julf,  and  ])assing  and  repassing  from 
port  to  port  in  j)erfoiinance  of  the  duties  of  the  sta- 


oo 


p ) 


174 


GOOD-BYE. 


tion.  We  made  three  trips  to  Guayinas,  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Yaqiii,  called  at  La  Paz  and  and  Pich- 
ilingue  Bay  thrf^e  or  four  times  and  at  Mazathm 
twice.  We  had  the  same  glorious  weather  as  former- 
ly, and  I  slept  on  deck  under  the  clear,  starry  sky 
with  no  thought  of  cold  or  exposure. 

As  this  was  my  last  cruise,  on  our  last  round,  I 
mentally  bade  each  familiar  locality  and  well  re- 
membered land-mark  a  final  adieu.  I  left  the  bare 
islands  of  Guaymas  bay  and  the  barren  hills  around 
the  town  without  regret.  Mazatlan  was  scarcely 
thought  of  as  it  faded  from  my  view,  doubtless  for- 
ever. 

But  Pichelingue  bay,  in  its  solitude  among  the  cac- 
tus covered  sand  hills,  inhabited  only  by  coyotes,  I 
parted  from  more  reluctantly.  It  was  a  secluded 
nook  of  the  ocean,  where  the  limpiil  salt  waves  lov- 
ingly caressed  the  clean  sand  beach,  or  fretted  and 
fumed  on  the  outer  shores,  making'  melancholy  mu- 
sic in  sad,  sweet  tones."  There  we  had  boated,  bathed 
and  rambled.  There  we  had  played  bovish  games, 
gathered  strange  sluUs  on  the  ??ea -shore  c.»:  >ast  time, 
and  like  childrei;  cu^t  them  away  when  liiv^ti  of  them, 
There  wa>  the  suit  iwarsli  with  iN  whei*-  sheet,  and 
the  beach  wail  of  pebbles  and  siuui  east  \i[)  by  the 
sea,  which  kept  the  waves  from  >verfiowii»^  it.  There 
we  had  lived,  present  only  wiiii  nature.  — 


"  The  worlrl  fors^etting,  \iy  die  world  forgot,"  — 

nnder  the  bluest  sky  and  in  the  purest  air  the  earth 
can  boast.     There  was  a    resting  place  from  all  the 


m 


HOMEWARD    BOUND. 


175 


cares  of  life — a  paiJulLso  for  the  idler,  or  the  toil  ex- 
hausted, where  tliere  was  nothing  to  suggest  (lic 
hurly-burly  aud  hustle  of  life's  struggle.  One 
might  lie  under  the  awuiiigs  and  be  lulled  to  refresh- 
ing repose  by  the  sound  of  the  distant  surge,  wiiieh 
came  to  you  like  the  faint  echoes  of  life's  turmoil  in 
the  far  off  world  left  behind. 

It  was  the  middle  of  Decend)er  when  we  bade  good 
bye  to  I'ichilingue  Biiy,  but  there  was  nothing  to  re- 
mind us  of  our  northern  winter.  After  coaling  ship 
we  took  a  final  romp  on  the  sand  biadi  and  made  a 
last  assault  on  the  huge,  soft  cactuses,  which  we  were 
wont  to  batter  down  with  the  primitive  artillery  of 
smooth  stones  from  the  beach. 

On  the  '21st  we  were  out  of  the  (Julf  and  on  our 
way  northward.  The  clear  skies  sniilevl  u|»on  uh  aud 
the  lazy,  limpid  sui^ges  sang  a  low  .M»ng  of  invitation 
to  remain,  but  we  were  homeward  bound.  It  mat- 
tered not  thai  Rnvas  awaih^i  vmr  i\tiiiii)g,  at  Point 
Conception,  with  all  ?he  po%v^  of  tlu»  <«kinds,  to  smite 
us  and  drive  us  Ivack  t\vm  his  wintry  dominions.  Ft 
!iiattered  not  that  :«ll  the  s\\\  beyond  roju^^l  and 
howled  in  agony  uudor  his  tyninny,  and  thi>  wn\c:- 
fought  and  stiiiggled,  aixi  groauinl  evvrywhere  o«  the 
fn>tt(si  and  foaming  waste.  \Vh»l  is  all  that  to  the 
waBM'k'rer  homeward  bouml  ?  (renuU  skns  aixl  the 
faivi.'st  lands  kvse  tliKHr  chain«»s  ;  for  there  is  no  j>ara- 
dise  on  earth  but  home,  l^e  <iangers  that  thivat*  n 
on  the  way  are  disregarded,  and  with  an  enthusitism 
that  conquers  time  and  distance  the  wayfarer  returns 
to  the  land  of  his  birth.  . 


170 


IN    AT    THE    GOLDEN   GATE. 


"  Down  all  yards  and  topmasts !"  was  'the  order 
passed,  and  down  they  came  in  pi-eparation  for  the 
passage  of  Point  Conception.  It  blew  a  gale  when 
we  rounded  the  Point,  and  the  sea  ran  very  high. 
8h)wly  steaming  against  wind  and  wave,  with  gloomy 
and  tempestuous  weather,  we  fought  our  way  north- 
ward, (/oming  in  sight  of  the  Gohlen  Gate,  we  saw 
an  unfortunate  banjue  drifting  helplessly  with  an- 
chors down  upon  the  shoals  outside.  She  became  a 
total  wreck — a  prey  to  the  winds  and  the  waves — 
while  we,  glad  to  escape  the  boisterous'  storms  that 
buffeted  us,  glided  safely  into  the  quiet  bay. 


high. 


